8:00

machine, Isaac Singer. Yes. And this is

8:02

actually a legal battle that played out

8:04

in the press. It was very dramatic.

8:06

And it certainly could be its own

8:08

podcast episode. So perhaps we will get

8:10

into that in the future. But we're

8:12

not going to go into those details

8:14

today. But what we will

8:16

expand upon, however, is one of Elias's

8:18

lesser known contributions to fashion history. At

8:20

least, April, I certainly had no idea

8:22

before researching for this episode that he

8:24

is not only one of the founding

8:26

fathers of the modern sewing machine. He

8:28

is also a founding father of

8:31

the modern zipper, one of several founding

8:33

fathers, in fact, because the history of

8:35

the zipper, as it turns out, is

8:37

a very multi-person international affair.

8:39

As are a lot of

8:42

these inventions of the 19th century, right? There's just

8:44

something in the cultural zeitgeist. A lot of people

8:46

are trying to solve the same problem at the

8:48

same time by way of technology. So

8:51

in 1851, Howe received a patent for

8:55

an, quote, automatic continuous

8:57

clothing closure. As

9:01

he writes in the patent, quote,

9:03

my invention consists of a series

9:05

of clasps united by a connecting

9:07

cord. The said clasps running or

9:09

sliding upon ribs formed of any

9:11

suitable material. The advantage of

9:13

this manner of fastening garments consists of

9:15

the ease and quickness, which they can

9:17

be opened or closed where there is

9:19

no liability of their getting out of

9:21

order. I'm

9:23

a little confused about what this means. But

9:26

OK. Yes. And you're not alone.

9:28

And it's not exactly the modern day zipper

9:30

we know and love, but the idea is

9:32

there, right? So we are

9:34

all, of course, familiar with the zipper

9:36

design of today that consists of two

9:38

separate strips of metal or

9:41

more commonly today plastic teeth that join

9:43

together, right? These teeth are connected to

9:45

a strip of material on either side.

9:47

And they interlock when you pull or

9:49

quote, unquote, zip that slider up. And

9:51

thus, you join together these disparate pieces

9:54

of fabric, which were once two strips

9:56

are now one. So in house design,

9:58

and I'm going to try to explain this in a second. and

10:00

I'll post an image because I don't do it very well. So

10:03

the teeth are already joined

10:05

at the bottom of the opening you

10:07

wanna close and you close

10:09

that opening by pulling on a cord

10:11

which then pulls the device up along

10:14

the ribs and closes the

10:16

garment, if that makes sense. So

10:18

it's the closure that moves. Yes,

10:20

the closure already exists, but it

10:22

moves. So it doesn't join

10:24

together, essentially, it's already closed. So like I

10:27

said, it's a little hard to explain, but

10:29

we will post images. Dress

10:32

listeners, you have heard us mention our

10:34

friend Rebecca Devaney who runs Textile Tours

10:37

of Paris several times on the show

10:39

now, and we cannot wait to tell

10:41

you about her latest offering. Rebecca

10:43

and Jo Andrews, who is the host

10:45

of the Haptic and Hue podcast, have

10:47

created a series of textile travel guides

10:50

for the Intrepid Traveler. If

10:52

you are a textile or fashion lover,

10:54

these are the guides we have all

10:56

been waiting for. They are designed for

10:58

anyone who travels in search of textile

11:00

treasures, but despairs they may be out

11:02

of the loop. So Rebecca and Jo have

11:04

done their best to make sure you don't

11:06

miss a stitch again. Six

11:08

downloadable PDF guides have been

11:11

published so far for London,

11:13

Paris, Dublin, Lyon, and Venice,

11:15

and the latest is for my hometown, New York

11:18

City. The textile travel guides are

11:20

designed to help you plan your trip in

11:22

advance and then easily navigate your way to

11:24

textile treasures when you arrive at your destination.

