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statements have not been evaluated by the FDA.

1:07

These products are not intended to diagnose,

1:09

treat, cure, or prevent any disease. In

1:15

1866, a 49-year-old

1:18

French chemist entered a contest.

1:21

The contest was hosted by the French government under

1:24

the leadership of Napoleon III, the nephew of

1:27

Napoleon Bonaparte. Napoleon

1:30

III had started the contest because he

1:32

was worried. He was

1:34

worried that if France was attacked and had

1:36

to go to war, they might run out of

1:38

butter. They

1:42

had a prize that was offered at

1:44

the Paris World Exhibition to create an

1:46

affordable butter substitute. Historian and

1:48

food writer April White, the

1:52

chemist who entered the contest, had

1:54

already won another prize for improving

1:56

a common syphilis drug. He

1:59

then got interested in producers

4:00

to get a license if they wanted to sell

4:02

it. And

4:04

it was being enforced. A

4:07

butter and cheese detective started sneaking into

4:09

grocery stores to see what was going

4:11

on. In

4:13

1911, brothers Joseph and Tony

4:16

Worth were sent to Leavenworth

4:18

Federal Penitentiary in Kansas for

4:20

illegal oleomarjor in commerce. Dairy

4:24

producers were happy. People

4:26

kept buying butter. Why

4:28

did the dairy industry have this

4:31

sway? I mean, forcing

4:33

people to buy a product that was

4:35

maybe more expensive. Well,

4:37

you really had the dairy industry being

4:39

an important economic engine for a lot

4:42

of states in the country. And I'm

4:44

particularly thinking of Wisconsin. And Wisconsin

4:46

at this point is sort of

4:48

transitioning from being a state that

4:51

was largely producing wheat to a

4:53

state that has got lots and

4:55

lots of cows. We

4:57

have a lot of rolling

5:01

hills and rolling fields. Jenny

5:03

Peak is a journalist and a

5:06

lifelong Midwesterner. You

5:08

know, I've always said that my favorite

5:10

state in the country is Wisconsin. Why

5:13

is that? I mean, I've just, I've

5:15

always left Wisconsin. I

5:17

like northern Wisconsin. I even like the middle of

5:19

Wisconsin. Wisconsin

5:22

is the number two nationwide milk

5:24

producer, and we generate 2.44 billion

5:28

pounds of milk per month. I'm

5:30

trying to guess who number one is. Can I try to

5:32

guess? Do you know? Oh, you

5:35

know what? I don't know. Who do you think

5:37

it is? I think it's probably California. Oh,

5:39

I was gonna say Iowa. You

5:42

think California. It

5:44

turns out it is California.

5:48

They overtook Wisconsin as the country's biggest

5:50

dairy producer in the 90s. I

5:53

think it has to just do with how

5:55

big California is. It's not fair to compete

5:57

with that. I bet the quality's not that

5:59

big. That could. Back

6:03

in the late 1800s, Wisconsin,

6:05

along with 23 other states,

6:07

passed laws that restricted the production

6:10

and sale of margarine. There

6:13

was a lot of focus on its color. And

6:16

the idea was you were trying to create

6:18

fake butter if it was yellow. So

6:21

you could not dye your oleo margarine,

6:23

which is white when it is produced.

6:26

You could not dye it yellow. Now,

6:29

the sort of ironic thing about that is

6:31

that butter itself was dyed yellow so that

6:33

it would be a consistent color over the

6:35

course of the year. And

6:38

dairy producers insisted that only butter

6:40

could be yellow. In

6:43

some states, including Vermont and New Hampshire,

6:45

margarine had to be dyed pink to

6:47

be as unappealing as possible. In

6:50

Wisconsin, margarine had to be white.

6:53

One of my favorite kind of

6:56

references to it in an old

6:58

historical paper is that it was

7:00

a corpse-like white, which makes it

7:02

sound very unappealing. And

7:05

it was in an attempt to really

7:08

encourage people to buy butter

7:10

because nobody wanted that

7:12

white substance. Did

7:15

you have margarine or butter growing up

7:17

on your table? As

7:19

dairy farmers, we would not think

7:21

about having margarine anywhere in the

7:23

house. It was blasphemous

7:26

to even talk about it. Jerry

7:29

Aps was born in 1934 and

7:32

worked for 30 years as a professor

7:34

of agriculture at the University of Wisconsin-Madison.

7:37

He grew up on a small farm in

7:39

central Wisconsin. We had about

7:41

15 cows that we milked.

7:44

And of course, we milked those 15 cows

7:46

by hand. My dad and I did the milking twice

7:48

a day for 365 days a year. We

7:53

finally got electricity in 1947. And

7:58

at that time, we got a milking. milking

8:00

machine and doubled the

8:02

herd size and lessened

8:04

the hand milking time.

8:08

Jerry's parents were firmly

8:10

anti-margarine. I don't remember

8:12

knowing anybody, except

8:15

maybe some of our city relatives,

8:17

bless their economic

8:19

hearts, who would

8:21

have margarine. I knew no farmer.

8:25

Did you ever have to go and visit those

8:27

relatives in the city and would they try to

8:29

serve you margarine? No,

8:31

they knew better than that. It

8:33

was sort of like in the same category

8:35

as, you didn't

8:37

discuss religion with your relatives much

8:40

either. And sometimes if you knew

8:42

where they stood on politics, you

8:44

avoided that. And in the same

8:46

way, you avoided

8:49

getting into a big argument about what's

8:51

better, margarine or

8:53

butter. We'll

9:00

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