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(Canada Obscura) Orange Julep and The Fast Food Empire That Could’ve Been

(Canada Obscura) Orange Julep and The Fast Food Empire That Could’ve Been

Released Wednesday, 29th May 2024
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(Canada Obscura) Orange Julep and The Fast Food Empire That Could’ve Been

(Canada Obscura) Orange Julep and The Fast Food Empire That Could’ve Been

(Canada Obscura) Orange Julep and The Fast Food Empire That Could’ve Been

(Canada Obscura) Orange Julep and The Fast Food Empire That Could’ve Been

Wednesday, 29th May 2024
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0:14

Today, we have another installment of

0:17

our collaboration with the Atlas Obscura

0:19

podcast, which I very much recommend. You

0:21

should go subscribe right now. This

0:23

is our final story with them for now. And

0:27

it's the most personal of our stories so

0:30

far. I'm once

0:32

again joined by their host, Dylan Thurris. How's

0:34

it going, Dylan? I'm doing great.

0:37

Dylan, what do you know

0:39

about Montreal? You

0:42

know, it's kind of a seems like

0:44

this beautiful magical city. I was there

0:46

many years ago. I

0:48

don't know. I have a fond impression of it. I

0:52

lived in Montreal for almost 10 years. I

0:55

would agree with you. I think it is a magical place.

0:58

It is unlike any other city in Canada. It's

1:00

unlike any other city in North America. The

1:03

architecture is beautiful. It's

1:06

full of music and art and great food.

1:08

There's an incredible mixture of cultures there,

1:10

French and English, but many, many others.

1:12

It's very multicultural. It

1:15

is a city that really has

1:17

its own rhythm, but

1:20

it is also dirty

1:22

and grimy. And when the snow

1:24

melts in the spring, there are

1:26

these piles of sludge all over

1:28

the place. Traffic

1:30

is awful. The infrastructure is

1:33

totally crumbling. It

1:35

has a thriving organized

1:37

crime scene that

1:39

barely even tries to stay hidden.

1:43

And the story that I'm going to tell you

1:45

about today captures

1:47

a lot of that

1:49

spirit, the holistic Montreal spirit. This

1:52

is a story about a place that

1:55

clearly isn't what

1:58

it was meant to be. It is

2:00

full of life and dreams.

2:03

I have no idea what's about to happen. Are we

2:05

doing a Montreal true crime story? What's

2:07

happening? Let's get to the episode.

2:15

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4:33

Jesse what is today story. Today

4:35

I'm going to tell you about a

4:37

giant orange ball. I'm. Not

4:40

talking about some roadside attraction on

4:42

a country highway. This is the

4:44

largest orange sphere in the world.

4:47

And. It has been sitting on

4:49

the side of an expressway. In.

4:51

Downtown Montreal. For.

4:53

Over half a century. To become

4:55

a beloved institution. I think I know

4:57

what you're talking I did you some

5:00

like restaurant has some food thing going

5:02

on right? You're

5:04

correct, it is a restaurant called Zeebo

5:06

Orange Julep and they serve a very

5:09

specific style of regional fast food and

5:11

really only exists in Quebec. If you

5:13

are looking for something to eat in

5:16

Montreal, I mean it's an amazing city

5:18

for food and as lot of high

5:20

end dining. That. Is a very

5:22

good chance that a local will

5:24

instead point you hear to the

5:26

Orange tulip and and at first

5:29

you might think why? You know

5:31

cause you drive down the expressway

5:33

and you find yourself in is

5:35

like kind of depressing area full

5:37

of office buildings between a car

5:39

dealership and a gas station. There

5:41

it is this massive orange surrounded

5:43

by this huge parking lot where

5:45

girls on roller skates used to

5:48

zoom up to your car, take

5:50

your order, roll back. to the

5:52

orange to get your food there alone

5:54

dot there are still picnic tables out

5:56

there in the summer time but like

5:58

in the winter It's pretty desolate. It's

6:00

just a lot of concrete. And

6:04

as you approach this giant orange,

6:06

you get this sense that this used

6:08

to be something bigger. You

6:11

know, it's not unlike the feeling you

6:13

get when you're visiting Chichen Itza or

6:16

other ruins of a once great

6:19

civilization. Yeah, except

6:22

when you walk to the top of Chichen Itza, you

6:24

could order a hot dog and a drink. Exactly.

