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excite your inner foodie. The

1:01

history of passion is the production of dress

1:03

media. With.

1:08

An Eight million people in the

1:11

world. We all have one thing

1:13

in common: Everyday we all get

1:15

dressed welcome to Drive function on

1:17

Nasa's Mars a new and when

1:19

or why we were we are

1:21

matches for you. and your health

1:23

is Kathy, Zachary and April Callahan

1:25

dresses nurse. Depending where you are

1:27

in the world, it's highly likely

1:29

that many of you have already

1:31

engaged in one of the summers

1:33

great pleasures trip to the beach.

1:36

And. It's certainly time for that here

1:38

in New York City, Where the weather

1:40

this past weekend was in the mid

1:43

eighties, cas so many of my friends

1:45

decamped, the city packed a cooler. And.

1:47

Headed out to are beautiful stretches of

1:49

sand on the coasts of Brooklyn and

1:51

Long Island. And. I know that

1:54

people don't think of the beach when

1:56

they think of new city but trust

1:58

me friends we have amazing beach! That

2:00

are just a sub way right

2:02

away. So. What about

2:04

you cast? the have any beach plans

2:06

soon. No. Not a lot

2:08

of beach plants. poor plans, yes,

2:11

but no beaches living in New

2:13

Mexico? unfortunately? I'm it's more

2:15

of a vacation destination. Activity

2:18

for me, rather than a ride on

2:20

the subway, you're very lucky. Summer.

2:22

Of a special occasion activity

2:24

and of course special occasions

2:26

frequently open. Up the door for all of

2:28

us to do in. Little bit of fanciful to receive.

2:31

And such was certainly the case

2:33

Historically, at many of the luxurious

2:35

beach hot spots that are patronized

2:37

by the ultra wealthy or him,

2:39

the pursuit a pleasure was their

2:41

only quote. Unquote, Job. Must.

2:44

Be nice. And.

2:47

At the turn of the sensory

2:49

styling unself for soaking up the

2:51

sun was the preoccupation of many

2:53

of the leaves are set to

2:55

frequented the glamorous destinations like the

2:57

Italian Leto and French. Beach towns of

2:59

do feel and beer. It. A

3:02

Langley to cause most onto their own.

3:04

It must be said these resorts would

3:07

have been described as such And a

3:09

primary first quotes. A place

3:11

where colors and neckties don't exist

3:13

or one sleeps after lunch on

3:15

the Sunday dec of a sheltered

3:17

boats were one motors and open

3:19

cars regardless of hot sunlight are

3:21

cool moonlight. Wire Tomato Just cocktails

3:24

of the popular order at the

3:26

bar where one watches serious gambling

3:28

casinos at two in the morning

3:30

and makes foolish beds at an

3:32

amateur boxing mass. Where. It's part

3:34

of the days sport to shut for

3:36

espadrilles and sailors letters and Backstreets shops

3:38

to play bridge in bathing suits on

3:41

the rocks and and team and to

3:43

eat fish dinners at nameless places along.

3:45

The. Shore. I. Just wanna know

3:47

when we're going to displace cast

3:49

exactly and what will we be

3:52

wearing at this fantasy professor? And

3:54

the fact that. Loafer many

3:56

Swanee, a son seekers looking for.

3:58

Comfort with it said. the answer was

4:00

beach pajamas. And

4:04

perhaps a lesser known type of garment today, beach

4:07

pajamas were widely popular, a

4:10

little bit of a pun, during the 1920s and 1930s, defined

4:13

categorization as they evolved from the bedroom to the

4:15

beach and from lounge wear

4:18

to sporting attire. We

4:20

are so pleased to have Janine Daggati and

4:22

Hannah Schiff join us today to

4:24

discuss their recently released book, From

4:27

Sleepwear to Sportswear, how beach

4:29

pajamas reshaped women's fashion. This

4:32

book is an incredible 10 years in

4:34

the making, and the title brings us

4:36

groundbreaking research on beach pajamas and the

4:38

role they played in the gradual acceptance

4:41

of women wearing pants mid-century, as

4:44

well as the evolution of sportswear styles, which

4:46

dominate our very own closets today. There

4:49

is so much to unpack here.

4:51

Janine, Hannah, welcome to Dressed. Ladies,

4:54

thank you so much for joining us on Dressed.

4:57

Thank you for having us. Thanks so much. Yeah,

5:00

and congratulations on the book coming out.

5:02

I remember all those many, many years

5:04

ago when you all had just begun

5:06

your research phase and you came

5:08

to visit us at FIT. So ever since

5:11

then, I've been very patiently waiting for the book to come

5:13

out so we could invite you to come on the show.

5:15

So thank you so much for being here with us today.

5:18

And I think this promises to be

5:20

a very interesting discussion because very little

5:23

scholarly inquiry has

5:25

been directed to beach pajamas

5:28

until now. And as the

5:30

subtitle of your book states, how they

5:32

shaped fashion. So would

5:34

you first like to maybe introduce yourselves, tell

5:36

us a little bit about your background before

5:39

we jump right into our pajama party today?

5:43

Sure. I am the

5:46

owner of Garamond Vintage. I specialize in

5:48

20s to 40s women's fashion, as you

5:50

know. So I've

5:53

been studying beach pajamas since

5:55

I started the store in 2012 and

5:58

I've been collecting them since. Hi,

6:02

I'm Hanu Schiff,

6:04

a fashion historian who also

6:06

works in the fashion and beauty industry,

6:09

long-term vintage collector as well. I

6:12

feel like that's sort of a nice link between the two

6:14

of us that really helped with this project is our

6:17

appreciation and understanding of the physical

6:19

garments and then that

6:21

sort of in reverse to the history. Yeah.

6:24

Yeah. Well, so let's just jump right

6:26

in if we can. I

6:30

think a lot of people obviously know this

6:32

term, but they might not

6:35

necessarily know its history. When

6:37

and where do we first start seeing

6:39

this term being used and what types

6:41

of garments was the

6:44

term initially referring to? Yeah.