11:28

The guides include a custom-made Google map with all

11:30

the listings pinned, and they are even color-coded. Rebecca

11:33

and Jo have already threaded your next

11:35

textile adventure all together for you, and

11:37

you can find all six guides available

11:40

for download now at textiletoursofparis.com by clicking

11:42

on the Textile Travels tab. And

11:44

dress listeners through June 30th, you can get 20%

11:48

off the brand new Textile Travels Guide for

11:50

New York by using the code Dressed20. That's

11:53

textiletoursofparis.com with the

11:55

discount code Dressed20. Yes,

11:57

and needless to say, Paul

12:00

never marketed this particular design, which

12:02

it has been speculated might have

12:05

to do with the success of

12:07

his sewing machine. He didn't want

12:09

to sacrifice one to the other,

12:11

I suppose, but regardless, he missed

12:13

out on an opportunity to continue

12:15

this idea's development and thus reap

12:17

the benefits of the remarkable success

12:19

the zipper would enjoy during

12:21

the 20th and 21st centuries. And

12:24

thus, the next step towards the

12:26

modern day zipper comes to us

12:29

via one Mr. Whitcomb Judson, I

12:31

love that name, by the way, who

12:33

in 1893, 42 years after Howe, patented a shoe fastening,

12:38

which was comprised of a, quote, series

12:41

of clasps, secureable to the flaps

12:43

of the shoes or other corresponding

12:45

parts to be fastened, end quote.

12:47

And this was done by a hand

12:50

device that automatically engaged or disengaged the

12:52

clasp by a single continuous movement. So

12:55

unlike Howe, Judson would actually manufacture

12:58

his new design launching the universal

13:00

fastener company and debuting his new

13:03

clasp locker at the 1893 Chicago's

13:05

World Fair. Although

13:09

it must be said, this does

13:11

not seem to have ended up

13:13

being a commercially successful venture. And

13:16

when you look at the patent for this

13:18

design, you can actually kind of see why

13:20

it might not have been super successful. It's

13:23

a little complicated unnecessarily. So it's essentially a

13:25

series of hooks and eyes. And

13:28

it's still really not the design we're going

13:30

to recognize as the modern zipper. But

13:32

that is going to come to us

13:34

thanks to another person at Judson's universal fastener

13:36

company. Actually his

13:38

head designer won Gideon Sundback.

13:41

Awesome names all around today. Yes. And

13:44

I will say I hope I am pronouncing that correctly because

13:46

he is Swedish American. And

13:49

he's an electrical engineer who's the head designer at

13:51

Universal Fastener Company. He actually will take out a

13:53

series of patents in 1913 and 1917 that drastically

13:55

improve on

13:59

the fastener's design. by streamlining the

14:01

materials and the process by which it works,

14:04

so much so that when you look at

14:06

his patent for his separable fastener from 1917,

14:09

it has two rows of interlocking

14:11

metal teeth, you recognize the modern

14:14

zipper. In design, Cass, but not

14:16

in the name. Because while Gideon's

14:18

quote-unquote new hookless fastener was heralded

14:20

at the time as the device,

14:22

quote, the world had been waiting

14:24

for, it would surprisingly

14:26

be the American rubber manufacturer company,

14:29

BF Goodrich, who's really known for

14:31

tires, I guess. Exactly. Who would

14:33

give the zipper its name. Starting

14:36

in 1923, the company began using

14:38

the innovative new product in a

14:41

new rubber boot that they were

14:43

promoting. And as it turns out,

14:45

zipper was the name given to

14:47

these boots and not the

14:49

hookless fastener, which they utilized. But

14:51

zipper, as a term, quickly became

14:54

the go-to name for the innovative

14:56

closure adopted by the many manufacturers

14:58

that began implementing this same type

15:01

of closure in a whole host

15:03

of products. So it's

15:05

not surprising that this term

15:07

zipper quickly replaced hookless fastener, Cass,

15:10

because the phrase hookless fastener does

15:12

not exactly excite the senses. No,

15:15

but zipper certainly does, literally, because,

15:17

April, I don't know if you've

15:19

ever considered this. I certainly hadn't.

