Episode Transcript
Transcripts are displayed as originally observed. Some content, including advertisements may have changed.
Use Ctrl + F to search
0:00
American Giant makes great clothing, sweatshirts,
0:02
jeans, and more right here in
0:04
the U.S. Visit american-giant.com and get
0:06
20% off your first order with
0:09
code STAPLE20. That's 20% off
0:11
your first order at american-giant.com,
0:14
code STAPLE20. No
0:25
matter what tasty choice you make, you'll enjoy
0:27
our everyday low prices. Plus, extra ways to
0:29
save, like digital coupons worth over $600 each
0:32
week. You can
0:34
also save up to $1 off per gallon at
0:36
the pump with fuel points. More
0:38
savings and more inspiring flavors. Dress,
0:46
the history of fashion, is a production of
0:48
Dress Media. With
0:54
over 8 billion people in the world, we all have
0:56
one thing in common. Every day, we
0:58
all get dressed. Welcome
1:00
to Trust, the History of Fashion, a podcast
1:02
that explores the who, what, when of why
1:04
we wear. We are fashion
1:07
historians and your hosts, Cassidy Zachary
1:09
and April Callahan. Dressless
1:12
nurse, today we pick back up
1:14
with our conversation with Dr. Kate
1:16
Annette Hitchcock. Kate is a
1:18
professor emerital of the Wilson College
1:20
of Textiles at North Carolina State
1:22
University and Raleigh, North Carolina. And
1:25
she has also taught at East
1:27
Carolina University, Virginia Tech and Savannah
1:29
College of Art and Design. Earlier
1:32
this week, we aired part one
1:35
of this episode discussing her recently
1:37
released book, The Intersection of Fashion
1:39
and Disability, a historical analysis. The
1:42
book spans more than 500 years
1:44
of how individuals with disabilities
1:46
have navigated the matter of
1:48
clothing, dress, and fashion. And
1:50
in part one, we chatted about the
1:53
public perception of disabilities during the late
1:55
Renaissance and early modern periods and how
1:57
these eras made to measure model of
1:59
clothing. production allowed for customization
2:01
catering to the needs of differently
2:04
abled bodies. We also spoke
2:06
about some of the figures in history with
2:08
disabilities and how their wardrobes factored into
2:10
their daily lives. And
2:13
today Kate joins us again to bring
2:15
us into the 20th century to chat
2:17
about some of the private and governmental
2:19
initiatives which have literally shaped the intersection
2:21
and future of dress and disability. Kate,
2:24
welcome back. Well, it's this point in
2:26
the middle of the 20th century that
2:28
we start to see philanthropic organizations
2:32
and even governmental entities
2:35
get involved in this very conversation that
2:38
we're having right now centering
2:40
around the needs of the
2:42
disabled. Clothing being a basic need
2:44
for all of us. How
2:47
did some of these organizations, whether
2:49
they were private, philanthropies, or governmental
2:51
entities, address
2:53
this topic of dress in
2:56
their initiatives? Yeah,
2:58
Sue, again, I'll point
3:00
to the Second World War as sort of a
3:02
bit of watershed, at least in
3:04
the US. During
3:07
the Second World War, towards the end of the Second World War
3:09
in this country, there was an army
3:12
doctor by the name of Dr. Howard Rusk
3:15
who became known as the father of
3:17
rehabilitation. He set
3:20
up a clinic and institution
3:22
at New York University Medical
3:24
Center, which is now I think
3:26
Langone Health. So he was a real
3:28
pioneer in terms of, again, looking
3:30
at military personnel who were coming
3:32
back from the war
3:35
in general and noticed
3:37
that while they were being
3:39
rehabbed quite well physically, once
3:42
they left in terms of clothing. And
3:45
so what he did was made the great move
3:47
of hiring a woman by
3:49
the name of Helen Cookman who
3:52
was herself disabled. She was
3:54
deaf and she had made
3:56
clothes to try and cover up her
3:58
bulky hearing aids. But she'd
4:00
also been an industrial designer. She designed
4:03
uniforms, working uniforms. And so she had
4:05
a background in the industry. And
4:08
so he set up a clothing
4:11
research foundation within this
4:13
that was just supposed to do a research
4:15
project. That's what it started out as, as
4:17
a research project. Eventually
4:20
what happened with Ms. Cookman was, I
4:22
wish I'd been able, some people in
4:25
history you'd like to go back and talk to. I
4:27
would like to. Your fantasy dinner party guests.