6:26

In which case, Chichen Itza would be so

6:29

much better. Yes. In

6:31

this case, the founder of the giant

6:33

orange had a vision, a

6:36

vision that was bigger than food, bigger

6:39

than this one structure. Dylan, there

6:41

used to be more of these and

6:43

the founder planned to live

6:46

inside this giant orange with

6:48

his family and

6:50

watch out over his growing quebecuá

6:52

fast food empire. As

6:55

any creator of

6:58

a giant orange restaurant is wont

7:00

to do. What else could

7:02

you do? I'm Jesse

7:05

Brown and this is Canada

7:07

Obscura, a celebration of Canada's

7:09

strange, incredible and wondrous places.

7:12

Orange Julep is the last standing

7:14

testament to one man's dream. A

7:17

dream where instead of golden arches,

7:19

cities around the world would be lit

7:21

up by giant orange balls. The

7:24

story of that dream and that man

7:27

after this. So

7:48

we are back in Montreal today and we're

7:51

heading one of the most iconic landmarks of

7:53

this beautiful city, Gebols Orange Julep. Today we

7:55

are at a landmark. We are at the

7:57

Orange Julep in Montigny. Today

8:00

I'm in Montreal, Canada trying

8:02

out a place called Orange

8:04

Julep or Orange You Lap.

8:07

Dancers. I'm saying that right. He wasn't saw

8:09

that there are signs of videos like that

8:11

on you tube. Of people like

8:14

making this pilgrimage to Orange

8:16

Tulip. And as you

8:18

can hear it has taken on

8:20

this. Mythical. Status

8:22

here. It's. Not just

8:24

an oddity, It's. It's

8:26

become a landmark. And. You.

8:29

Can't really overstate how large this

8:31

looms in the consciousness of Montrealers.

8:34

It's become a part of the

8:36

city's lore. In. A Montreal is

8:38

one of the oldest cities North America. It's

8:40

almost four hundred years old. And.

8:43

It has a lot of

8:45

incredible architecture, has some stunning

8:47

architectural marvel's and fact, but

8:49

there is something. About

8:51

driving past a massive

8:54

orange orb. Often.

8:56

Frosted with snow that that can

8:58

really just burn itself onto your

9:00

consciousness. A lot of it

9:02

is because it is. It holds a lot of mystery for

9:04

people like. How did this get

9:06

their? why is why put it where

9:09

it is on the side of this

9:11

expressway. And. What is inside of

9:13

it? So. I I am

9:15

looking at pictures of this thing right

9:17

now and it is just. It.

9:19

Is really striking. It is so.

9:22

Big. The cars and people

9:24

next to it are miniscule.

9:27

It is just is looming

9:29

big shiny sun. So.

9:32

why is this year what is

9:34

the significance of this enormous or

9:36

and well as a as mentioned

9:38

this restaurant urged you have cells

9:41

can acquire fast food there is

9:43

a distinct style of restaurant in

9:45

quebec called a cast crude which

9:47

just means snack bar and cast

9:50

kreutz serve greasy cheap delicious food

9:52

the fries at a cast crew

9:54

come in a brown paper sack

9:56

that become seats are of in

9:59

time One unique

10:01

caskroot food item that I think you probably

10:03

have heard of is poutine. Yeah. Or poutine.

10:06

Fries with with squeaky cheese curds and

10:08

gravy ladled on top. Caskroots

10:11

serve very specific hot dogs which are

10:13

either called a steamy or a toste

10:16

and you can order your steamy or toste

10:18

Michigan style which means they take like a

10:21

soup ladle and they just pour

10:23

over it like a meaty tomato sauce. This

10:25

does sound good. It does not

10:27

sound like light eating but it

10:30

sounds pretty delicious. I love

10:32

poutine. I have never had a toste,

10:35

a toste, a hot dog with meaty

10:37

tomato sauce on it. This sounds good.

10:39

They're good. They're dotted throughout Quebec. They're

10:41

usually just monsieur operations but they're part

10:43

of the culture and they've just never

10:45

gone major. They never got international. They

10:47

never become corporatized the way that the

10:49

burger joint was. What

10:51

sets this particular caskroot apart is

10:54

a drink that they make which

10:56

they call an orange julep.