6:47

So we first start seeing the use of

6:49

the term pajamas in English around 1800s. And

6:53

it was coined at that time

6:55

from the Hindustani word epijama, which

6:57

roughly translates to leg clothing. In

7:00

1886, in the Hobbs and

7:02

Jobs and Dictionary, which was a

7:04

collection of colloquial Anglo-Indian phrases, they

7:07

described pajamas as a pair of

7:09

loose drawers or trousers worn in

7:12

India by both sexes and varied

7:14

classes. So it's

7:16

linguistically rooted in Anglo-Indian terminology,

7:19

but bifurcated garments have

7:21

been worn by men and women

7:23

for millennia across a variety of

7:25

Middle Eastern and Asian cultures. And

7:28

what wound up happening is as the term

7:30

started really joining English colloquial

7:32

language, these assorted garments which

7:34

had stylistic overlaps like loose

7:36

fit in the hips, drawstring

7:38

waist, they all became conflated

7:41

under this one overarching term, pajama.

7:45

And I mean, your book contains some

7:47

really lovely explanations of the role

7:49

of dress in the spread of orientalism

7:52

as both an artistic and also an

7:54

aesthetic movement. Would you

7:56

guys like to define orientalism for our purposes

7:58

today as a diploma? applies to pajamas,

8:01

and how did pajamas

8:03

function in this Western imagination of

8:05

the, quote, unquote, East? Yeah,

8:09

so conceptually Orientalism sort of

8:11

refers to the observation and

8:13

interpretation of Eastern culture through a

8:15

Western gaze, and we really

8:17

focused on the legacy of the Orientalist art

8:19

movement that was especially prominent in the 19th

8:22

century. It's this

8:24

period when Western artists are taking

8:26

inspiration from Asian and Middle Eastern

8:28

cultures, you see it reflected in

8:30

chinoiserie or japonism, which are more

8:32

specific examples under this umbrella of

8:34

Orientalism. And

8:36

it was especially prominent in French art

8:38

and fashion, which was already considered

8:41

at the fore front of Western

8:43

taste. So these French designers

8:45

and painters are taking elements from

8:47

Eastern culture, including the dress,

8:50

things that become referred to as harem

8:52

pants or harem trousers. And

8:55

because women in the Western world were

8:57

almost never publicly seen at this time

8:59

in bifurcated garments, this image

9:01

of the Eastern woman in pajamas

9:03

and bifurcated trousers became

9:05

conflated with kind of hedonistic

9:07

and passionate and eroticized

9:09

themes that are then commonly depicted

9:12

in art. And then in

9:14

the early 20th century, the Ballet Roost kind

9:16

of capitalized on these associations with performances set

9:18

in Eastern lands, like Scheherazada in

9:20

1910, which featured female dancers,

9:24

harem pants, and the

9:27

popularity of the show leads to this

9:29

vogue for Eastern-themed fancy dress

9:31

parties among wealthy, where these

9:33

pajama-style garments are worn as

9:36

fantastical costumes. Also,

9:39

these celebrated Orientalist

9:42

paintings like Renoir's Odolyx and

9:44

Delacroix's harem scenes and

9:47

the Ballet Roost performances. They

9:49

just familiarized Western audiences with

9:51

a bifurcated silhouette that was seen

9:53

as essential feminine, as opposed

9:56

to one that men, at least in

9:58

the Western cultures, weren't primarily associated

10:00

with already. Mm-hmm. And

10:03

that translates straight into high fashion as

10:05

well. And even Haute Couture in the work of Paul

10:07

Paare, you do do some

10:09

discussion about the joupe coulotte, which if

10:12

you see the joupe coulotte worn, you

10:14

can barely tell that they're even bifurcated

10:16

at all. And it's

10:19

controversial. Yeah, exceptionally

10:21

controversial. When do we

10:23

start to see pajamas entering into

10:25

this Western fashion system? Is

10:27

it the 19 teens? And who

10:29

was wearing them initially? Yeah,

10:32

so pajamas in the more traditional

10:34

sense, sleeping pajamas, that's really when

10:36

they first started entering

10:39

Western society. And it was around

10:41

1870 when these garments were being

10:43

brought back from India by British colonists

10:45

and missionaries. And they

10:47

were worn as men's sleepwear. But at first,

10:50

it was kind of considered a novelty of

10:52

the wealthy and eccentric. But

10:54

eventually, they actually

10:56

fairly quickly replaced popular men's

10:58

night shirts. And then

11:00

in a very short amount of time, everything

11:03

escalates. The men's sleeping pajama becomes a

11:06

lot more tailored instead of having more

11:08

of this traditional Indian aesthetic. It's

11:10

more like a men's suit, what we think

11:12

of as sleeping pajamas, but with a

11:14

few Eastern design elements, the Mandarin collars,

11:17

broad closures. And then

11:19

it very quickly takes off in women's

11:21

wear. And start borrowing pajamas, even sealing

11:23

them from their husbands, their husbands as

11:27

we do. Right, exactly. They're like,

11:29

oh, it's comfortable. I want it. And

11:31

by 1895, pajama sets and patterns were

11:33

being retailed for women in department stores.

11:36

And these designs, again, at first, they started

11:38

off very similar to men's pajamas, and

11:40

then immediately start deviating with these feminine

11:43

details of lace and ribbons and little frills. Got

11:45

to make it our own. And

11:48

this is not necessarily the first time that within

11:51

Euro-American fashion systems that women

11:53

had adopted bifurcated

11:55

garments at all. Right? This

11:58

is just another ride. of

12:00

the bifurcated garment. Do

12:03

you maybe want to situate this particular

12:05

pajama moment of like the

12:07

late 19th century early 20th century

12:09

within a broader history of women

12:11

wearing pants or bloomers? Absolutely

12:14

yeah the pajama craze of the interwar

12:17

period like it really feels like this

12:19

missing link in discourse in the trajectory

12:21

of women in the West wearing pants. First

12:24

started researching this there's so much

12:26

scholarship on bifurcated dress regarding

12:29

bloomerism or you know women in the

12:31

post World War II era adopting pants

12:34

but women didn't start wearing pants

12:36

overnight. It was this very gradual

12:38

process and the vogue for beach

12:40

pajamas really contributed to that.