4:30
Yes. They do. I
4:32
think she was a force that enough
4:34
just for me and her to stick
4:36
together, maybe maybe you know, had much
4:38
of a word. But
4:41
she decided, well, a book came
4:43
out of this called Functional Fashions.
4:46
There was a few other personnel on it and
4:49
I write a bit about this in my book.
4:52
But basically she looked at problems
4:55
that, she managed to
4:57
condense issues, not necessarily by disability, but
4:59
by the area of the
5:01
body that was limited in movement. And
5:05
talked about some common solutions that she
5:07
found as she did her big research
5:10
project. Out of
5:12
this, and that book still, I mean, I've got
5:14
a copy of it. It's out of print, but
5:16
you can get it on Etsy and eBay
5:18
and places like that. It's called Functional Fashions.
5:21
It's really the first sort of, it's almost
5:23
like an encyclopedia of this topic. It's not
5:26
a big volume by any
5:28
means, but it does get into some
5:30
really good detail with images and explanations
5:32
and stuff. I think what's probably
5:36
as important is that she
5:38
was able to engage some
5:41
well-known fashion designers. Who
5:43
our listeners are going to know these names
5:46
when you're about to tell them. Right.
5:49
So, the Fashions was involved, Pauline Ch
5:51
rueger was quite heavily involved. I
5:54
did found mention of a young Jeffrey Bean
5:56
as well. Vera Maxwell. Vera
5:58
Maxwell, right. Shafna
6:00
and Morick's, Men's Wear. So
6:02
the list was very, very interesting.
6:06
I'm going to give a shout out to, at
6:08
this point, to Natalie Wright, who
6:10
is, was, she
6:13
may still be a PhD student up
6:15
at, I think, Wisconsin. Natalie
6:17
and I have communicated. She is
6:19
really literally writing the book on
6:21
functional fashion. That's
6:24
amazing. We would love to have her on the show when she's done.
6:27
Yeah, she has published a little
6:29
bit already, but she's really been digging into
6:31
the detail. And so she
6:34
put together a great exhibition on
6:36
functional fashions in, I think it was 2019, at
6:39
the Milwaukee Art Museum, and
6:41
wrote a wonderful blog about that. And that
6:43
is still up on the internet, as far
6:45
as I know. So you can
6:47
see some great, great pictures, images,
6:50
and her blog about
6:52
the movement on there. So again, I'm not
6:54
going to pretend to have to, to
6:56
have done all of that research myself.
6:59
That's, Natalie's taking care of that beautifully.
7:02
Now, one of the interesting
7:04
thing about functional fashions, you know, I started
7:07
off reading about this thinking, oh, this
7:09
really changed the game and shifted
7:12
everything. It didn't, it wrapped
7:15
around 1964, 1965. I
7:18
haven't found too many
7:21
explanations as to why, and I've seen
7:23
suggestions that it was a marketing issue.
7:27
One of the, I think one of
7:29
the problems we've had a lot
7:31
in the intersection of fashion disability over
7:34
since the 1960s is
7:37
getting the information out to the people who need
7:39
it. And I've heard that
7:41
over and over again. I still hear it now
7:43
with the internet, is that
7:45
just don't know that initiatives are out
7:47
there. They don't know where to look.
7:50
Well, you point out one that I thought was
7:52
really interesting that I think
7:54
probably was doing a good job at
7:56
this, I guess, Levi's. Could
7:58
you tell us how they were marketing? their adaptable
8:01
line? Yeah, well I
8:03
don't actually know how they were marketing.
8:05
I couldn't find much information.
8:07
I do know that Helen Cookman
8:10
worked with Levi's in the early 1970s. They used
8:12
a patent for
8:16
some pants for a seated man in
8:18
a wheelchair that had zippers on the
8:20
side. I put the patents, obviously
8:24
it's in the public domain, so you can go
8:26
online and look for patents by Helen Cookman. Suddenly
8:29
when she passed, I think it was
8:32
either 1973 or 1974, the
8:34
program at Levi's stopped. There was some
8:36
sort of limited advertising that I
8:38
think they thought might be more
8:40
like word of mouth. It
8:43
goes back to this industry perception
8:45
that one of the things
8:48
that I learned in my dissertation was
8:50
that at the
8:53
time, companies
8:56
did not want to be seen as
8:58
making stuff for people with disabilities. If
9:00
they were fashion companies, that
9:02
was not their market. They
9:04
didn't see it as design
9:07
for all or inclusive design. They saw it
9:09
as a completely separate market and
9:11
there was not enough money in it.