11:00

This is a sweet creamy orange

11:02

beverage that tastes

11:05

very much like a creamsicle. What you're describing

11:07

is an orange julep. Dylan that is actually

11:09

a point of some contention. Okay,

11:13

orange juleus opened first in

11:15

1926 but the

11:17

orange julep people claim that their

11:20

drink comes from a

11:22

family recipe that dates back before

11:24

that to 1922. So

11:26

four years before orange juleus you could

11:28

drink an orange julep. Now,

11:31

orange juleus, that American chain

11:33

did not even come to Canada until much

11:35

later. There was also Howell's

11:37

orange julep which came before either of them

11:39

but that's like a soda. It's

11:42

kind of like orange crush. We don't talk

11:44

about that. It doesn't count. Alright, let's just

11:46

put that to the side. Yeah. In any

11:48

case, the story behind the jibo orange julep

11:51

recipe is that oranges at the time were

11:53

expensive. So you

11:55

could cut orange juice with other stuff

11:57

to make it more affordable. So that's a great

11:59

question. This was a drink born of necessity. The

12:02

Jibou family actually patented their recipe. The

12:04

patent explains a bit about the drink.

12:07

Fruit juice in an orange julep

12:09

is deacidified by a mixture of

12:11

skim milk powder and pectin, which

12:13

is then mixed with orange juice concentrate and

12:15

vanilla, patent number 2083584, if you're curious.

12:20

Yeah, good. I'm glad to get the number. Is

12:24

it good? It's very

12:26

sweet, you know? That's

12:29

not without its charms. Some people rave about it. Yeah,

12:32

I mean, I guess I,

12:35

you know, sounds maybe refreshing.

12:38

It's one of these things where even if you don't

12:40

quite like it, you wouldn't want to say anything nasty

12:42

about it. Right. Because

12:44

it means so much to so many people. I

12:48

think it's about the structure. And somebody

12:50

even made a short movie about

12:52

a little girl who goes to the giant orange

12:54

with her uncle on

12:57

the way back from her mother's funeral. That's

13:00

where she finds this Willy Wonka-like

13:02

man inside of the orange named

13:04

Dr. Julep, whose concoction

13:07

can heal the sick. Hey,

13:10

Julia, that's the tube. It

13:13

makes the julep come down from way up

13:15

there. That's where

13:17

Dr. Julep is. Are you

13:21

going to give this one to your mommy? My

13:23

mommy's in the sky. Good

13:27

Lord. Okay,

13:30

I actually, I'm a little concerned

13:32

for everybody. This has gone

13:34

too far. We are in a whole other territory.

13:37

This orange seems to

13:40

have co-opted the minds

13:42

of Montrealers. Okay,

13:44

so they sell the drink. Fine.

13:48

They could have done that out

13:50

of a normal building. They did

13:52

not need to also construct a

13:55

gigantic multi-story orange. I

13:57

Respect the vision. How Did this come to be? It

14:01

starts with a guy named your message about.

14:03

There is very little from the public record

14:05

about disco. His. Family does

14:08

not talk much to the press.

14:10

There is this one picture of

14:12

him that circulates online taken in

14:14

the early eighties. You see him

14:16

with white hair and of salt

14:18

and pepper mustache and up and

14:20

of round button up shirt standing

14:22

very proudly in front of his

14:24

restaurant. But aside from that all

14:26

we really have is his business

14:29

records which tells us that he

14:31

was a dream of or Mast

14:33

starts out by selling his family

14:35

recipe at an amusement park. It's

14:38

a popular enough average that

14:40

he decides to open a

14:42

permanent retail location to sell

14:44

it. And Nineteen Thirty Two.

14:47

It. Sells well during the week by cells

14:49

are slow on weekends, so this is when

14:51

he has an epiphany. He

14:53

opens a new location and this time.

14:56

He has an idea. He builds a

14:58

little structure in the shape of an

15:00

orange. Okay so this is not the

15:03

giant or and you said a little

15:05

structure he builds like got a medium

15:07

sized as a modest or it's and

15:10

such out as a whole lot bigger

15:12

than like a purse. Ah or it's

15:14

a yeah I got. This is like

15:17

a novelty or in shape. Lemonade stands

15:19

exactly. It's the type of thing that

15:21

you might see at a farmer's market

15:23

or a county fair today. But but

15:26

it works and and sales quickly taken.