15:22

But zipper is something known as

15:24

a onomatopoetic,

15:28

which is a word I have never heard of,

15:31

and I'm guessing you probably have because your vocabulary

15:33

is... Onomatopoeia. ...exponentially better

15:35

than mine. But I had

15:37

never heard of this word. This word means,

15:40

in general, that something is named for the

15:42

sound it makes. So the

15:44

zipper is named for the sound

15:46

it makes when it zips. Which

15:49

I just think is so fascinating,

15:51

as is this history in general,

15:53

especially the fact that Goodrich is

15:55

making women's galoshes, or rubber boots,

15:58

at the dawn of the 20th century. So as

16:00

you mentioned, looking at Goodrich's early

16:02

ads, Zippers was the name initially

16:05

given to the boots that used

16:07

the hookless fastener. And once

16:09

that name was out there, it really

16:11

stuck. The zipper becomes quite a sensation

16:13

and the excitement around it is really

16:16

evidenced in a 1926 menswear

16:18

magazine article. I'd never even

16:20

heard of this Fairchild publication,

16:22

menswear magazine. And this article

16:24

is entitled, Tobacco Pouch Panties

16:26

Boon to Button Chasers. April,

16:29

let's try and illuminate what tobacco

16:31

pouch panties are and button chasers

16:34

for our audience, shall we? Okay,

16:37

I have lots of questions about

16:39

what tobacco pouch panties might be.

16:41

Maybe we will or will not get to the bottom

16:43

of that. But this article

16:46

begins, quote, God made

16:48

pearl, manmade buttons, and

16:50

only a personal devil could conceive

16:53

some of the profanity that buttons

16:55

inspire. Like all of mankind's

16:57

undertakings, buttons fall just a little

16:59

short of performing the perfect function.

17:02

A few months ago, makers were predicting

17:04

a pearl button shortage. Statisticians

17:06

were busy compiling figures to show that

17:08

if all the lost buttons were piled

17:10

up in a heap, that it would

17:12

look like the Woolworth building. Bachelors

17:15

were hoping for the best and banging

17:17

their heads on the iron rods under

17:19

single beds as they pursued buttons that

17:22

had torn loose, end quote. I

17:24

mean, who knew that losing your

17:26

buttons was such a huge problem and

17:28

so vexing? Yes, but

17:30

problem no more because as

17:33

the article tells us, quote,

17:35

now zipper underwear has come

17:37

along and tobacco pouch panties

17:39

are available. Recent entries also

17:41

include zipper luggage, zipper overshoes,

17:43

zipper, golf bags, zipper work

17:45

clothes and other mess chain

17:47

miracles. Man's clothes now operate

17:49

like a mechanical toy. A few well

17:52

timed gestures strip the mail, pull the

17:54

wrong string and shock an entire neighborhood.

17:57

So this article was obviously quite fun. and

18:00

also surprisingly insightful into gender dynamics

18:03

of the period as these social

18:05

anxieties about the modern

18:07

working woman of the era arise

18:09

a little bit here. Apparently the

18:12

zipper was an incredibly important addition to

18:14

the aforementioned

18:16

button chaser, the men, because women

18:18

in his life were no longer

18:21

available to sew his fallen buttons

18:23

back onto his car. Quote, the

18:25

modern woman has lost her thimble and

18:27

doesn't know where to find it. The

18:29

finger that formerly wore a silver

18:32

crown is now punching a noiseless

18:34

typewriter, wearing a long triangle shaped

18:36

and highly decorated fingernail or manipulating

18:38

an orange stick. And for anybody

18:40

who doesn't know what that term

18:42

is, it's a nail file essentially.

18:45

A typist or a manicurist is born every

18:47

minute. Home sores are as rare

18:49

as men who wear darned socks. Making

18:52

two salaries do the work of

18:55

one has pretty well wiped out

18:57

the thrift instinct among Eve's nieces.

18:59

End quote. Wow, that's

19:02

a lot. I actually

19:04

love this so much because it just

19:06

gives insights into this new generation of

19:08

working women and what they're doing and

19:10

how they're doing it. So it was

19:13

perhaps unexpected to get into that in

19:15

this article, but not entirely surprising to

19:18

find these sorts of anxieties laid out

19:20

here. Right, April? I mean, considering the

19:22

fears of women leaving the domestic sphere

19:24

and their domestic duties behind, and that

19:27

of course includes mending men's clothes, have

19:29

been playing out in satiric representations since

19:32

at least the 19th century when women dared

19:34

to fight for the right to vote. Luckily,

19:36

the zipper has appeared to save the distraught

19:38

male sex who quote, equipped with zippers could

19:40

probably cut down his waist motion about half.

19:42

He could stay in bed 10 minutes longer

19:44

in the morning. So

19:46

the zipper was really a lifesaver in more ways

19:49

than one, April, although dress listeners, I will have

19:51

to say I'm the one who researched this part

19:53

portion of the episode, and I could not get

19:55

to the bottom of what tobacco

19:57

pouch panties were. Although I I

20:00

do know that Goodrich also

20:02

used zippers on tobacco pouches.