9:13
I may get some pushback for that,
9:16
but that's what I've read and the
9:18
things people I've told you, that's the
9:20
status quo. Yeah, well speaking of money,
9:22
the 1970s is this period of federal
9:25
legislation pertaining to disabilities
9:27
and that in turn
9:30
also meant governmental funds for
9:32
research and development for assistive
9:34
devices and product design. Did
9:37
that kind of infusion of
9:39
research money parlay
9:41
into the realm of clothing design
9:43
as well? No? Yes
9:46
and no. I think it got into
9:48
design. I still don't think it got as
9:50
far as the retail market, the mainstream retail
9:53
market. So yes, you're right. There was a
9:55
lot of, there was the Rehabilitation Act in 1973
9:57
that then gave rise to
10:00
the ADA in 1990, both
10:03
of which were like game changes for people
10:05
with disabilities. In fact, there
10:07
is clothing language in the A, specifically
10:10
related to employment for people with disabilities
10:12
and the ability to find size is kind
10:14
of buried, but it is in there.
10:17
There was a huge upswing
10:20
from about 1965 in
10:23
terms of government-funded
10:26
university-related research
10:28
in this country. A
10:30
lot of that had to do with
10:32
the Ag Extension programs. So those
10:35
extension programs that were set
10:37
up basically after the Second World
10:40
War at land-grant universities like Virginia
10:42
Tech and Michigan State and Iowa
10:44
State and all the big state
10:47
program. Texas Tech is another big
10:49
one. Texas Tech put out a lot of
10:51
research in the late 60s, early 70s. So
10:55
if you go through, if
10:57
you're an academic and you go back to the literature,
10:59
you'll see that there was just a ton
11:02
of initiatives throughout the
11:04
70s and 80s. It was
11:07
a wonderful program at Drexel University
11:09
run by Dolores Quinn that I write quite
11:12
a bit about. That sort
11:14
of crossed the bridge between
11:16
keeping stuff within the ivory
11:19
tower. She did that I
11:21
think was wonderful is that she asked Stephen Stipelman
11:23
to do all the illustrations for that book. So
11:27
it was really wonderful getting to know about that
11:29
work. Design Without Limits I
11:31
think is the name of the book. Again, out
11:33
of print, but you can get them on eBay.
11:38
If you turn this clock forward
11:40
50 years, now we're
11:42
kind of calling this realm adaptive
11:44
design, right? Within
11:47
that period, that's when this was born. Would
11:49
you define that term as it stands today for
11:51
our listeners? Today, friends.
11:55
Yeah, adaptive. It's an interesting term. I'm
11:57
going to give a shout out to...
12:00
someone who I profile in the
12:02
book Lucy Jones, who
12:05
graduated from Parsons and
12:07
she runs a company called
12:09
Foro and she's got beautiful,
12:11
beautiful wheelchair accessories. It's F-F-O-R-A.
12:15
Lucy said to me once,
12:17
I'm not keen on the term adaptive
12:20
because, and I'm gonna have to paraphrase her here,
12:22
I hope I do it correctly, when you
12:24
adapt something it means that it wasn't
12:26
designed right in the first place. Why
12:29
can't we just design things
12:31
correctly for the people who need them?
12:35
And I've given a lot of thought to that
12:37
because yeah,
12:40
I wouldn't, as a non-disabled
12:42
person, how would I feel about
12:44
that? I feel like
12:47
design, good design, should
12:50
be as far as possible
12:52
universal. I want to be
12:54
able to use things really no matter my
12:57
physical ability or cognitive
12:59
ability for that matter because this does
13:01
things, and even though I don't really write
13:04
about cognitive ability, it's part of universal design.
13:07
I think it's, as
13:09
far as I'm concerned, it's Pollyanna-ish
13:11
of me to imagine that every
13:13
single product and service out there
13:15
can be made to fit everybody's
13:17
needs. That's not fully feasible.
13:20
And I also
13:23
understand that, going back
13:25
to terminology again, because I'm a words
13:27
person, every era
13:31
has its name
13:33
that it needs to
13:35
collectively describe something. I think it's
13:37
a great thing that we are
13:39
talking about, who are prepared to
13:42
market to people who have
13:44
disabilities and to embrace disabled
13:47
models and for Vogue
13:49
to put disabled models on their cover.
