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Surfing

Released Friday, 21st June 2024
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Surfing

Surfing

Surfing

Surfing

Friday, 21st June 2024
Good episode? Give it some love!
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Episode Transcript

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0:25

Hello Internet, I'm your husband, host Travis

0:27

McElroy. And I'm your wife, host Teresa

0:30

McElroy. And you're listening to Schmanner. It's

0:32

extraordinary etiquette. For ordinary occasions. Hello

0:34

my dude. Hello,

0:38

I'm a du-det. That's

0:40

fair. That's fair. I

0:43

often use dude interchangeably. I

0:45

try to be careful about that. But I'm just a

0:47

surfer guy from the 90s. You

0:49

know, when you think about Travis McElroy. You think

0:51

about surfing in the 90s. Yeah,

0:54

either surfing in the 90s, skateboarding in

0:56

the 90s, in-line skating in the 90s.

0:58

Hacky-sacking in the 90s. A

1:01

lot of what I would say super cool dude sports

1:03

in the 90s. I'm

1:05

parasailing. Well surfing's been cool

1:07

forever. Yeah, but a lot of

1:09

people agree I really brought it to its

1:12

feet. In the 90s. When you think about

1:14

Travis, you think about surfing. When you think about serving,

1:16

you think about Travis. That's what

1:18

I've been told by numerous reputable sources.

1:20

They call me the Tony Hawk of

1:22

surfing. You're doing the wrong show. This

1:24

is Schmanner, it's not an event. Everything

1:26

I've said has been 100% true so far. I

1:29

lived whole lives before you knew me, babe. You

1:31

don't know how to surf. No, I've

1:33

forgotten now because of the accident. I

1:36

can't talk about it anymore. I

1:39

was there on Big Shark Cove. And

1:42

you'll never believe what's in Big Shark Cove. Is

1:44

it a big shark? A lot of big

1:46

sharks. They should call it Big Shark's Cove,

1:48

but apparently that's too confusing. We

1:50

are going to talk about surfing today. I

1:53

already was. So grab your swimsuit

1:55

and let's dive in. I

1:57

assume like a rash guard that surfs up.

2:00

Can we try that again? Take two, I'm just gonna give you a

2:02

little note. Grab your rash guard and surfs

2:04

up. Try that, maybe with a bit of like a

2:06

California accent. Grab

2:09

your rash guard and surfs

2:11

up, dude. Grab your

2:13

rash guard and surfs up, dude. Grab

2:16

your rash guard. No, I'm starting to go, that's

2:18

too Midwestern. That's too, that's too Chicago. Grab

2:20

your rash guard. Yeah,

2:22

anyways, hey, welcome to Shmanners. All right, I'm

2:25

all the clamp now, you're making me do

2:27

accents and stuff. I

2:30

can't get, oh, I don't know why I'm doing that.

2:32

Hey, dude, grab your rash guard and surfs up. I

2:34

needed to start with hey, dude, and then I got

2:36

me into it. That's how you did it. Yeah, dude,

2:38

I needed something to drop in. That's

2:40

a surfing term. It is. Starting

2:43

with history, though. Certainly, surfing brings

2:45

to mind the things that you

2:48

have talked about. Yes. Travis. Yes,

2:51

but rash guards and the 90s and

2:54

dudes, right? Yeah.

2:57

It has a complex and

2:59

rich history, surfing does. I'm

3:01

gonna guess in the

3:04

Pacific Islander culture, or

3:07

I don't think surfing was invented by white people.

3:09

Let's say that. It was

3:11

not. You are correct, sir. It was not.

3:14

So it originated in

3:17

Polynesia, in coast islands, like

3:20

Tahiti and Samoa and

3:22

later Hawaii, right? Historians

3:25

can't really pinpoint exactly

3:27

when surfing started, because

3:29

to these cultures, it's almost always been.