15:28

So now Air Mass your bow knows

15:30

that he has. He has struggled and

15:33

he decides to expand. He

15:35

ends up with Sistine of these

15:37

little oranges throughout Come Back and

15:40

Ontario. he seems like he is

15:42

well on track to building and

15:44

empire. Until he faces

15:46

of setbacks. What would happen the Second

15:49

World War? Sats. That's a big setback.

15:51

Sam. Yeah, as the at, the economy

15:53

shifts and and most of these little

15:55

oranges god of business except for a

15:58

few that remain in the material. Area.

16:01

Your. Mouse, you both will not throw in

16:03

the towel. He decides it is time

16:05

to do something bold. If he can't

16:07

go, why did he will go back?

16:09

And so in Nineteen Forty seven he

16:11

gets some land at a new location

16:14

on To Carry Boulevard. At

16:16

the time to carry boulevard is

16:18

by to happen in and nightlife

16:20

area in Montreal and that is

16:23

where he builds a new orange.

16:25

Not just any little orange, this

16:27

oranges around forty feet tall. Yeah

16:30

it's the nineteen forties. He makes

16:32

a forty foot tougher ahead of

16:34

time, the right place or a

16:37

shy and for and restaurants. Yeah

16:39

the the early to mid twentieth

16:41

century was was a piece. time

16:44

for these kinds of novelty. Buildings

16:46

does a name for it is cause

16:48

Metics architecture. In the thirties a duck

16:50

former started a store shaped like a

16:53

duck on Long Island. In the fifties

16:55

you have Randy's Donuts and California with

16:57

a with a giant don't at on

16:59

the roof. There are many examples of

17:01

this. I

17:05

love. I love restaurants and

17:07

places like this. There aren't a lot open.

17:09

I've seen a giant.on Long Island. I seen

17:11

a couple of others but I'd just like

17:14

I had to one of these places. They're

17:16

so far I don't know why it stops.

17:18

We need more thing shaped like the thing

17:20

that you get inside the thing. you just

17:23

know what you're getting right away. Just look

17:25

at it with your i'd like I'd it's

17:27

of beer on. Have been there since. This

17:30

is like of it's time. You know this

17:32

is just after the Second World War. People

17:34

have money. Car culture is huge orange tool.

17:36

It becomes this very popular drive in restaurant.

17:39

People park there too, you know, checked each

17:41

other out. check that each other's cars. You

17:43

got the waitresses on roller skates. It's it's

17:45

this spectacular nineteen fifties experience. Super Stylus. Yeah,

17:48

And. This isn't just a solid

17:50

concrete sphere inside the Orange. On

17:53

the top story of Orange Tulip

17:55

is a living area with a

17:57

little window in the front. Hermas

18:00

Huibout plans to live there with

18:03

his family and look

18:05

out onto the city, watching

18:08

the customers pour in and keeping

18:10

watch over his growing

18:12

empire of orange-shaped novelty

18:15

restaurants. The person you're

18:17

describing, I know you did describe,

18:19

he like seemed normal, but I'm

18:22

picturing someone in a fully orange

18:24

suit with an orange top hat

18:26

and all of his family members

18:28

similarly attired. Like, I love

18:30

the totality of his vision. And it

18:32

sounds like Hermas Huibout is doing it.

18:34

He is back on top. Yeah, it's

18:36

all going well. But

18:38

then circumstances intervene.

18:43

Montreal gets the rights to

18:45

hold the World's Fair in

18:47

1967, and

18:49

they decide to demolish the Kerry

18:52

Boulevard and expand

18:54

it in order to make

18:56

way for an expressway. If I'm not mistaken,

18:58

that is the road that Orange Philip is

19:00

on. Yeah, and that means that they're

19:02

going to have to close. But

19:05

once again, Hermas Huibout will not

19:07

be discouraged. He decides that he

19:09

is going to rebuild even bigger

19:12

alongside the new De

19:14

Kerry Expressway. And now

19:17

the orange is three stories high

19:20

and lights up at night. There

19:22

are stories of pilots pointing

19:24

it out as they fly into the

19:27

city. That's how you

19:29

know you're landing in Montreal. I

19:34

should add here, with this

19:36

most recent version of the

19:38

restaurant, this is when they are able to

19:40

claim the title of

19:43

the world's biggest orange sphere.