13:52
We in the last literally five
13:54
years have seen such a
13:57
huge upswing in
13:59
public. That for
14:01
the word adapted or adaptive to
14:04
be used i'm not gonna
14:06
really argue with it
14:08
too much we
14:10
using that term. That's
14:13
great it's more important that
14:15
the things are being discussed then i
14:17
think the word that we're using to
14:19
describe that the needle has moved. I
14:23
think that i also think just one
14:25
other thing is that i think people
14:27
most sort of people out in the
14:29
community understand the word adaptive whereas inclusive
14:32
is something a bit more nebulous and a bit more vague.
14:35
Yeah well i mean never
14:37
before in history has so
14:40
much creativity and
14:42
so much care been directed
14:44
towards this very specific nexus
14:46
in fashion and disability. Trust
14:51
listeners whatever your reason for
14:53
wanting to learn a new
14:55
language whether it's an upcoming
14:57
international adventure communicating with your
14:59
friends and family abroad or
15:01
even professional purposes Rosetta Stone
15:03
has got you covered. As
15:06
the trusted expert in language learning
15:08
for 30 years now you can
15:10
join millions of Rosetta Stone users
15:13
to learn any of the 25
15:15
languages offered that includes Spanish, French,
15:17
Italian, German, Korean, Chinese, Japanese, Dutch,
15:19
Arabic and so many more. And
15:23
this is fast language acquisition
15:25
friends there are no English
15:27
translations so you learn to
15:29
speak listen and think in
15:31
your new language and
15:33
right now you can get lifetime access to
15:35
all 25 of Rosetta Stone's language courses for
15:38
50% off. That's
15:40
language learning for 25 languages
15:42
for the rest of your life which
15:44
class is frankly amazing. It is and
15:47
what are you waiting for trust listeners
15:49
don't put off learning that language there's
15:51
no better time than right now to
15:53
get started. For a very limited time trust
15:55
listeners can get Rosetta Stone's lifetime membership for
15:58
50% off. Visit
16:00
rosettastone.com/today.
16:02
That's 50% off unlimited access to 25
16:05
language courses for the rest of your
16:07
life. Redeem your 50% off
16:09
at rosettastone.com/today. Dress
16:14
listeners, did you know that you
16:16
can save on everything from fashion
16:18
to beauty, home decor to groceries,
16:20
even kids school supplies with Rakuten.
16:23
Rakuten is a shopping platform that
16:25
partners with over 3,500 stores across
16:27
every category. Beauty, clothing,
16:29
electronics, home, department stores, pets,
16:31
you name it. You're already
16:34
shopping at your favorite store, so why
16:36
not be saving while doing it? It really
16:38
is a no brainer. How does it work,
16:40
you ask? Well, stores pay Rakuten a commission
16:42
for sending them shoppers, and
16:44
Rakuten shares a commission with his members.
16:46
You get paid via a check or
16:49
PayPal quarterly. Membership is free
16:51
and it's easy to sign up. So
16:53
join the 17 million members who have
16:55
already saved at their favorite brands. Start
16:57
all your shopping at rakuten.com or get
16:59
the Rakuten app to start saving today.
17:01
Your cash back really adds up. That's
17:05
r-a-k-u-t-e-n.com. Shout
17:09
out to Astapro for sponsoring this episode and
17:11
providing us with free samples. Dress
17:14
listeners, if you suffer from seasonal
17:16
allergies like me, Astapro is your
17:18
new go-to. It hasn't super
17:20
helpful to me this spring as it bursts
17:22
into full bloom. And that's
17:24
because Astapro is the fastest 24 hour over
17:28
the counter solution for nasal allergy symptoms. Astapro
17:31
is a first of its kind nasal allergy spray.
17:34
It starts working in 30 minutes while
17:36
other allergy sprays take hours.
17:38
Astapro is the first and only 24 hour steroid
17:42
free allergy spray. And
17:44
Astapro delivers full prescription strength indoor and
17:47
outdoor allergy relief from nasal congestion, running
17:50
an itchy nose and sneezing. You
17:53
too can get fast acting nasal allergy with
17:56
Astapro. It gets me back in the
17:58
game, ready to record the show. for all of you. Go
18:02
to astaproallergy.com for a discount so
18:04
you can Astapro and Go today.