12:42

So we sort of

12:45

think of beach pajamas succeeding

12:47

where bloomers fail. Bloomerism introduced

12:49

the general public to this

12:51

notion of the trouser woman

12:54

but beach pajamas by

12:57

emerging in this sort of nebulous

12:59

space of the beach where it's less public

13:02

there's less formal rules around what you're supposed

13:04

to be wearing and also emerging

13:06

slightly later than bloomer is in the late 1910s early

13:08

1920s. It's a different

13:11

social climate and it just created

13:13

a set of conditions where

13:15

they were able to slowly spread

13:18

from these marginal spaces and into

13:20

the public sphere and transitioned

13:22

into the post-war pants that we

13:24

hear so much about. I

13:27

also wonder if part of

13:29

that schism between the failure of bloomerism

13:32

and also the rise of the beach

13:34

pajamas has a probably a lot to

13:37

do with politics right because the women

13:39

that were engaging in reform dress and

13:41

the dress reform movement that were wearing

13:43

bloomers there was a very political stance

13:45

attached to the suffrage movement at the

13:48

time. The beach pajamas come in as

13:50

high fashion. Hannah I'm really glad you brought

13:52

up that point about liminality

13:54

in Dress. I Think

13:56

that some of the nuance that existed

13:58

between the late night cute and early

14:01

twentieth century. In. Terms of dressing

14:03

appropriately for the time of day

14:05

has been lost to us today.

14:07

A bets and maybe Janine You

14:09

can speak about this because you

14:11

are and aficionados of this era.

14:14

There. Is this category of address that's called

14:16

there's abby? Yea, or we would call it

14:18

undress. That. Doesn't necessarily

14:21

exist. Today. And

14:23

modern fashion as it did then as like

14:25

a really important category of dress. Or maybe

14:27

it doesn't. Occupy a significant

14:29

place in women's wardrobes like it

14:31

did. Then they will listen call

14:34

it lounge were but it really

14:36

is so much more than that

14:38

historically. To do need you or

14:40

maybe want to speak to this idea of

14:42

limit allergy like in the book You Guys

14:44

Rights, The settings and which beach pajamas could

14:46

be worn were somewhat indefinable. And. I

14:49

think this entire category is that. Yeah.

14:52

I think beach was another so. Unique.

14:55

In that way in most aspects

14:57

their this and women all in

14:59

between Garmin. A straddled. Sleep.

15:02

Were in sportswear public and private

15:04

draw. The. Masculine and

15:07

feminine. Nice and was.

15:10

And. There is a lot of confusion about

15:12

how to categorize them in a silly.

15:15

They. Sort of had this a more

15:17

fuss identity that didn't really fit

15:19

neatly into any single category. And.

15:21

For that reason, they pursued a lot of

15:24

the social rules pertaining to different types of

15:26

dress of time. And the

15:28

extremely specific occasions when women could

15:30

wear pants at the time were

15:33

essentially disrupted by this interloper. And.

15:35

Another, like luminosity is kind of

15:38

an overused term in academia today.

15:40

But. I really think that in

15:42

this case, it's a significant factor to

15:45

consider when you're thinking about why. Beach.

15:47

Pajamas Medicine able to have a

15:49

lasting influence and escape a lot

15:51

of the criticisms as. Previous.

15:54

Bifurcated women's currents of them to.

15:56

And there's an anthropologist called Bjorn

15:58

Thomas and who's written a lot

16:00

about women. Our the entrances social

16:02

and cultural says. And. He

16:04

see as the lemon All it has been

16:06

characterized not just like as a threshold space

16:08

bed. By. A

16:11

disrupt since you the established

16:13

social structure and and uncertainty

16:15

prevailing about to their sin.

16:18

Uncertainty about the future. It's

16:21

notice a state of being in between,

16:23

but the state of being in between

16:25

can impart of revolutionary quality. It could

16:27

be a time of experimentation. Boundary.

16:29

Testing. Nuts. Definitely

16:32

something that happens with. Dressing

16:34

at the seaside. The. Threshold

16:36

space. And. Things are

16:38

a lot more taught. All women had

16:40

more leeway appearing in public wearing pants.

16:43

Whereas. In the street. That was an accepted.

16:46

The. Beach Resorts for uniquely positioned outside

16:48

of the confines of normal everyday

16:50

life. With. Specially and temporally

16:52

see a living the spent like the

16:55

keys and from the real and then

16:57

another factor. Another interesting kind of women

16:59

all factor is the time period that

17:01

beach for some it's first appeared. Which.

17:04

Was in the aftermath of the First World War.

17:06

And. Was such a period arts social

17:09

disruption, A lot of

17:11

societal norms were influx, including established

17:13

gender roles. You. Know it says

17:15

as he mention. Women: During

17:17

the war, for example, we're going to

17:19

work for the first time. And.

17:22

They were working in factories,

17:24

doing agricultural work and farming.

17:27

Typically. Men's jobs. And. For

17:29

those jobs, they are often wearing overalls

17:32

or dungarees. And after

17:34

the war, women were expected to return

17:36

to their farm and domestic occupations, but

17:38

there is so lot of lingering uncertainty.

17:41

And is T said something different in the air?

17:43

There's been a major break in the status quo

17:45

and I think that really helps. All

17:47

these factors of women are The internet

17:49

like being on the precipice a something

17:51

being in this murky sort of. Time.

17:54

Period and setting. Really helps

17:56

with the societal acceptance of be switch on.

17:59

yeah Well, even in this

18:01

bigger category of just pajamas at

18:03

large, because you have mentioned sleeping

18:05

pajamas, and then we've now talked

18:08

about beach pajamas, there were other types as

18:10

well. There's even like

18:12

this social coding of hierarchy of

18:14

formality within this very niche category

18:16

of pajamas. Would one of

18:19

you like to speak about that a little bit? There

18:21

were so types. They

18:23

all had different names. They

18:25

have kitchenette, lounging, porch pajamas,

18:27

gardening pajamas, everything under the

18:30

sun. But the four main

18:32

categories I think are sleeping

18:34

pajamas, beach pajamas, lounging pajamas,

18:37

and evening pajamas, and that's an

18:39

order of increasing formality generally. Typically

18:42

materials were a good indication

18:45

of usage. The more elaborate

18:47

designs and like diaphanous fabrics,

18:50

like satins and lace and silk, those

18:52

were seen more as indoor attire. And

18:55

then more durable materials like denim and linen

18:57

were typically used for outdoor wear. Like

18:59

I said, the reality was far from

19:02

being as cut and dry as that. And

19:04

there was so much crossover in materials and

19:06

design elements between the

19:08

pajama categories. They were ornate

19:11

and embellished pajamas with beading marketed

19:13

as sleepwear. And

19:16

then beach pajamas were sometimes made with

19:18

materials like swans down, velvet, and

19:21

loomé. And here's that

19:23

a lotter beach goer would not consider

19:25

appropriate. There's one photo in

19:28

particular that won't be included that's a model

19:30

at the Lido. She's wearing

19:32

a beach pajama ensemble with tats.