19:45

A claim that is almost

19:48

true. Man,

19:51

this guy builds three oranges and he can't

19:53

even claim to have the world's biggest orange

19:56

sphere? Why not? I mean,

19:58

this goes alongside the complicated. history

20:00

of deacidified orange sweet

20:03

drinks. The history of large

20:05

oranges over the world is

20:08

also contentious. There's a famous one in

20:10

Australia that is just slightly smaller than

20:12

this one. There's Eli's

20:14

Orange World in Florida, which

20:17

is like around the same

20:19

height as Orange Julep, but

20:22

it's a dome, not a sphere. I

20:25

think we went on a technicality. There

20:27

is a giant helium balloon that you

20:30

can ride in Irvine, California that is

20:33

quite a lot bigger than this orange julep,

20:35

but you can't live in it. No, it's

20:38

filled with gas. It's not a structure. I'm

20:40

sticking by my initial claim. Yeah, all these

20:42

other things. Okay, I don't get a hot

20:44

dog. The balloon doesn't count. Get out of

20:47

here. Get out of here. Okay, so this

20:49

guy's unstoppable. He builds multiple oranges. He builds

20:51

it next to the Express Way, and it

20:54

seems like maybe he's still like on

20:57

a good trajectory. What

20:59

happens to Ermas Jubo? He lives a

21:01

long life. He dies in 1999 at

21:03

the age of 92. The Empire

21:08

never comes to full realization, and

21:11

after his death, the last of

21:13

the remaining orange juleps shuts

21:16

down, with one very

21:19

notable exception. I would assume that is the one

21:21

and the same that we are speaking about today.

21:24

The big one. The biggest orange

21:26

of them all, and it lives on today, nearly 100 years

21:28

after that

21:30

first restaurant opened, and it is still under

21:33

the control of the Jubo family. Why

21:35

was this one able to survive all

21:37

the other ones disappearing or closing down?

21:40

It's hard to know exactly. It probably

21:42

has less to do with whatever

21:44

makes a restaurant successful, and more to

21:47

do with myth, with lore, with just

21:50

how much of an icon this place has become.

21:52

The chain was never meant to be, but

21:55

the orange. How are you gonna destroy the

21:57

last orange? To this day, there are

22:00

tourists and locals posting pictures

22:02

and videos of the Big Orange

22:04

online constantly. Someone recently made a

22:06

Lego version of it which got the attention of the media.

22:09

It took many months. It was a tricky

22:11

problem to figure out how to achieve this

22:13

sort of mashing of the spherical shape and

22:15

the part at the bottom. Jesse,

22:17

I don't want to be rude here,

22:19

but I do feel like it says

22:21

something about Canada when a news story

22:24

is about the Lego version of the

22:26

Big Orange sphere in Montreal. I love

22:28

the pride. There's a lot of local

22:30

pride in this. That story had legs. It ran,

22:32

you know, it was a good week of coverage.

22:35

No, you know, that's

22:37

what makes the news here. If somebody makes a

22:40

Lego version of a hot dog restaurant, it makes

22:42

the news. I think this shows... But people love

22:44

it. People are like, this is just an icon

22:46

of the city. That's it. It is an important

22:49

Montreal landmark. People really care about it. It's

22:52

a lot of nostalgia around the place. It's been there

22:54

for generations now. People grew up

22:56

going there and now they take their kids there. Until

22:59

recently, they did a regular classic car night in

23:01

the summer where people would park their hot rods

23:03

and they would blast all these music and they'd

23:05

eat their hot dogs and drink

23:07

their creamy orange vanilla drink. But the

23:10

truth is that like Montreal itself,

23:13

it's this sort of decaying relic

23:15

of what used to be. What

23:18

do you mean? Well, everything around it has

23:20

been stripped away. The neighborhood, as

23:22

I said, it's no longer this buzzing nightlife

23:24

destination. Can be further from that. The

23:27

fiberglass exterior of Orange

23:29

Hewlip was ruined in some sort of washing

23:31

incident where it got stripped away. So that

23:33

means that it doesn't light up at night

23:35

anymore. The roller

23:38

skating waitresses are long gone. So

23:40

what you got now is this giant parking lot.