18:07
That's a-s-t-e-p-r-o-allergy.com.
18:12
Astapro and Go uses directives for
18:14
relief of nasal congestion, runny nose,
18:16
sneezing, and itchy nose due to
18:18
allergies. So
18:22
I mean again we could probably do an
18:24
entire podcast episode on this question that I'm
18:26
about to ask you. But who
18:29
are some of significant organizations
18:31
and individuals who are working in this
18:33
realm today? The list is long so I
18:36
know that Jorg is just gonna have to pick a few.
18:40
Yeah and I'm gonna miss many so my
18:42
apologies up front. I have
18:44
to talk about Izzy Camilleri first and
18:46
Izzy Adaptive. I think the first time
18:48
I saw Izzy's website was it
18:50
may have been 10 years ago Canadian
18:52
designer and they had a
18:55
wonderful exhibit on her work in Toronto
18:57
as well. So Izzy
18:59
Adaptive, first time I'd seen leather
19:02
jackets in a wheelchair with like
19:04
a really beautiful leather jackets too.
19:06
So she's done an
19:08
amazing, I called her work up as
19:10
sort of a gold standard personally. As
19:13
far as the mainstream retail,
19:15
I love what Target is
19:17
embracing footwear as another
19:19
company and I talked to Billy a bit. He's
19:21
profiled in the book and his shoes are just
19:24
have been picked up and copied everywhere now.
19:26
You see a lot of Billy footwear styles
19:29
being used. Liberari is
19:31
another brand that I really like
19:33
and then Unhidden. There's a number
19:35
of retailers, I
19:38
think there's more retailers than we know
19:40
about. Like Aerie is
19:42
now Aerie. Victoria's Secret are
19:45
doing Adaptive underwear. There
19:47
are many retailers who
19:50
are taking a portion of
19:52
their inventory and making it
19:54
Adaptive and they may not
19:56
be blowing
19:58
it out on Instagram. For example,
20:01
Decathlon, which is a sports store
20:03
in Europe, is doing some adaptive
20:05
stuff as well. So as far
20:08
as organizations go, obviously
20:11
Runway of Dreams has done an
20:13
amazing job about bringing the topic
20:15
to the forefront of fashion. I
20:18
think what British Vogue did last year
20:20
with Telme Blair and some of the
20:22
other models that were on the cover
20:25
has really changed the game. Open
20:27
Style Lab in New York is
20:29
another organization that is doing some
20:31
wonderful stuff. Yeah, there's
20:34
just a lot out there right now
20:36
and I apologize for people I've missed
20:38
some obvious things, but I know we're
20:40
short on time. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And I
20:42
just can't wait to see how this grows.
20:45
In the latest Costume Institute
20:47
exhibition, Women Dressing Women, there
20:49
was an adaptive entire look
20:52
included in the exhibition by Colleen
20:54
Astrada, as modeled by Aaron
20:56
Rose Phillips, and they even had
20:58
a custom mannequin of Aaron Rose made as
21:00
well for that exhibition. So hopefully
21:02
we'll see more of this. And again,
21:04
Kate, thank you so much. We could
21:06
have made multiple, multiple episodes out of
21:09
this discussion today. So listeners, you're just going
21:11
to have to get your hand on Kate's book
21:13
to learn all about the things that we didn't
21:15
have time to cover today. Kate,
21:17
thank you so much for joining us. April,
21:20
thank you so much. It's been an absolute pleasure.
21:23
Kate, thank you so much for joining us
21:25
for this week to stimulate all of our
21:28
thoughts about the power of dress design
21:30
and disability. You know, this
21:32
is an enormous topic and one that is very
21:34
much on the minds of many designers
21:36
and design collectors currently. So listeners,
21:39
if you would like us to do more episodes on this
21:41
topic, please let us know. We are very happy to.
21:43
And actually, I have a couple people already on
21:45
my list, Aaron Rose Phillips,
21:47
to come on the show. So
21:49
stay tuned. So hopefully we
21:51
will see more of this. And again,
21:54
Kate, thank you so much. We could
21:56
have made multiple, multiple episodes out of
21:58
this discussion today. So listeners, You're just
22:00
going to have to get your hand on Kate's book to
22:02
learn all about the things that we didn't have time
22:04
to cover today. Kate, thank
22:06
you so much for joining us. April,
22:09
thank you so much. It's been an absolute pleasure.