3:32

Yeah, and it's interesting, because I wouldn't

3:34

have thought about surfing this way, but

3:37

it's like boats, right? It's

3:40

not like one person invented boat and

3:43

then shared it to everybody. Everybody was kind

3:45

of working on their version of boat, because

3:48

it was like, yeah, we got to go out on the

3:50

water and do things, so we need a way to do

3:53

that. And if you think about it, there's

3:56

not, I mean, the standing up

3:58

part, obviously, but a kayak... canoe

4:00

or surfboard, these individual sit on

4:02

a thing and paddle out, it's

4:05

not that varied, you

4:07

know, as an idea of like

4:09

long, thin, one

4:12

person going out into

4:14

the water with a paddle, except as a

4:16

surfboard evolved into you paddle out with your

4:18

hands and then stand up on it and ride

4:20

waves. But I can see how they all

4:22

have like evolved

4:26

concurrently. We have a kind

4:28

of pinpoint of the

4:31

12th century where we

4:33

have dated cave paintings. I

4:36

would never date a cave painting. Not good

4:38

listeners. Wah, wah. But

4:42

like I said, like you said, we don't know

4:44

the exact age. But

4:47

hundreds of years old. Hundreds,

4:50

many hundreds, multi-hundreds.

4:53

And there's evidence that kayak-like

4:55

fishing boats were surfed

4:58

in the shores of Peru, right,

5:00

that date back as far as 5,000 years ago.

5:04

What? And there's also evidence

5:06

of surfing off the coast of West

5:08

Africa. So there's a lot,

5:10

like you said, there's lots of

5:13

different like not even concurrent, but

5:15

like. But they weren't serving

5:17

on the tropical beaches of Europe? No.

5:20

Huh, OK. And

5:23

the general consensus is if you

5:25

want to learn about surfing, the

5:27

Hawaiian archipelago is one of the

5:29

best places to begin your journey.

5:31

Because that's where surfing has kind

5:33

of advanced the most. And

5:36

it's where its history is best

5:38

documented as a part, an essential

5:40

part of the culture there.

5:43

And it's not just a sport,

5:45

right? It has a

5:47

very spiritual and social significance as

5:49

well. Which means that it has

5:51

its own rules of etiquette. Ancient

5:55

Hawaiian society operated by

5:57

a code of rules and taboos

5:59

and. Surfing was part of

6:01

that, right? And so to

6:04

participate, there were

6:06

different levels. And you

6:08

started with the wood. The

6:10

wood of the tree that you carved your board

6:12

from was sacred, and before getting

6:14

to cut a tree, you

6:17

would have to make offerings to the plants.

6:19

And- I'm not making any jokes

6:21

here because I'm sincerely fascinated. And

6:24

traditionally, you could use koa

6:26

wood. You could

6:28

use breadfruit trees or willy-willy trees.

6:31

And all of these had different

6:33

cultural significances. And I assume, I

6:35

haven't looked at that, but I

6:38

assume that it's wood that's more

6:40

buoyant than others,

6:42

that you would want a wood that's

6:45

strong enough to hold your

6:47

weight, right? There's plenty of wood that you

6:49

couldn't do that on with a board as

6:51

thin as a surfboard, right?

6:53

That it would crack super easily. You

6:56

couldn't do, for example, balsa wood, you know

6:58

what I mean? It's snap in half, but

7:00

you don't want something that's heavy and hard

7:02

to move around because you'd have to carry

7:05

it. If you're royalty,

7:07

people carry it for you. Oh.

7:10

They also, for the waves, they prayed

7:12

for waves with the help of a

7:14

kahuna, which is a priest

7:16

who was an expert on

7:18

the behavior of the water. In

7:22

fact, the role of kahuna was

7:24

so deeply entrenched in the culture

7:26

that the surfing term, kahuna, is

7:28

slang for a very large wave.

7:31

I'm also looking at the properties of koa

7:33

wood. So when you

7:36

cut it down, right? So

7:38

it's called shrinking, right? When it

7:40

dries, it doesn't shrink as

7:43

much. When the tree, like going from

7:45

green to dry, wood, it

7:48

doesn't shrink as much. And so there's a

7:51

reduced risk of splitting and cracking as

7:53

it dries, as opposed

7:55

to other woods. So you can run

7:58

the risk of when you... You

8:00

get the splits in the wood as it

8:02

dries out. It doesn't happen as much with

8:04

koa. And it is a hardwood and has

8:07

high crush resistance and shock absorbance as

8:09

compared to walnut. But

8:11

it weighs 25% more and its

8:14

interlocking grain makes for an

8:16

exceptional figure. Its thin, light-colored

8:18

sapwood surrounds the hardwood that

8:20

woodworkers describe as lustrous, swirled,

8:23

marble. Beautiful. So

8:26

although there was certainly a hierarchy

8:28

to surfing... Oh, it can only

8:30

be found in Hawaii as well. So that's

8:32

another part that's considered very special and rare.