19:34

It's either loomé or sequin encrusted

19:36

trousers. And she's holding

19:39

her coat open and it's entirely fur-lined.

19:42

So we get into the terminology weeds a lot

19:44

more in depth in the text. But essentially, the

19:47

thing that makes beach pajamas so unique

19:49

is that their only true defining characteristic

19:51

is their usage as public outdoor attire.

19:54

Whereas Something like you referred to evening pajamas

19:56

and we're saying evening pajamas, you're not necessarily

19:58

meaning for sleep. These are like

20:00

you if you're throwing had dinner party and

20:03

your home and you are the hostess. This.

20:05

Is something that you might were being a

20:07

little bit more casual as the hostess in

20:09

your own home, but these works. The

20:12

akin to an evening gown and many ways

20:14

right there just. With. Pain and sometimes

20:16

they were kind of. In

20:18

decipher both from in the evening gown they were

20:20

the legs were. So why is. That.

20:22

They look like an evening gown and you only

20:25

kind of noticed someone was moving in a certain

20:27

way. Or the really interesting

20:29

theory that he had anything often call them

20:31

divided skirts. Yeah, So. What

20:34

do we know that these very daring

20:36

darlings to began strolling the source in

20:38

their pajamas the you know when and

20:40

where. Because. And a lot

20:42

of ways, this trend for beach

20:45

pajamas is very much interwoven with

20:47

these narratives of social class. And.

20:49

The leisure lifestyle. Yeah.

20:52

So it's it's incredibly challenging if

20:54

not completely impossible to pinpoint the

20:56

exact moment that pajamas first emerged

20:58

from the blood warren on the

21:00

beach or a little bit unusual

21:02

in that day initiated as an

21:04

anti sash environment for and to

21:07

meet specific sartorial means that women

21:09

had the just. Were. Being

21:11

met by the existing categories address.

21:13

So rather than countries kind of driving this

21:16

new trend and it then trickling down to

21:18

mass market ready to wear. This.

21:20

Was sort of an inversion where the

21:22

fashionable elites brought pajamas onto the beach,

21:24

which prompted designers to take note that

21:27

Will Do know that pajamas were first

21:29

born on beaches in the late nineteenth

21:31

hands, and all evidence points to them

21:33

being debuted at European resorts, with Jovial

21:36

In France being especially likely the point

21:38

of origin. But while the

21:40

session was driven by the people

21:42

the earliest and doctors of Beat

21:44

pajamas were in the upper echelons

21:46

of society is where women who

21:48

works well accustomed to living lives

21:50

of leisure and have any seats

21:52

db them in a pair of

21:55

black silk pajamas that were warning

21:57

Deville and featured in Vogue. In

21:59

Nineteen Nineteen. She sort of them.

22:01

Body is. This. The kind of

22:03

woman who was an early adopter feet

22:05

pajamas and she was prominently seen wearing

22:08

them many pajamas. Supper is at these

22:10

resorts along with other fashionable, bright young

22:12

things in a. Daring. Least

22:14

pajamas. And then the other sins

22:17

of people that were wearing early

22:19

pajamas were again very. Top.

22:22

Tier Society there is a princess.

22:24

A discount, she's who. Apparently we're

22:26

a different pair of pajamas every

22:28

single day of her. months of

22:31

on the case. In it, the Venetian lead

22:33

out. Of the now with the

22:35

from the pajama were Amelia Earhart, she

22:37

harlow so a lot of these society.

22:39

Figures and notable names really help

22:41

her pajamas on than. If

22:43

it if you had enough money. Or.

22:45

Enough social clout. You. Kid.

22:48

This. Obey all us atari on Norm

22:50

is basically yeah, so. And you know, as

22:52

you reference, it would not be long until High

22:55

Fashion decided to co op. This.

22:57

Sub cultural cool of these women.

22:59

Her rang beach pajamas. And.

23:02

And many of these also ultra sheikh

23:04

women who were wearing them for also

23:06

obviously oh Qatar call. So.

23:08

I'm hoping that you could speak to. Some.

23:10

Of the fashion designers you've mentioned Chanel

23:12

already who helped to popularize pajamas and

23:15

beach pajamas specifically. And I say popularize

23:17

because they didn't. As you, as you

23:19

said, they didn't invent this idea, but

23:22

they did help spread it, will I

23:24

think. In terms of

23:26

beach pajamas specifically probably the

23:28

most prominent. Designers would

23:31

be Coco Chanel, Edward

23:34

Mall and you and marine would steer.

23:37

The. At Chanel is especially influential.

23:39

She had been creating. Innovative

23:42

Resort were since the nineteen

23:44

tens she actually sold. Men

23:47

sleeping pajamas she women.

23:49

In Nineteen eighteen for. Paris air

23:51

raids. And. There's

23:54

this widespread belief that she know herself

23:56

invented be for Jammers. We. Feel

23:58

that's up for. Debate. Like she deafening. help

24:01

popularize them early on, both by designing

24:03

and wearing them. Yeah. Well, I mean,

24:05

she was in Dovila as early as

24:07

1914, so that made perfect sense. Right.

24:11

And Malinue was another one of the

24:14

first major designers to feature pajama fashions

24:16

presented specifically as outdoor wear. So his

24:18

1924 collection featured 15 pajama ensembles.

24:24

Oh, wow. A lot

24:26

of those were presented by models walking

24:29

with parasols or

24:31

like these wooden walking sticks similar to those

24:33

that were used on the beach at Dovila

24:35

at the time. And I

24:38

think that the use of those context

24:40

clues to impart a new interpretation of

24:42

a garment that up to that point

24:44

had been seen strictly as indoor wear was

24:47

so clever. And his collection

24:49

really encouraged women to envision

24:52

pajama garments and

24:54

bifurcated dress as garments

24:56

that could be worn outdoors in a public

24:58

setting when the idea was still really new.

25:01

And last but not least, our favorite is

25:03

Mary Nowitzki. We both became pretty obsessed with

25:05

her when we were writing the book. She's

25:07

not really well remembered today. I

25:09

had no idea who this person was. I mean, I

25:11

learned a ton from your book, but this was one

25:14

of the really interesting things as a cook. I want

25:16

to poke around and then see how much this is.

25:18

Anything has been written about her. She was

25:20

so influential in terms of

25:22

bifurcated women's fashions in the

25:24

interwar era. She was specializing

25:26

in pajama fashion specifically and

25:29

sportswear like starting around 1924.