20:04

So maybe panties is some

20:06

sort of pouch. And

20:08

as we know in etymology, the

20:10

meanings of words change. So maybe

20:12

that's what it was. Or

20:15

maybe it's a pouch that was stuffed in someone's panties.

20:17

We are not going to get to the bottom of

20:19

that today. Be sure, though,

20:22

when I feel the need to

20:24

go down a rabbit hole, I'm going to take for a

20:26

round with this one. This will be it. I'm

20:29

going to be watching a movie and

20:31

researching for you guys what tobacco pouch

20:33

panties are. So maybe zipper undershirts and

20:35

zipper underwear, perhaps, didn't quite

20:37

translate into mainstream culture. But

20:40

the zipper certainly did. By

20:42

the 1930s, it was being used

20:44

in everything from men's trousers to

20:46

women's high fashion. And the

20:48

latter was the subject of a 1937 Life magazine article, which

20:53

says, quote, now everything's zippers. And

20:55

it talks about how at the

20:57

Paris fashion openings of that year,

20:59

quote, Malignot, the English captain who

21:01

was now a leading French dressmaker,

21:04

showed a winter coat which zipped

21:06

from head to neck. The

21:08

buyers and fashion reporters were

21:10

accustomed to zippers on underwear,

21:12

sports clothes, house coats, but

21:14

a full-length zipper on a

21:16

dressy, box-trimmed coat was sensational.

21:19

Overnight, the zipper, which since 1913 had

21:22

been an accepted functional gadget

21:24

for smooth, secure clothing became

21:27

an important style element. And

21:29

it must be said here, for those of you who

21:31

know I'm a big Scapparelli fan, that

21:34

Malignot was not the only

21:36

couturier at this time who

21:38

was using zippers in their

21:40

ensembles as the

21:42

form of adornment, actually. Elsa Scapparelli

21:44

did this quite frequently and sometimes

21:46

quite blatantly. She wasn't just using

21:48

them, adding them along the sleeve

21:50

to some of her 1930s evening

21:53

gowns. And Scapparelli

21:55

is one of those designers who's very

21:57

much known for pursuing and using

32:00

wants today. Same with zipper.

32:02

I didn't come across anything

32:04

with Goodrich being PO'd that people were

32:06

using zipper, but that was their name.

32:08

So I don't know how that translated

32:10

as well. Well, Velcro

32:12

is very insistent that they are

32:15

Velcro brand products and that that

32:17

hook and loop fastening system is

32:20

to be credited as such. Interesting.

32:23

But back on the point of the name,

32:26

Velcro actually takes, and this was

32:29

fascinating to learn, takes its name

32:31

from the Vel in velvet and

32:33

the Crow in crochet. So

32:36

hook and loop. So

32:38

even the term Velcro roots itself in fashion

32:40

terms, which I thought was really interesting. And

32:43

while today Velcro and other hook and

32:46

loop products are used widely in

32:48

a variety of products, the fashion

32:50

trades were an early adapter of

32:52

the product when it was known

32:54

specifically as Velcro as it exploded

32:56

onto the market following its patent in

32:58

the US in 1958. Time magazine

33:01

described it in September of that year

33:04

as quote, two strips of

33:06

fabric, one with thousands

33:08

of tiny nylon hooks, the other

33:10

with thousands of equally tiny nylon

33:12

loops. When the strips are pressed

33:14

together, the hooks catch the loops and hold

33:16

fast. And when the strips are peeled apart,

33:19

hook and loop easily disengage. Velcro

33:21

is not only jamless and washable,

33:23

but can be manufactured in any

33:25

width or color. This fall

33:28

Velcro fasteners will appear on everything

33:30

from women's make sweater collars to

33:32

men's slacks. After

33:35

a 1959 fashion show in

33:37

New York City's Waldorf Astoria

33:39

hotel displayed everything from Velcro

33:41

diapers to Velcro golf jackets

33:43

to Velcro closures on

33:45

ensembles for stylish society matrons. The

33:47

New York Times declared it as

33:49

quote, the end of buttons, toggles,

33:52

hooks, zippers, snaps, and even safety

33:54

pins. However,

33:56

despite the novelty, the bulky nature

33:58

of Velcro didn't necessarily enmeshed

34:00

itself into high fashion. It

34:03

really never has, if you think about it. It

34:06

did, however, find its place in

34:08

sportswear and outer space. In

34:11

1961, NASA used Velcro for

34:13

a variety of uses, including

34:15

closures on astronauts, space suits,

34:17

and boots, watch straps,

34:19

and most curiously, quote,

34:21

nose-scratching sticks inside helmets.