8:35

Like I said, although there was a social

8:37

hierarchy, everyone could surf. It

8:41

wasn't relegated to just men or women. Everybody

8:43

could surf. But the different

8:45

surfboards had different shapes and sizes depending

8:47

upon the surfer you were, the

8:50

type of surfer you were, and where

8:52

you stood in the community. So

8:54

where you stood on the board and where you stood

8:57

in the community. So

8:59

most Hawaiians would use

9:01

a kind of mid-size board that

9:03

look a lot like the short

9:05

boards used in surfing

9:07

today. Others would

9:10

use a kind of rounded

9:12

nose board, which is

9:14

finless. Sorry,

9:18

all of the boards used at that time

9:20

in Hawaii were finless. So that the rider

9:22

had to steer with their hands if

9:25

you want to turn. But

9:28

chieftains had huge,

9:30

huge boards called oleo boards.

9:34

And they were beautifully carved and twice as

9:36

long as today's long boards. Wow. Like

9:41

you said, very, very heavy. They

9:44

could weigh up to 140 pounds. Wait,

9:47

140? Yeah. Okay.

9:51

Well, I guess if you have a jeep to drive it down there

9:53

to the beach. Or several people to carry it for you. Yeah, that

9:55

makes a lot more sense. And

9:57

so even though it was staking,

10:00

That doesn't mean it was stuffy. People

10:03

love to watch. People would

10:05

swim and compete and place bets on things

10:07

like who could ride the furthest or the

10:09

fastest or catch the biggest wave, right? I

10:12

think that that is demonstrated in

10:15

surfing competitions today as well, right?

10:18

One of my favorite movies, see

10:20

if you can guess it. Does it surf up? It surfs

10:22

up. This is when, if you

10:24

haven't watched it, listeners, it's when some

10:27

penguins have a surf competition Not

10:29

only do they learn about themselves, they

10:31

learn about surfing, they learn about each

10:33

other. It's beautiful. I love it.

10:36

I just looked it up, a longboard,

10:38

like 8 to 11 feet, so

10:40

like twice that length. Yeah, that's amazing,

10:42

right? It's like as big as, you're

10:44

taking your home family on that. It's like a tour

10:46

bus. It's wild. You

10:49

know what else is wild? What? We're

10:51

going to take a break. It's not wild. That is wild.

11:03

Hello, sleepyheads. Sleeping

11:06

with Celebrities is your podcast pillow

11:08

pal. We talked to

11:10

remarkable people about unremarkable topics, all

11:13

to help you slow down your brain and

11:15

drift off to sleep. For instance,

11:17

we have the remarkable Neil Gaiman.

11:20

I'd always had a vague

11:22

interest in life culture,

11:25

food preparation. Sleeping

11:27

with Celebrities, hosted by me, John

11:30

Moe, on maximumfund.org

11:33

or wherever you get your podcasts. Night

11:36

night. It's

11:39

hard to explain what Jordan Jesse Go is about.

11:41

So I had my kids take a stab at

11:44

it. Probably weird stuff.

11:46

You talk about jobs that

11:49

are annoying. Mm-hmm. Business.

11:51

I think you probably learned your

11:53

lesson after talking about business a

11:55

couple of times. I don't have

11:57

jokes that I don't do. and

12:00

then there's no poison making. And

12:03

all of the podcasts

12:06

go away. Subscribe

12:09

to Jordan Jesse Go, a comedy show

12:12

for grownups. Okay,

12:16

so we got a big board. We got big boards, we

12:18

got big fun. We got big boards, we got

12:20

little boards, we got boards in between. Come on

12:22

down to Travis' board stores. Board

12:25

stores. Yeah, I had to make it rhyme legally.