25:31

And I just don't think that other designers

25:33

of the period were creating as many trouser

25:35

fashions for women as she was that early.

25:37

And she really made it her focus. Where

25:40

was she located? She was in France. She was a

25:42

Russian émigré. Yeah, she was. She was based

25:44

in France with her couture house. And

25:50

her background is that she had been a

25:52

Russian princess who then went into

25:54

exile and basically became a nanny

25:57

and raised enough money to open

25:59

her house. Don't get your house. So.

26:01

She was sort of uniquely. Well positioned because she

26:03

was familiar with society type she knew

26:05

had at float in. The World of

26:07

the truth Country A client's house. But.

26:10

She also had this in between period

26:12

where she became a little bit more

26:14

in touch with the needs of like

26:16

the everyday working woman and how that

26:18

would impact clothing. says he will. He

26:20

loved. And bifurcated moments sitting, She

26:22

understood percent just how. How

26:25

influential that was in navigating the world

26:27

And comfort. I mean, this

26:29

sounds like somebody his master's thesis or

26:31

a phd dissertation, or a book in

26:33

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30:05

we haven't really talked about

30:07

what the speech pajama a

30:09

static was. it's very specific.

30:12

So. Ah, how would you describe

30:14

it? And what are some of the

30:16

other types of materials that are being used besides

30:18

some of the a few that you've already mentioned.

30:21

Yet. This is gonna sound contradictory,

30:23

but I silly beach pajamas that

30:26

acts are at once incredibly specific

30:28

and then shockingly broad because they

30:30

were in style from essential the

30:32

beginning of the twenties into the

30:34

into the thirties and a lot

30:36

changed in that window of time.

30:39

So. You're early on, you do see

30:41

a lot of these asian style ribs and

30:43

then things really start transitioning. You get overalls

30:46

and jumpsuits and mix and match separates. you

30:48

get. You. Know everything from

30:50

ponzi silk to the sailor

30:52

suits and pirate ensembles and

30:54

material wise there is just

30:56

in endless availability to the

30:58

fiber contents were largely. Limited to

31:01

the popular fibers of the day. so you're

31:03

seeing. Most. Pajamas and Tottenham

31:05

Lenin Way on snow and

31:07

seasonally Wall. And but in terms

31:09

of textile. Type: There's almost no

31:11

limitation. Everything from. Other

31:14

if is one ad in vogue

31:16

that mentioned he was like see

31:18

green and that silver alumni. Pajamas

31:21

that were intended much as for beach

31:23

where but they said they were waterproof.

31:25

When then you know you have denim

31:27

you have canvas your these really durable

31:29

materials on the flip side, So it

31:32

is sort of interesting how there is

31:34

looking a unique aesthetic to beach pajamas.

31:36

but within that aesthetic there's really endless

31:38

variety there and a mess be said

31:40

that we're not just talking about the

31:43

pants and terms of being persecuted. Oftentimes

31:45

these for sets right are you would

31:47

have the pants you would have maybe

31:49

like a little sleeveless. Blouse or like

31:51

a full blouse. And there's like a jacket that

31:53

goes with it. So these are so beautiful And

31:56

you guys it's so much image research. I actually

31:58

snapped a few photos and like son. Them to

32:00

friends. And I was like cast

32:02

other over feet pajamas are in essence

32:04

it. When. You see others. There's

32:06

so many images. There's. So many

32:08

exciting image as that exists for haven't

32:11

been published that we're so happy to

32:13

to include us. Yeah. And then

32:15

and one is a really interesting things I learned. The

32:17

book is that. Once. This

32:19

vogue for beach pajamas really took hold

32:22

a lot of the is very elite.

32:24

Seaside. Resorts and around the world and must

32:26

be said. How

32:28

they were worn oftentimes varied by

32:31

location. But. Would you tell us a little bit.

32:33

About. This and then and maybe even

32:35

take that one step further And terms

32:37

of these materials that we were just

32:39

speaking about and have a widely they

32:41

varied because the materials or preference to

32:43

seem to be. I

32:46

location as well. Sometimes it. Was

32:48

a combination of location and time period and

32:50

we had a split the book between two

32:52

different time periods and we start with. Nineteen.

32:55

Eighteen Nineteen Twenty Seven. Now

32:58

the time period when. Pajamas.

33:00

Were typically in a three piece. as soon

33:03

as silk they were. More

33:05

associated with the look of sleeping

33:07

and lounging pajamas at the time.

33:10

And the most prominent resort during

33:12

that period with the lido. And

33:15

a lot of of press of the mid

33:17

twenties attributed the origin of the beach bitterness

33:19

had to the Italian Leo which was an

33:21

accurate as we said. That

33:23

it was another most visible early resorts were

33:26

beach pajamas for born and it was even

33:28

or for to as pajama land in the

33:30

press. Or.

33:32

Poor omnipresent citroen was there.

33:35

And the lido had a. Reputation.

33:38

Of being a bit and

33:40

serious exotic locale in vogue.

33:43

For. Example described as in terms like

33:45

a worrying. And Langer S. Magic

33:48

call. A place is a

33:50

potent sorcery. love that and had just

33:52

had air of being with death and

33:54

then adding metics Fantasy Land and a

33:56

lot of the pajamas sales that were

33:58

worn. During. it's heyday in

34:01

the early to mid-20s, featured

34:03

these bright florid colored silks

34:05

and satins, Asian-inspired designs

34:07

like Chinese embroidered pajamas,

34:10

and styles that took influence from the

34:13

sensational performances of the ballet ruse, for

34:15

example, in Orientalist art. And at this

34:17

time when the lido was sort of

34:19

in favor as the premier

34:22

resort destination, the media often used

34:24

this term lido pajama in police

34:27

beach pajamas, and it was

34:29

this catch-all term that technically could be applied

34:31

to any pajamas worn on the beach at

34:34

the time, but it often

34:36

referred to this style that was very

34:38

popular at the lido with very tight-fitted calves, usually

34:41

with little decorative buttons down the

34:43

side. So that was the earlier

34:45

pajama aesthetic, lots of silk, lots

34:47

of exoticism. And

34:50

of course, it must be said that women could

34:52

wear these over their bathing suits, which were below,

34:55

right? These were oftentimes this...