23:43

Even the classic car nights stopped since

23:46

the pandemic. The

23:48

orange is suddenly feeling really like

23:50

lonely to me. I

23:52

mean, is it going to keep surviving? It

23:54

survived for such a long time. I mean, do

23:56

you think it will sort of be able to?

23:59

I don't know. the future. I

24:01

don't think it's going anywhere, you know, because despite,

24:05

or maybe because of all of that, it embodies

24:07

Montreal all the much more. It's

24:09

this weird, beautiful anomaly

24:12

that just resists disappearance

24:15

and collapse. And it's still great. It's still

24:18

the first place that I took my kids

24:20

when I first took them to Montreal. You

24:22

know, the creation of this place, this

24:25

bombastic, optimistic gesture of,

24:27

you know, hope in the

24:29

future could only, you know, have

24:31

happened in the mid 20th century, like this Jetsons

24:33

vision. Yeah. And part of

24:35

the appeal today might be

24:37

that it just failed to go anywhere. It did

24:40

not expand. It is not a big worldwide chain.

24:42

It never will be. But when

24:44

you go to Orange Julep, they

24:46

don't seem to know that. Right.

24:49

Or they haven't accepted it. Like, you know,

24:51

the wax coated paper cups that you suck

24:53

your orange drink out of, they're not just

24:55

like generic soda cups, like white cups that

24:57

they bought at Costco. They are branded as

24:59

if this was a major fast food chain.

25:02

They have like jibber orange julep cups with,

25:04

you know, writing on them that promises you

25:06

your drink is made with sun-kissed oranges daily,

25:08

which is the claim that I find very

25:10

dubious. They also claim on the cups that

25:13

this is a drink that will give you

25:15

pep. I love the idea

25:17

of a fast food chain of which there

25:19

is only one in existence that has all the

25:21

branding and the so okay, this

25:23

place is really incredible. I

25:26

do have a lingering question.

25:29

You mentioned that people often ask

25:31

what is inside the orange and

25:33

I have to know like, what

25:36

is inside? Is somebody still living

25:38

in there? Who's

25:40

to say? I mean, look, you

25:44

could go on the internet, and

25:47

you could search on Reddit, and someone

25:49

will tell you that they think they know what's

25:51

inside that orange. You could

25:54

destroy all mystery

25:57

and magic from the world that you live in if that's the

25:59

kind of person I would prefer

26:01

to preserve a sense of

26:03

wonder in my life. Yes, I'm

26:05

with that. I assume Dr. Julep lives

26:07

in there, serving magical drinks out of

26:10

his tube. I guess the

26:12

last question is, what about the family? Did

26:14

the Jibos still dream of

26:16

having a big fast food empire? What do they

26:18

have to say about all of this? Nothing.

26:21

They would not talk to us. And

26:23

I've never seen them there. I've never

26:25

seen anybody at Jibo Orange Julep who

26:27

looks like they are an owner or

26:29

a manager. It's just

26:31

the workers. It's just the Oompa Loompas. They're

26:36

there in their uniforms, taking

26:38

orders, serving hot dogs every

26:40

day. They are deeply

26:42

committed to the dream

26:45

of Air Mass Jibo 25 years after his death,

26:47

like cult

26:51

members who carry on their

26:53

daily rituals well after the passing of

26:55

their leader. It's

26:57

a deeply strange and mystical place

27:01

with decent fries. That

27:13

was Canada Obscura. I hope you

27:15

liked it. If you want to

27:17

hear more stories about weird and wonderful

27:19

places, subscribe to the Atlas Obscura Podcast.

27:22

They co-produced this episode with us. Today's

27:25

show was written and produced by Kevin Sexton.

27:28

The Atlas Obscura team includes

27:30

Dylan Thuris, Doug Baldinger, Chris

27:33

Naka, Camille Stanley, Johanna

27:35

Mayer, and Luce Fleming. Casey

27:38

Holford is Atlas Obscura's technical director,

27:41

and Sam Tindall wrote their theme music.

27:43

Canada Land's production coordinator is André

27:46

Proupe, and our editor-in-chief is Karen

27:48

Puglézé. If you like

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