12:29

So we have that

12:32

beautiful rich history. And then we

12:34

have white people. What? A

12:37

white man? I know. Europeans

12:39

started writing about surfing. European. Okay,

12:43

it was harsh, but.

12:46

I'm not gonna say here and be called Pian. In

12:49

1777, William Anderson, who

12:52

was a surgeon on Captain Cook's ship, observed

12:56

surfing in Tahiti. Can I

12:59

just say, this has nothing to do with

13:01

the story you're telling right now. But

13:04

whenever I hear Captain Cook's name, it

13:06

takes my brain a second to process

13:08

that that's a real person. Because

13:11

I think that there's a Captain Hook thing going

13:13

on. I don't know. It just seems like too

13:17

weird a name. It's like Captain Hook, but

13:19

he went to culinary school. I think that

13:21

that's what my brain is doing for some

13:23

reason. And every time I hear Captain

13:25

Cook, I'm like, oh, that's a real person. Okay, go

13:27

on. He wrote that,

13:30

quote, I could not help concluding

13:33

that this man, the man

13:35

that he was watching surfing, felt

13:37

the most supreme pleasure. So

13:39

he was like, hey, these dudes are having a great time.

13:42

Yeah. And he was a big fan, but

13:46

as we have discussed time and time

13:48

again, Christian missionaries have

13:50

a tendency to ruin everything.

13:53

Especially when it comes to Hawaii.

13:55

Yes. Yeah, in

13:58

which they heisted the. entire

14:00

country of Hawaii. Well missionaries

14:02

didn't heist the country, it

14:04

was businessmen. Well it led to that, eventually.

14:06

White businessmen, eventually. Eventually it led. Started with

14:09

missionaries, led to white businessmen. They

14:11

found it sinful because your body is out while

14:13

you're swimming, I know, right? And people were having

14:16

fun. Just saying it's sinful because people were having

14:18

fun, you could do it on a Sunday morning

14:20

or any time instead of going to church. It

14:22

was a fun thing that made people happy until

14:25

we had to kill it. People were taking bets

14:27

on it. No, I like that part. No,

14:30

they didn't like gambling either. Yeah, I'm not

14:32

even gonna dignify that with an answer because

14:34

listen, if I'm watching people surf and someone's

14:36

like $10, that guy falls off his board,

14:39

I'm taking a bet every time. Because

14:41

I want to see

14:43

that person succeed and

14:46

betting engages you in the sport more if you

14:48

don't care what sport's like me. But

14:51

they, certainly they

14:54

poo-pooed the surfing. You

14:56

didn't mean that as a pun? But in Polynesian culture there's

14:58

a poo-poo platter? Oh, that's right.

15:00

I didn't mean that. I meant that they

15:02

said it was bad. They gave a big

15:05

stinky face thumbs down to it. And definitely

15:07

other sacred parts of native Hawaiian culture, right?

15:09

You know that that was another part of

15:11

it too. Yeah. Right, of like,

15:13

oh, what's this? It's part of like a spirituality thing for

15:15

you that's not ours, meh,

15:18

beh, beh, beh. But that

15:20

didn't destroy surfing nearly as

15:22

much as the bacteria that

15:24

they brought with them. By

15:27

1890, Europeans and Americans

15:29

had brought so many new illnesses

15:31

with them to the Hawaiian archipelago

15:33

that they decimated the population. Ugh.

15:36

It's about to get a little more depressing. So let's

15:38

just strap in for just a second. I mean, I

15:40

probably should have seen that coming, but. Diseases

15:43

such as yellow fever, measles,

15:46

influenza, and a host of others

15:49

took the population of Hawaii. Well, you fever? No.