34:58

they served as a beach cover-up, but

35:00

also more than... again,

35:03

we're wandering into those liminal spaces. Yeah,

35:06

I think early on it sort

35:09

of starts as this beach cover-up for the

35:11

new style of swimsuit. It's something that helps

35:13

prevent sunburn. It's something that keeps you warm

35:15

in, you know, cooler

35:17

winter beach climates. But then

35:20

over time, there's definitely this transition

35:22

as beach pajamas become more accepted,

35:24

and it's less of a garment

35:26

that has a specific functional need

35:28

and more of an established fashionable

35:31

trend. And we start to

35:33

see that when we shift into this French

35:35

Riviera era of pajama dressing, which is kind

35:37

of our second half of the book, and

35:39

the Riviera replaced the lido. It's like

35:42

this capital of pajama land. It

35:44

became the next destination for all

35:46

these wealthy resort-goers to really popularize.

35:49

And the atmosphere of the lifestyle there

35:51

was completely different. It was just

35:54

these beautiful days spent yachting. Everything was

35:56

unplanned. It was drives along the coast

35:59

to these... trainee little seaside towns and

36:01

then gambling at three in the road.

36:03

It was a very

36:06

informal laissez-faire kind of energy

36:08

and a lot of often

36:10

tumble day-to-day existence. And

36:12

that's when beach pajamas sort of

36:14

transition. You see more nautical influences.

36:16

You see lots of mix and

36:18

match separates, durable materials, cotton, linen,

36:21

denim. So yeah,

36:23

there's definitely a big

36:25

shift there. Well, and speaking of

36:27

shifts, we even see shifts in

36:29

silhouettes within the beach pajamas themselves.

36:31

Our regular listeners will know that

36:33

I love a good jumpsuit. And

36:35

one of the most delightful parts

36:38

of your book is the

36:40

beach pajama jumpsuits that we begin to see. And

36:42

Janine, so many of these beach pajamas that

36:45

are featured in the book are actually from

36:47

your own collection. So would

36:49

you tell us a little bit about the

36:51

process of acquiring this amazing representation

36:53

of beach pajamas, which you've been doing

36:55

now for more than a decade? They

36:58

mainly date from the 1920s and the 1930s. Well,

37:01

yeah, like I said, through my work, I've

37:03

been buying them, I guess, for the last

37:06

12 years.

37:08

I think I found my first pair in

37:10

2012. It was like, it was at this

37:12

little antique store that doesn't exist anymore. Kind

37:15

of near here, actually, which is not where I lived at the

37:17

time. It was

37:20

called Serendipity Antiques. And I found

37:22

two ponji silica jumpsuits hanging

37:24

in an antique shop. They were both

37:26

a dollar each. I took

37:29

them home. I think

37:31

my heart rate just went up. That

37:34

hasn't happened since. I

37:36

just kept collecting them after that. I just thought they

37:38

were so interesting. They were the oldest pants that I

37:40

owned up to that point. And then

37:43

when we started working on the book, I

37:45

just really feel that as a

37:47

clothing dealer, you just see so many remarkable

37:50

garments that pass through the secondhand market.

37:52

They're interesting. They have a story to

37:54

tell and they're worthy of study. And I

37:57

wanted to include as many non-usium examples.

38:00

examples as we could. These

38:02

were pieces that hadn't already been published for

38:04

study, items in

38:06

private collections that we photographed for the

38:08

book. And I just

38:11

think that the vintage clothing market is

38:13

kind of like an underappreciated resource in

38:15

terms of academic fashion study because whereas

38:17

museums typically focus on designer pieces and

38:19

items that were worn and collected by

38:21

the wealthy. And of course, those

38:23

items are important, but I also wanted to show

38:25

a lot of pieces that were mass produced, homemade

38:28

and worn by regular people.

38:30

And then I was also

38:33

collecting other pieces that spanned medium

38:35

and usage that weren't clothing, just to

38:37

give a broader picture of how beach

38:39

pajamas were viewed and how they were

38:42

used commercially. So for

38:44

example, we had like a jigsaw puzzle

38:46

in there and a

38:48

belt buckle with beach pajama

38:50

girls on it, dinner menus

38:53

and event programs from various

38:55

resorts, invitations, paintings, anonymous

38:58

photos, homemade paper dolls.

39:01

And I think that seeing all those

39:04

things together imparts a bigger picture of

39:06

how beach pajamas functioned within the culture

39:09

beyond just as wearable clothing and how

39:11

pervasive they became in the public consciousness

39:13

of the day. Yeah. And this

39:15

is something as you guys know, I was a curator in

39:17

special collections for many, many years or, this

39:20

is something that the curators in the

39:22

museum and I would talk about quite

39:24

a lot because they would come in

39:26

to do this other contextual research

39:29

that situated the garment that they

39:31

had at the museum, but special

39:34

collections had all the other materials

39:36

that provided the social context into

39:38

it. So I think once you

39:40

compare those two things together, you're

39:42

getting a more complete understanding of

39:44

what that garment meant at that

39:46

time and how it was worn.

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I think another thing that really

41:19

gave rise to at least the

41:21

popularity of beach pajamas to the

41:23

masses has to be fashion photography

41:26

of this era. And there are

41:28

so so many an amazing images

41:30

of not just a pajama ensembles

41:32

in your book, but images of

41:34

women engaging and all types of

41:37

sports. As they begin to

41:39

appear and fashion magazines so. Could.