22:12
Kate, thank you so much for joining
22:14
us for this week to stimulate all
22:16
of our thoughts about the power of
22:18
dress, design, and disability. You
22:20
know this is an enormous topic and one that
22:23
is very much on the minds of many designers
22:25
and design collectors currently. So listeners, if you
22:27
would like us to do more episodes on
22:29
this topic, please let us know. We are
22:31
very happy to. And actually, I have a
22:33
couple people already on my list, A.
22:35
Ron Rose Phillips, to come on the
22:38
show. So stay tuned. Yes.
22:41
And I also mean what I said
22:43
about having Natalie Wright on after she
22:45
finishes her book on functional fashions and
22:48
the myriad of important American designers who
22:50
participated in that initiative. And Cass, you
22:52
know me, of course, I totally rabbit-holed.
22:54
As soon as Kate mentioned this,
22:56
I was like, OK, is Natalie's
22:58
book out yet? OK, no, it's not. What
23:00
else has she published about this already? So
23:03
I did find what she had published already.
23:05
And now I'm even more intrigued just to
23:07
add on a little bit to what Kate
23:09
already mentioned in the episode when she was
23:11
telling us about Helen Cookman, who is,
23:13
of course, the hearing impaired designer
23:15
of the functional fashions line. Helen
23:17
Cookman, she did a three-year residency
23:20
at NYU to develop this
23:22
initiative. And then she also
23:24
partnered, and Cass, you're going to find
23:26
this very interesting, with the renowned fashion
23:28
editor Virginia Pope to help
23:30
produce and promote this functional fashions line.
23:33
And it ran for almost 20 years
23:35
from 1958 to 1976. Yeah,
23:39
and with Pope's backing, they showed the functional
23:41
fashion line at New York Press Week,
23:43
which was the precursor to New York Fashion
23:45
Week. And April, I didn't know what we
23:48
now call it. Adaptive design
23:50
had this whole long history in
23:52
terms of the high fashion world
23:54
promoting and embracing it. Did you?
23:56
No, I didn't. And also, there's
23:58
so so much. so much more to all
24:01
of this. I don't want to give too much away in
24:03
the case that Natalie does join us
24:06
on the show, but she notes in
24:08
her work that this was actually the
24:10
functional fashion was kind of a multi-pronged
24:13
initiative. She writes that, quote, there
24:15
was a mail order catalog for Cookman's Ensembles
24:18
requesting that other designers incorporate
24:20
Cookman's original construction solutions into
24:22
their own creations. And then
24:24
also this other offshoot of
24:26
the initiative was identifying garments
24:28
that they deemed already functional,
24:30
end quote. And in
24:32
this last category of garments already
24:34
deemed functional, one of the main
24:36
participants in this realm was Bonnie
24:39
Cashin. And this makes
24:41
perfect sense given that her work
24:43
is frequently draped and
24:45
inspired and took a lot of inspiration
24:47
by, quote unquote, non-Western styles of dress.
24:50
And this is, of course, something that Kate and
24:52
I chatted about briefly in part one of the
24:54
episode in terms of draped styles
24:56
of clothing in the context of
24:58
ancient Greece and ancient Rome allowing
25:00
for an accommodating disability. So again,
25:03
so much more to say on this topic.
25:06
Yeah. And of course, while Cashin's
25:08
designs were designated as inherently functional,
25:12
other really big companies like Levi's in
25:14
the 1970s were forging new territory in
25:17
incorporating Cookman's design solutions into their mass-produced
25:19
offerings. So they produced things like stretched
25:21
denim jeans, which was really a novelty
25:23
at the time and which we've actually
25:25
done in a past episode about, it
25:28
was really fascinating. And these
25:30
jeans featured zippers that opened and closed each
25:32
leg for ease of dressing. And
25:34
they did not sacrifice style. They featured
25:36
Western style pockets and colored
25:39
top stitching. And they were
25:41
advertised at doctor's offices. And the Levi's, what we
25:43
would now call an adaptive line of the 1970s,
25:45
never really reached the
25:48
mainstream like how props Tommy Hilfiger's adaptive line
25:50
has now. But it's really important to note
25:52
that this was 50 years ago at this
25:54
point. So there's just so much more to
25:57
impact in terms of the history of adaptive
25:59
and universal. design movements that are
26:01
getting some much deserved attention today.