15:53

From probably hundreds of

15:55

thousands to about 40,000. Oh

15:59

my God, so. more than decimate. In

16:01

the loosest sense of the word. I'm

16:04

trying to think about like a

16:07

fraction of people left. Unlike

16:11

we mentioned earlier, the monarchy of Hawaii was

16:13

overthrown in 1893. In

16:16

the worst way, by the way, I'm sure we, I

16:18

know we've talked about it before because we did an

16:20

episode on- We have in the worst way. But like,

16:23

if you don't know about the

16:25

way that basically Hawaii was

16:28

stolen from Hawaiians, like

16:31

even dragging America into it and

16:33

like the American president being like,

16:35

I don't know, what? And

16:37

then I'm like, okay, we'll wait for the

16:39

next president to ratify it. It's messed up.

16:41

Okay. Five years later,

16:44

the United States annexed the island. But-

16:48

And that whole time the queen was kept in captivity.

16:50

Important to note. Yes. They

16:52

kept their surfing culture alive

16:55

and they fanned the flames of the surfing revival.

16:57

And the way that they did that is

17:00

they took surfing overseas. In

17:03

1907, a man named George Freeth traveled

17:05

to the West Coast of the United

17:07

States, giving surfing demonstrations in

17:10

Southern California where he was nicknamed the

17:12

Hawaiian wonder. I like that. It's very

17:14

cool. And then in

17:16

1914, Olympic surfer, Duke, please

17:19

excuse me, I'm trying very hard, Kahana

17:21

Mokko made his way to

17:24

Australia and New Zealand and gave his own

17:26

surfing demonstrations, which attracted enormous crowds and played

17:28

important- Oh yes, big in Australia, right? In

17:30

the swimming pool too there as well. Yeah.

17:34

But not everyone who loved the sport had

17:37

the best reasons for promoting it.

17:39

Wrong reasons. Wrong reasons. A

17:42

former South Carolina resident named Alexander

17:44

Hume Ford moved to Hawaii and

17:46

fell in love with the sport.

17:48

But he was, let

17:50

us say, a turd about it. Strong

17:53

words. He wanted Hawaii to become a state, right?

17:55

He was really- Was one of those. He was

17:58

one of those, but he was a world. because

18:01

he's racist. He didn't

18:03

like the indigenous people and the Asian

18:05

people there. So he fell in love

18:07

with surfing, if it weren't for all

18:09

the people. Yes. Okay. And

18:12

he used surfing as a way to

18:14

attract more Americans to Hawaii, hoping

18:16

they would come in as guests and then be so,

18:18

and then fall in love with

18:21

the scenery and the island life

18:23

and surfing. He used surfing as

18:25

a means of colonization. Indeed, indeed.

18:28

And numerous writers and filmmakers and

18:30

travel enthusiasts hopped on board with

18:33

this dumb plan. And

18:35

so he had a big hand

18:37

in promoting those two surfers I

18:39

mentioned, for

18:41

the wrong reasons, to try and

18:43

get people to come to Hawaii. Yeah.

18:48

He wasn't entirely successful. I

18:50

mean, not only did he not live-

18:52

But he was entirely stinky. Yes, entirely

18:54

stinky. He did not live to see

18:57

Hawaii become a state, but

19:00

Hawaii remains one of the most

19:02

radically and culturally diverse states in

19:04

the union. And the most radical.

19:07

Yeah. Actually, is, hmm,

19:10

is it radical or tubular? We'll

19:13

go through some of those too.

19:15

It's Mondo for sure. For sure.

19:17

So there are now tens of

19:19

millions of enthusiasts worldwide and

19:21

surfing has even become an Olympic sport. Yeah.

19:25

So if you would like to learn to surf,

19:29

I would suggest that you do do a quick

19:31

Google, learn about the sacred history.

19:33

Watch some YouTube videos. There are some really

19:35

cool- Don't learn to surf from YouTube videos.

19:37

That was a check. But the

19:39

picture of someone on their surfboard in the

19:42

water with their phone below, like, okay, where

19:44

do we start is very funny to me.

19:47

There are wave chants, there are

19:49

board carving rituals, and

19:51

there are lots of ways that you

19:53

can support native Hawaiians who keep these

19:55

traditions alive today. Local

19:58

surf shops. are

20:00

the least that you can do instead of

20:02

going to the big corporations. And

20:05

you can learn about movements

20:07

to decentralize the whiteness of

20:09

the sport. Right. And

20:12

two places to do that. You

20:15

can go to Project Decolonize

20:17

the Surf and the

20:19

Black Surfing Association, because it's

20:21

it's really cool and

20:24

everyone should learn to ride the wave. But

20:26

it's so much sweeter when you

20:28

are respectful and you honor those

20:30

that came before. Indeed. Now,

20:33

let's talk about some etiquette.