34:24

Mm-hmm. There's another rabbit hole for you. Just

34:26

add that to tobacco pouch panties. It's also

34:29

making you very claustrophobic, just even thinking about

34:31

the fact that you need a nose-scratcher inside

34:33

your helmet. In

34:35

1968, Puma began using Velcro

34:37

in its sneakers. And

34:40

this is something that really took off

34:42

in footwear design in the early 1980s.

34:45

Yes, do we all remember K-Swiss,

34:47

the closures? They were

34:49

the Itchoo, for those of us who grew up in the 80s.

34:53

But this explosion of the use of hook-and-loop

34:55

closures in shoe design in the early 1980s

34:58

actually has to do with the fact

35:00

that Dumestrel's original patent for Velcro expired

35:03

on April 2, 1978. So

35:07

this opens up the market for competitors

35:09

who then went on to engineer their

35:11

own versions of his hook-and-loop system, which

35:14

do not go by the Velcro trademark.

35:16

So you might be using a generic

35:18

version of Velcro that

35:20

uses the same idea, but it's

35:23

not technically Velcro. No, it is

35:25

not. It was genuine Velcro,

35:27

however, if you happened to be using or

35:29

if you were swathed in Velcro's 1992 collaboration

35:34

with Huggy's Supreme Diapers, which

35:36

was yet another charming piece of

35:39

the Velcro story that we uncovered.