41:41

One of you any are both of you. Speak

41:43

to the role as fashion photography in

41:45

in the context of the rise of

41:47

sportswear as if it starts to become

41:50

the stand alone category of draft. Yes,

41:53

oh that this is something that particular we

41:56

fascinates me out my i love found photos

41:58

i love satire in general the

42:00

rapid advancements in photo

42:03

technology around the turn of the century

42:05

were such a game changer for the

42:07

fashion industry in general from a design

42:09

standpoint from a just

42:11

visually disseminating style standpoint

42:14

and so you know at this time in the in

42:16

the 20s especially into the 1930s you start

42:19

seeing cameras moving outside of

42:21

the traditional photo studio environment

42:23

and you get cameras

42:26

that can actually capture models in motion

42:28

so that's where speaking to the these

42:30

active images in the book of women

42:32

taking a ball in their beach pajamas

42:35

or using a tennis racket in their

42:37

pajamas and seeing them in motion it's

42:39

presenting the general public with a whole

42:41

new approach to clothing it's no longer

42:43

this static thing that you're just

42:46

stuck in standing there primly or sitting

42:48

you know you can now move and

42:50

engage so I think fashion

42:53

photography kind of helped teach

42:55

people about sportswear and show them

42:58

how it could apply to their lives clothing

43:00

for living in as opposed to

43:02

just for display exactly writing or

43:04

being on display and another another

43:06

key piece of that is this is the

43:09

moment to when women stopped wearing corsets or

43:11

some women stopped wearing corsets so all of these

43:14

things all of these factors are like in the

43:16

mix really yeah it

43:18

honestly it took this really

43:21

rare confluence of elements all of these

43:23

historical precedents all you know it was

43:25

like the right moment for all

43:27

of this to happen and it it does

43:29

make you wonder if somebody had tried wearing

43:32

pajamas on a beach even a decade earlier

43:34

would the climate have been right with the conditions

43:36

have been right for a neck or mitt to

43:39

ultimately succeed well as

43:41

the current starts to happen in the fashion press in the 1930s we

43:43

start to see press

43:46

use the term slacks

43:49

instead of pajamas and I

43:51

think that this in conjunction with the

43:53

parents of more and more sportswear and the

43:55

fashion magazines speaks very broadly

43:58

to this widespread except that

44:00

people start to have when they're

44:03

adopting it into their everyday wardrobes,

44:05

not necessarily special sporting

44:08

occasion wardrobes. Do

44:10

you guys have any thoughts on this? And

44:12

maybe what made

44:14

this important moment happen? The

44:17

terminology is so interesting and evolved

44:19

so much from the late 1910s

44:21

through the 30s, not just in

44:23

terms of slacks and trousers, there's

44:26

very little difference throughout the early 1920s

44:29

between beach pajamas and indoor sleeping

44:31

and lounge pajamas because

44:34

the term could refer to those exact pajamas

44:36

if they were just worn on the beach.

44:39

And the press would say, oh, these are beach

44:41

pajamas. No one knew what to call them. And

44:43

as more pajama styles were designed, especially

44:45

for beach wear, for outdoor wear, particularly

44:49

into the late 20s and early 30s, the

44:51

designs started to

44:53

show innovations in fit, style,

44:55

and material that reflected the

44:57

specific needs of an increasingly

44:59

public and active female consumer

45:01

base. And that included

45:03

typically masculine and sporty styles that really

45:06

wouldn't have been called pajamas and shouldn't.

45:08

Like denim overalls were sold as beach

45:11

pajamas. I just didn't know what else to call

45:13

them. It was so novel at the time. Ooh, their

45:16

increased slack suit would be yachting

45:18

pajamas. So all these disparate

45:20

styles were presented to the public under the

45:23

pajama moniker, which essentially functioned

45:25

as the feminine euphemistic umbrella

45:27

term for any women's pants

45:30

at the time. So

45:32

interestingly, by the later 30s, you see a

45:35

shift in the terminology in the media. And

45:37

these bifurcated styles that had previously

45:40

would have been called pajamas a

45:42

decade earlier, started to be called

45:44

just slacks and trousers. And

45:46

it was right after beach pajamas hit peak

45:48

popularity around the 20s and 30s, and

45:51

the vernacular started to shift. So

45:54

beach pajamas all but disappeared from fashionable vernacular

45:56

by the 40s, but a lot of those

45:58

styles that had first become pajamas. popular as

46:00

beach pajamas were still being worn, they were

46:02

just called something different. And

46:04

there's a historian named Anne-Marie Strathol, who

46:07

we quote in the book, who argues that

46:09

the term trust reform disappeared from common

46:12

parlance at the very moment when

46:14

the goals of that movement became what

46:16

she called naturalized, meaning they

46:19

moved from the marginal to mainstream culture.

46:22

And that's exactly what happened

46:24

with the terminology surrounding beach pajamas.

46:27

They weren't mentioned in the press very much

46:29

after the mid 30s, but that's not because

46:31

they ceased to be relevant. It's because they'd

46:34

become so normalized by that point that

46:36

they were able to transcend these marginal

46:38

categories of beach wear,

46:41

sleepwear, feminized terminology, like

46:43

pajamas, and they just entered a

46:45

new terminology of casual sportswear. It's

46:49

just what's so interesting about the beach

46:51

pajama era is it is this fascinating bubble in

46:53

time when you can watch women's

46:56

pants move from something peripheral to something

46:59

more mainstream. Pajamas

47:02

were always fundamentally pants for

47:04

women, but first they needed

47:06

to be repackaged as something more familiar

47:08

and more feminine and less threatening. One

47:12

of the last sections of your book is

47:14

actually a beginning. It's not the end.

47:16

One of the last sections of your

47:18

book is entitled The Beginnings of American

47:20

Sportswear. That's where this story picks up.

47:24

Beach pajamas trend really blossomed in

47:26

Europe at first. There were these

47:29

playsuits and modular separates. These

47:32

concepts of modular separates and

47:34

playsuits is now often

47:36

so much identified with American

47:38

designers like Claire McCardle or

47:40

Tina Leiser or Caroline Schnur.

47:43

But I'm hoping that you could maybe

47:45

sum up this bigger, broader legacy of

47:48

pajamas and beach pajamas in terms of

47:50

not just what it meant to the

47:52

development of American sportswear in the 1940s,

47:55

but what it really means in the context

47:57

of how we all dress today. This

48:00

was so innovative in their blending of fashion,

48:02

with function, as such a new concept at

48:04

the time. They incorporated

48:07

design elements like wrap

48:09

closures and lacing that

48:11

allowed for an adjustable fit, functional

48:13

elements like pockets and

48:16

the usage of unfussy washable fabrics that were

48:18

typically used in menswear and not used in

48:20

couture. I mean, you could

48:22

be describing the work of Claire McCardell right

48:24

now. Right, exactly. There is an emphasis on

48:27

effortlessness, versatility, wearability in

48:29

beach pajama design. Those

48:31

were the styles that were the most

48:33

chic. And those are

48:35

the same things you think of when you think of

48:38

mid-century American look designs. In beach pajamas were

48:40

also, like you said, from the beginning, it was

48:42

a category of separates. And

48:45

since the early 20s with the pants, the pants

48:47

were often worn with varying tops or just with

48:49

a swimsuit. And through

48:51

that, they implicitly encouraged individuality in a

48:53

self-expression and dress, as well as a

48:56

forward-thinking modular approach to fashion that became

48:58

so associated with American mid-century dress and

49:00

sportswear and is still the basis of

49:03

casual dress today. And

49:06

I think it's so interesting to

49:08

consider the legacy of beach pajamas and how

49:10

they help shape

49:13

Western contemporary dress. Because

49:16

I mean, if anything, we're living in more

49:18

of a pajama age than ever. But

49:21

everybody's just out, okay, time to run to

49:23

the drugstore, grab a gallon of milk in

49:25

your pajamas, you know, working from

49:27

home, Zoom, professional button-down shirt on top,

49:30

pajamas on the bottom. And

49:32

specific pajama silhouettes infiltrated

49:35

fashion and never went

49:37

away. Bell bottoms of the 1960s

49:39

and 70s, that's just flare-leg beach

49:41

pajamas, halter tops, sailor

49:43

pants. These are all things that

49:46

have never really fallen out of

49:48

fashion, but they first entered fashion

49:50

as beach pajama separates. Even

49:54

these specific elements like Trini

49:56

talking about wrap styles that's incorporated

49:58

into a diameter. first-in-bird dress.