20:36

Indeed. Respect

20:38

is the name of the game

20:40

and everything that you do to

20:42

enjoy your time surfing is all

20:44

about respect. Right of way exists

20:46

in more ways than one. So

20:49

the surfer closest to the peak

20:51

of the wave always gets priority.

20:54

And so there are no, quote,

20:56

drop ins. I

20:58

recall hearing that several times in

21:00

the surfing competition in the movie

21:02

I talked about where

21:04

one person drops in on another person's

21:07

wave and everyone's like, whoa, right? So

21:10

do that. You don't do not do

21:12

that. In most

21:15

cases, you can't have two

21:17

surfers on the same wave

21:19

going the same direction because

21:21

it's dangerous. Right. Because

21:24

you are the way that you disturb

21:26

the wave when you surf can also

21:28

disturb the other surfer. You make a

21:30

wake basically. Exactly. And imagine it's like

21:33

you're pushing like a shopping trolley, right?

21:36

It's a shopping cart and there's a

21:38

big divot and there's a big like

21:41

rut in dirt and the

21:43

wheel hits that. And what happens? That's

21:45

the kind of thing that happen on

21:48

water with your surfboard. Right. And

21:50

so you shouldn't paddle around someone to

21:52

get better access to the wave. That's

21:55

also disrespectful. That's called snaking. So there's

21:57

usually a lineup of people waiting to

21:59

surf. surf. And the furthest

22:01

one out gets priority.

22:05

Although some long borders might

22:07

not use this rule very

22:09

wisely, they should leave some

22:11

waves to the short borders,

22:13

right? So, you know, there

22:16

is a theory to who

22:18

picks up what wave. Do not throw

22:20

your board. That is also very dangerous.

22:22

You should wear a leash, which is

22:25

a tether on your

22:27

ankle to the board so that your board doesn't

22:29

get lost or hurt people. Communicate

22:31

with other surfers what you will do. For

22:34

example, if two surfers are sitting in the

22:36

middle of the peak and a wave opens

22:38

to both sides, like an A, right,

22:41

they should tell each other which direction they're

22:43

going in, right, so that they don't cross

22:46

paths or do things like that. That is

22:48

an example where two people

22:50

could ride the same wave because the

22:52

trajectory is going on opposite ways. And

22:55

let's see, do not dive in

22:57

head first because you could be surfing

23:00

over a reef, but

23:02

you also don't know how deep it

23:04

is at any point. So

23:06

you use your surfboard to protect your

23:08

impact, right, and protect your head with

23:10

your arms if you fall off or wipe

23:12

out. I would also say, listen,

23:16

this is me, Travis is a dad,

23:18

not me, Travis is a 90s professional,

23:20

free time gold medal winning surfer. I

23:24

also won gold and silver in the same year one time.

23:28

But I know in movies and TV shows you

23:30

see people going out early in the morning or

23:32

something by themselves and having a very peaceful and

23:34

serene, like I'm just getting it in.