35:41

Today, Dumestrel's original idea has a

35:43

myriad of applications under the Velcro

35:45

brand, including a hook-to-hook variant, which

35:48

is an appearance more akin to

35:50

a zipper. And since 2020,

35:52

Velcro Eco products have become

35:54

widely available, which employ

35:56

a significant percentage of recycled

35:58

materials dress

40:00

listeners because they were subsequent appeals in

40:02

the case centered around the fact that

40:05

fossil claimed they had no knowledge of

40:07

the Chinese manufacturers use of counterfeit products

40:09

Therefore they did not willfully infringe on

40:12

Romax trademark This actually made it

40:14

all the way up to the Supreme Court in

40:16

2019 And in

40:18

2020 the courts decision remanded the decision to

40:20

one of the previous courts it had passed through

40:23

But it still alas remains unclear to us if

40:25

fossil ever had to pay this six point

40:27

eight million dollars or not Yeah,

40:30

and I even asked a friend who is

40:32

an IP attorney about the Supreme Court's decision

40:35

And he couldn't really tell how everything had been

40:37

written up Which court the

40:40

decision had been returned or remanded

40:42

to so which court was it

40:44

decision that ended up sticking? Anyway,

40:47

we don't know who knew that there was

40:49

also so much at stake just over like

40:51

snapping your clutch shut right

40:54

Fashion is a big business friends. Let's

40:56

not forget this this lawsuit was obviously

40:58

over the use of magma That's as

41:00

used in the handbag industry But the

41:03

use of magnetic closures has also been

41:05

on the rise in recent decades in

41:07

the jewelry industry And I

41:09

mean if think about this who hasn't struggled

41:11

with teeny tiny clasps on necklaces Especially if

41:14

you have long nails, so there are a

41:16

lot of jewelry brands out there that are

41:18

using Magnetic closures and

41:20

market their products to seniors

41:22

who face dexterity challenges Yeah,

41:25

and this ease of opening and closing

41:27

magnetic snaps also makes the closure system

41:30

a favorite for adaptive fashion brands as

41:32

April mentioned earlier So

41:34

there are several companies that create magnetic

41:36

fashions including Magna ready Which that

41:39

was founded by a woman who launched

41:41

the company after her husband was diagnosed

41:43

with Parkinson's at a young age So

41:45

these companies really serve the needs of

41:47

those in the community with mobility issues

41:49

because they include these magnetic closures So

41:51

it makes it easier to get dressed

41:53

and then you have brands like Tommy

41:55

adaptive which employ both velcro brand closures

41:58

velcro brand closure Go, Brand. Don't

42:01

sue us. And magnetic snaps for

42:03

the front fly closure for their

42:05

jeans, pants, and shorts. And

42:07

get this, there are also now

42:09

magnetic zippers on the market cast,

42:11

and this was something that's entirely

42:13

new to me. How

42:16

when you zip something up, you have

42:18

to put the endpoints of one half

42:20

of the zipper into the other endpoint

42:22

slot. Yes. Well, magnetic zippers

42:24

bring the two ends together automatically when

42:27

they are placed in proximity to each

42:29

other, and they're just like ready

42:32

to zip. And this makes them great

42:34

for children and anyone else requiring assistance

42:36

with fine motor skills. So when I

42:38

saw these, I was like, what is

42:40

this? The future? Dress

42:43

listeners, now that we have come full

42:45

circle or full zipper, I think

42:48

that does it for us today. We hope

42:50

that you have enjoyed this brief overview of

42:52

the history of some of the most common

42:55

types of clothing enclosures used in contemporary fashion

42:57

today. And may you ponder the

42:59

various ways you get in and out of your clothing

43:01

next time you get dressed. Dress

43:03

listeners, we have opened registration for the second

43:06

week of our tour, our fashion history tour

43:08

of Paris coming to you this fall, October

43:10

12th to the 19th, 2024 with the caveat

43:14

that we need at least 15 people to join

43:16

to make it happen. And we are well on

43:18

our way. And we do

43:20

hope you consider joining us because you are

43:22

not going to find this fashion history itinerary

43:25

anywhere else. It's incredibly special and magical. We

43:27

worked really, really hard on it. And

43:29

we hope that you will join us. If that

43:31

sounds of interest to you, please reach out to

43:33

us at hello at dresshistory.com to

43:36

reserve your spot. dresshistory.com

43:38

is our website where you can find information on

43:40

our upcoming of Paris coming to you this fall,

43:43

October 12th to the 19th, 2024 with the caveat

43:45

that we need at least

43:48

15 people to join to make

43:50

it happen. And we are well on our way.

43:53

And we do hope you consider joining us

43:55

because you are not going to find this

43:57

fashion history itinerary anywhere else. It's incredibly special

43:59

and magical. We worked really really hard on

44:01

it and we hope that you

44:03

will join us. If that sounds of interest to

44:05

you, please reach out to us at helloatdresshistory.com to

44:09

reserve your spot. dresshistory.com

44:11

is our website where you can find

44:13

information on our upcoming fashion history tours,

44:16

classes, and anything else we have up

44:18

our sleeves including the upcoming online fashion

44:20

history course, What Women Wore to the

44:22

Revolution, which is covering some of the

44:24

most revolutionary and iconic eras in fashion

44:26

history, the 1930s, 40s, 50s, and 60s.

44:31

So I hope you will join me starting June 23rd.

44:35

Yes, and also if you would like to join

44:37

me in New York City for one of my

44:39

fashion history Fridays at The Met, I

44:41

am doing tours, 90 minute tours

44:43

of The Met's permanent collection where

44:45

we seek out 10 of The

44:47

Met's most fashionable masterpieces. And

44:50

we really dig into their histories and the

44:52

clothing depicted and all sorts of other things

44:54

that arise including politics and gender politics and

44:57

you name it. You can find more about that

44:59

and register also at dresshistory.com.

45:03

If you'd like to reach out to us,

45:05

you can reach us on Instagram at dress

45:07

underscore podcast where you'll find images and reels

45:10

accompanying each week's episodes. And

45:12

if you want to find the Instagram

45:14

content specifically connected to this episode, check

45:16

out the hashtag dressed372. That's

45:19

dressed and then the numbers 372. Also

45:22

remember you can find an array of

45:24

our favorite and podcast featured fashion history

45:26

books on our dress bookshelf through bookshop.org.

45:29

You'll find a link in our show notes to our

45:31

dress bookshelf as well as the link to sign up

45:33

for the ad free version of the show, which is just

45:35

$3 a month. That is

45:37

the exclusive content version of the show, which is ad

45:40

free. As always, thank you

45:42

so much for your continued support. More dressed

45:44

coming your way on Friday. Dress

45:48

the history of fashion is a production of

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dress media. is

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