26:04
Yes, and I think that I would very much
26:06
like to work more on this topic. So again,
26:08
listeners, if you want to hear more about this,
26:10
let us know. I will of course
26:13
see if Natalie would like to join us when
26:15
she finishes her book to chat more about Helen
26:17
Cookman and functional fashion. And also,
26:19
Cass and I have been wanting to invite some
26:21
models and designers working in this realm of disability
26:23
on the show for a while. Sinead
26:26
Burke has been on our list for some time.
26:28
We would love, love, love to have her if she
26:30
would join us. Yes, absolutely.
26:33
Well, dress listeners, that does it on this
26:35
topic for this week. May you consider how
26:37
the ease of your clothing impacts your daily
26:39
life next time you get dressed. Remember,
26:42
we love hearing from you. So if you'd like to write to
26:44
us, you can do so at hello at dress history.com.
26:47
And also DM us on Instagram at dress underscore
26:49
podcast, which is where we post images and
26:51
reels to accompany each week's episodes.
26:54
If you'd like to search for this
26:56
episode's Instagram content, you can search the
26:58
hashtag dress3.com. You
27:00
can also find us on our website, which is
27:03
dress history.com. And
27:05
there you can find information about any
27:07
of our upcoming classes, trips and tours.
27:10
And Cass, you have a new class open
27:12
for registration, would you like to tell our
27:14
listeners a little bit about it? Yes, I
27:16
am so excited to bring you What Women
27:18
Wore to the Revolution Part 2. You
27:21
do not have had to have taken part one to enjoy
27:24
this class. But basically, we are continuing
27:26
our exploration into the evolution
27:28
and revolution of women's fashion
27:30
across some of the most
27:32
iconic eras in fashion history. So
27:35
I'm talking about the 1930s, where you
27:37
have, you know, this crazy dichotomy between
27:39
the reality of the Great Depression and
27:41
the oat glam of like high fashion
27:43
and Hollywood. Yes,
27:45
exactly. So we'll delve into
27:47
that. And the 40s is of course defined
27:49
really by World War Two and what women wore
27:52
to work, but also how they
27:54
use their bodies and their dress bodies as
27:56
acts To represent acts of subversion
27:58
like things like the French Revolution. This tends
28:00
to often says is like Japanese
28:02
internment camps in America and then
28:04
we move into the fifties. Which of
28:07
course is the high fashion era of the
28:09
golden age of Oh Couture. And I'm actually
28:11
gonna take you behind the scenes. To meet
28:13
a lot of those women? Who work
28:15
behind the scenes in the Okafor industry
28:17
so not necessarily designers other will certainly
28:20
that of them back the models, The
28:22
fashion editors all these women behind the
28:24
scenes are really instrumental sue force in
28:26
the. Success. Of that industry in
28:28
America and in Europe and then
28:30
moving into the sixties which is
28:32
the fast and revolution where everything
28:35
everyone thought they knew about that's
28:37
an amateur body image and Irvine
28:39
area all those out the window.
28:41
it's so crazy. When you compare the
28:43
fifties and sixties assume said drastic change
28:45
self can be really fun and I
28:47
hope you will So me. And
28:50
even the Business Assassin Saints and the Nexus Six
28:52
he said must be to set of find. Out
28:54
if there's some assistance and we'll see how I
28:56
cram it into one hour one for. Not
28:58
as, but I always do my best
29:00
efforts. Sometimes cats and I are like
29:03
during his last night. Why did we
29:05
decide to talk about so much styles
29:07
and forty five an hour? It's hard
29:09
now more than weekends, his successor of
29:11
her friends. If you live or find
29:13
yourself in your city. Please
29:15
consider coming to join the at the
29:17
Metropolitan Museum of Art and ninety Minutes
29:19
at a foolish and as as in
29:21
passing history news or fourth my sense
29:24
of History Tours of the match where
29:26
I take you to send a seamless
29:28
sit in the recesses and the museums
29:30
as we seek out and of museums
29:33
most fashionable masterpieces and we're having a
29:35
blast. So far on all these tours
29:37
and I will say this we have
29:39
had many many many New Yorkers join
29:41
this tour who has afterward said wow
29:44
I did not. Know that that part
29:46
of the met existence of I have they
29:48
are all the times I'm a member. I'm
29:50
her all the time. so I'm just saying
29:52
about her working for you all Smith from
29:55
Very fun experience Bird. And this.
Podchaser is the ultimate destination for podcast data, search, and discovery. Learn More