23:37

I would say that I

23:39

would look at that and if I found out my friend was

23:41

doing that, I'd be like, if you're going to

23:43

go by yourself, which please don't go by yourself,

23:46

go with somebody, please let people know where you're

23:48

going when you're going. Kind of like hiking, that

23:50

same kind of deal. I agree. Of

23:53

like, call me when your time is done so

23:55

that if you get hurt or something and I

23:57

don't get a call, I know, right? Like, because

23:59

if you're far, like if you were

24:01

to get knocked unconscious going underwater or something,

24:03

you hit your head on a rock and

24:05

nobody's there, it's a

24:07

problem and I worry about you, you know

24:09

what I mean? So be cautious, you can

24:12

still do it, have fun. It's

24:14

just I worry about you. Respect the

24:16

beach, respect the ocean and respect

24:18

the other surfers, right? You

24:21

know, the locals, obviously they have

24:23

priority and if an outsider

24:26

visits your beach, share the

24:28

love with them too, right? You

24:31

know, everybody's bound to wipe out a few

24:33

times, it's possible to look silly. Maybe

24:35

you'll get a little good natured ripping, but you

24:37

know, enjoy the sun and the ocean. I would

24:40

be willing to bet the coolest thing, the

24:42

coolest thing you can do, I've been thinking about this a

24:45

lot lately and this seems like a tangent, but go with

24:47

me here. One of the reasons I like

24:49

Ryan Gosling as an actor so much is

24:52

that Ryan Gosling is clearly a

24:54

handsome, cool dude who

24:56

has absolutely no issue being a

24:58

goofy, doofy dude on screen. If

25:01

you look at Ken and Barbie and you look at

25:04

Fall Guy and the nice guys and stuff

25:07

like that, right? He's not trying to be

25:09

cool. And like anyways,

25:11

I think the coolest thing anyone can do

25:13

is be like Ryan Gosling. Yeah, I mean,

25:16

ideally to be Ryan guy, but I think

25:18

the coolest thing that someone can do is

25:20

to be okay, like

25:23

making mistakes being goofy and everything and

25:26

not make a big deal

25:28

out of it because like the

25:30

only way you get better is by failing. That

25:33

said, if you're new to the surfing

25:35

scene, don't try to roll up using a bunch of lingo,

25:38

right? You gotta find out what's happening

25:40

now, gotta let it

25:42

get into you naturally, you know

25:44

what I mean? But there are

25:46

several words that now everyone uses,

25:49

right? Jibular, radical, mondo sick, gnarly,

25:52

things like that. Stoked. Now

25:54

here's the thing about gnarly, gnarly's gonna trip you

25:56

up because it's like sick, right?

25:58

Or bad. Good it

26:00

can mean both things. Yes, like that was

26:02

an early wipeout I was in the early

26:04

ride both things can be true tubular It

26:07

goes the wave when it crawls over makes

26:09

a tube right a tubular wave is

26:11

literally a tube You surf

26:14

down the middle of it. It's really cool.

26:16

I learned about that from point break. Yeah based on

26:18

my life Did you know that is it yeah? Well

26:21

in college up is a star quarterback

26:23

and then oh my leg blew out

26:25

senior year Yeah, they gave me an

26:27

FBI agent hmm, but now pro server.

26:29

Uh-huh. Yeah, yeah So

26:32

loosely fast and furious is based on my life

26:34

too fast and furious is based on point break

26:36

back back to surfer lingo Okay, come come back.