50:00

Beach pajamas separate to me, that's

50:03

just a juicy couture tracksuit. Never

50:07

really gone away. And so

50:10

it's really fascinating how pajamas themselves, they

50:12

haven't just been repackaged into various forms

50:14

of casual day wear, but we even

50:16

see them in fashionable dress. A

50:19

really topical example is the recent

50:21

Met Gala. The theme for the

50:23

red carpet was promoted as the Garden of

50:26

Time, but the exhibit itself is called Sleeping

50:28

Beauty's Reawaking Fashion. And

50:30

so many of the attendees did wear

50:33

pajama ensembles on the Met Gala red

50:35

carpet, including one that I really liked

50:37

from Sofia Coppola, that was this beautiful

50:39

shimmery satin, silver satin

50:42

set. So I think it's safe

50:44

to say that pajamas kind of broke out of the

50:46

private sphere and became one of

50:48

the most influential modern garments. Yeah,

50:51

absolutely. And we cannot underscore that

50:54

enough. And that is the big

50:56

takeaway of your book. And

50:58

that's why I was so excited when I was

51:00

reading it. I was like, this is groundbreaking new

51:03

research. Why is why have we not been talking

51:05

about this the entire time? Thank

51:07

you. It's honestly nice to hear somebody else say

51:09

that because I feel like we've spent the last

51:12

close to 10 years saying that to pick

51:14

each other and it's turned into an echo

51:16

chamber. So I'm glad the research is

51:18

impactful that people can get something out of

51:20

this. Yes, yes, yes. Well, thank you for

51:23

the book. Thank you for joining us

51:25

today. Dress listeners, we will of course put

51:27

it on our dress bookshelves and provide a

51:29

link to it and our show notes. But

51:31

ladies, thank you so much for joining

51:34

us. And do either of you have any final

51:36

thoughts? Just thank you so much for

51:38

having us. Thank you. Hannah, Jeanine,

51:40

thank you so much for sharing

51:42

your fascinating research with us all.

51:45

Listeners, if you enjoyed this episode, we promise

51:47

you you're going to want to get your

51:49

hands on this book, which is packed with

51:52

amazing images. And you will find a link

51:54

to purchase Jeanine and Hannah's book in our

51:56

show notes and also on our dress bookshelf

51:58

at bookshop.org forward slash shop for

52:00

slash dress. And April, as you

52:03

know, I've actually been following Janine's

52:05

vintage business, Squaremont's Vintage, for many,

52:07

many years now. I'm always

52:09

in awe at the many exceptionally

52:11

rare, and I'm talking super, super rare,

52:13

and super high quality vintage pieces

52:15

she has in her online store, mostly

52:18

which are early 20th century, so

52:20

like 1920s, 1930s. And

52:23

her store currently includes some spectacular

52:25

examples of, of course, beach

52:28

pajamas. So we'll put a link to her store

52:30

in the show notes so our listeners can check

52:32

them out for themselves, as well as her many,

52:34

many other treasures. Yes, and

52:36

every time I see Janine, I tell her,

52:38

I don't know where you find all these

52:40

amazing things. And

52:43

when her and Hannah started coming in to

52:45

FIT to do research all those many years

52:47

ago, I was very interested to see

52:50

where this project went. And I said at the beginning

52:52

of the episode, I've been like just waiting for the

52:54

books to come out so we could have them on

52:56

the show. And trust me, dress

52:58

listeners, it does not disappoint. This

53:01

is really interesting new research and kind

53:03

of fills in a puzzle piece of

53:06

some missing pieces. And when it comes to the

53:08

development of pants and sportswear that no one had

53:10

ever really truly considered in this way before. So

53:13

if you're a fashion historian, especially, you're

53:15

gonna wanna get your hands on this bit. I

53:18

think that does it for us as big

53:20

dress listeners. May you consider how you will

53:22

style yourself for soaking up the sun next

53:25

time you get dressed. As

53:27

always, we love hearing from you. So if you'd

53:29

like to write to us, you can do so

53:31

by emailing us at hello at dresshistory.com. dresshistory.com

53:34

is of course our website where you

53:36

can keep a breath of all of

53:38

our latest offerings of classes, trips, and

53:40

tours. And classes class,

53:42

What Women Wore to the Revolution,

53:44

part two is now open for

53:46

registration and starts in just

53:48

a few weeks, Cass, on June 23rd. So

53:51

you're gonna wanna sign up now. I don't know if you wanna put

53:53

in a little two words about it or

53:55

not. I'm super excited you can

53:58

find all the information on the website, including. information

54:00

about the free book club that I have

54:02

added to this course offering. So very, very

54:04

excited. As we are excited

54:06

about our upcoming fashion history tour of Paris,

54:08

many of you know the first week sold

54:11

out, so we are really, really close to

54:13

opening a second week. We just need to

54:15

get enough people. So if that

54:17

person is you and you want

54:19

to join us in France in the fall,

54:21

which is going to be absolutely lovely, send

54:23

us an email at hello at dresshistory.com and

54:26

we will put you in touch with our

54:28

travel partners. And

54:30

of course, Dress Listers, you can always reach out

54:32

to us by DM on Instagram at dress underscore

54:34

podcast, which is where we will post lots

54:36

of fun beach pajama imagery this week. If

54:39

you'd like to search for the content specifically related

54:41

to this episode, you can do so by searching

54:43

the hashtag dress370 and dress370. Thank

54:48

you as always for tuning in and

54:50

more dress coming your way on Friday.

54:56

First, the history of fashion is a collection

54:58

of dress videos.