26:38

No. Yeah, I've been here come back Here's

26:42

one that I recall from the movie

26:44

that I told you guys about caught

26:46

inside So that

26:48

means when you are caught between the

26:50

shoreline and the breaking zone without anywhere

26:52

to paddle They say that you are

26:54

caught inside So it happens if you

26:56

are wiping out on a wave and

26:58

then you start paddling back towards your

27:00

place in the lineup, right? That's

27:03

it's very challenging right

27:06

to come back because you usually have to

27:08

like Work through the

27:10

waves by like diving under them

27:12

or and like keep paddling

27:14

really hard Say excuse

27:16

me a quiver

27:20

Quiver is a collection of surfboards

27:22

hmm. Makes sense cool, right? Here's

27:24

one goofy footed versus regular footed

27:27

What do you think that means? It's the

27:29

way you stand exactly so the right foot

27:31

in front and the left foot behind is

27:33

called a goofy stance and A

27:36

left foot forward and the right foot on the back

27:38

is a regular stance name

27:41

for George Gief who Originated

27:43

the goofy footed George Gief famous

27:46

famous surfer. Oh I

27:49

think Disney made a short cartoon about

27:51

George Gief learning to surf Look

27:55

up George Gief G E E F wipe

27:58

out. We already mentioned it's when you fall

28:00

off your board while surfing a wave. You

28:02

can also, quote, go over the

28:04

falls, which is a type of wipeout, where

28:07

the surfer gets sucked back over to the top

28:09

of the wave and then free falls over

28:12

the lip. Whee! I'm

28:14

gonna whee! Yeah. There are

28:16

different types of boards, right? So there's

28:18

a thruster, which means that you are

28:20

surfing a board with three fins. There's

28:23

a twin fin, which has the two

28:25

fins in the back. And now there's

28:27

the six-five fin. And it's a close

28:29

to shave a surfer can get. This

28:32

is a new one that I didn't know. Hang

28:34

10. Do you know what this is?

28:36

It's when your feet go to the end of the board

28:38

and all 10 toes are over it. What? How did you

28:40

know that? I'm a f... Baby! It's

28:44

because I've been surfing since I was

28:46

two years old. You have not. Stop it.

28:49

How else would I know what hang 10 is? Maybe

28:51

it's in one of those movies. I've never

28:53

seen a movie in my life. I'm too busy on the beach. Shredding.

28:58

All right. And there's one more, which

29:01

is a term you should know if

29:03

you are planning to visit Costa Rica,

29:05

pure Vida. It's kind

29:07

of a greeting, but it's also a way of life,

29:10

right? It's a term used to express optimism

29:13

and happiness and living your life. And

29:16

once you surf, You

29:18

live in that pure life. You're living that pure life. That's

29:20

right. Yeah. I need

29:22

to get down to the beach. I haven't surfed since last week. Miss

29:25

it. That Ohio beach. Down on the

29:27

Ohio river, catching the wake

29:30

from all the river boats, waving at

29:32

the gamblers. Yeah, man. I'm gambling with

29:34

my life every day out there, just

29:36

cutting and chopping it up.

29:38

Yeah, man. I'm revolutionizing the sport

29:40

out here every day and no one's noticing, but

29:42

that's the life. That's the life.

29:45

You know what I mean? Hey, everybody. Thank you

29:47

so much. That is radical, tubular. Thank

29:49

you. That means a lot to me that you're

29:51

making an effort to reach across and learn

29:53

the lingo finally after being married for 46

29:55

years. That's nice. Bet you

29:58

would make an effort to see

30:00

the... My way you're you're sure

30:02

goofy today goofy footed. I wouldn't

30:05

That's not my style and if you ever If

30:07

you ever showed up to support me at one of my

30:10

many many competitions I can beat three times a week if

30:13

you showed up to one of them It's

30:16

okay. No you go to a girls soccer

30:18

game you support BB, but you want support

30:20

my okay. It's fine. It's fine. It's fine I'm

30:22

listeners. I hope you've enjoyed Travis's elaborate ruse. Oh

30:24

my god. I've never been more offended Thank

30:26

you everybody for listening. Thank you to our

30:28

editor Rachel without whom we could not make

30:30

the show Thank you to our researcher Alex

30:32

about whom we could not make the show and

30:35

thank you for you for listening You're

30:37

radical your your radical dudes and

30:39

do debts and do those which

30:42

is the non-binary term I've just invented

30:44

for dudes dudes do that do those

30:47

dude arenas dude duties

30:51

Let's Say

30:53

go to bit.ly Macaroid

30:56

tours to see all of the places were doing

30:58

live shows my brother my brother me and adventure

31:00

zone for the rest of the year We're gonna

31:02

be at Rose City comic-con that was just announced

31:04

We're gonna be at Gen Con as well and

31:06

doing live shows all over the ding-dang place check

31:08

that out Go to Macroy

31:11

merch comm check out the merch there. What

31:13

else Teresa? Thank you to Brent Brent of

31:15

lost black for writing our theme music which

31:17

is available as a ringtone where those are

31:19

found also Thank you to brew hot Betty

31:21

pinnit photography for the cover picture of our

31:23

fan run Facebook group Schmanner's Fanners if you

31:26

love to give and get excellent advice from

31:28

other fans go ahead and join that group

31:30

today as always we are taking your topic

31:32

submissions your questions your queries your idioms

31:35

send in those idioms to Schmanner's cast at

31:37

Gmail comm and say hi to Alex because

31:39

she reads every single one and that's gonna

31:42

do it for us to join us again

31:44

next week No RSVP required you've been listening

31:46

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31:49

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