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issued by Goldman Sachs Bank

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apply. Before. We begin.

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This episode contained some adult language.

0:36

It's early. two thousand and Twenty

0:38

four and a movie premiere in

0:40

London. And like it any movie

0:42

premiere. There are fans shouting and

0:44

photographer taking pictures of actors posing

0:46

on the red carpet. Except at

0:48

this particular movie premiere, there is

0:51

no red carpet. There's just sound

0:53

because this is the premier of

0:55

Dune to a movie set on

0:57

a desert planet. Covered in

0:59

sand. Imposing on this

1:01

sand is the actress is and

1:03

day I was wearing an outfit

1:06

that the little unusual to she

1:08

showed up in this like amazing

1:10

vintage Terry move way it looks

1:12

like she's the robot from metropolis.

1:14

It's just incredible. Every travel mint

1:17

is the host of the podcast

1:19

articles of interest. Well basically it's

1:21

like a sexy robots you I

1:23

mean she looked like see three

1:25

piano but super hot super her

1:28

and glamorous and silver just just

1:30

incredible. Then day

1:32

I was photographed on the sand

1:35

carpet with all the usual suspects

1:37

or costars, the director and also

1:39

the person who pick out her

1:42

incredible robot suit. She.

1:44

Was. Posing. Next

1:46

to a figure who she is often seen

1:48

posing next year which is her stylist, La

1:50

Roche, who is now famous in his own

1:52

right. Law. Roach has

1:55

one point four million followers

1:57

on Instagram and he appears

1:59

regularly. In the fashion press and even

2:01

that some questions of his own at the

2:03

dune for me I know how. Did you

2:05

run down the world's. Rarest

2:08

of since it's mostly on and

2:10

have club in the building. as

2:12

everyone else and I saw this.

2:15

Law. Is a particularly successful

2:17

example of the celebrity stylist

2:20

a stylus for celebrities. Who

2:23

has become a celebrity in their own. right?

2:25

I feel you see them everywhere

2:27

now. I feel like they're designing

2:29

like shoe collection. They're hawking products,

2:32

they're writing Christmas wish lists for

2:34

the New York Times. They're just

2:36

celebrity stylus, sir. Are a thing.

2:39

They're everywhere. Robert. Downey Jr.

2:41

even shouted his out his Oscar

2:43

acceptance speech. I'm afraid my stylistic

2:45

is no one else does. Face

2:49

Erica, Thank you very much.

2:52

And at some point they're very

2:54

ubiquity started. To make every curious.

2:56

When I see celebrities posing with

2:59

their stylus proudly. As

3:01

like what is that? Who

3:03

are these stylus And where

3:05

did they come from? What

3:07

is that solve? This

3:17

is decoder ring I will have

3:19

hacked like a manager or an

3:21

agent or a publicist. A Silas

3:23

has become a kind of must

3:25

have accessory for well dressed a

3:27

list celebrities is is expected to

3:29

have hired someone to select the

3:31

closer were at all of their

3:33

public appearances for this is not

3:35

always. The case. In today's

3:38

episode, every travel mental guide us through

3:40

the collapse of a certain kind of

3:42

Hollywood glamour into the rise of a

3:44

growing of financially. Rewarding relationship between

3:47

fashion designers and celebrity

3:49

culture. And then onto the

3:51

explosion in Red Carpet event patrolled

3:54

by Sasha. Believe that all

3:56

helped create this new

3:58

occupation. So. hey, I'm

4:00

decoder ring. How did

4:03

Silas become a job? Applecart

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issued by Goldman Sachs Bank Usa

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Salt Lake City branch subject to

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credit approval. Term Supply. So.

5:04

A rate, where does the story of

5:06

the stylus begin? So the sorry the

5:08

stylist starts before the stylist was really

5:10

like a twinkle in any ones I

5:13

were talking about like the turn of

5:15

the last century. Through. The

5:17

Nineteen Twenties. Hi Sasson! Meant.

5:20

Paris. Like fancy designer

5:23

clothes all just came from Paris.

5:25

these handmade, hand sewn garments that

5:27

most Americans would probably never be

5:30

able to see in person. I

5:32

mean these words gowns buys Coco

5:34

Chanel and Christian Dior. And they

5:37

were absurdly expensive. Their one of

5:39

a kind. And so, in the

5:41

early days of Hollywood when the

5:44

movies were silent, everybody onscreen would

5:46

be wearing these exciting, exotic elite

5:49

clothes. And this is why everyone.

5:51

Went to the movies or touted as

5:53

extremely iconic fashion reporter Terry Again, she

5:55

the Fashion beat at Wall Street Journal.

5:57

She's a hero of mine. And.

6:00

The me that cinema was the main way.

6:02

That Americans got to experience

6:04

fashion you went to see.

6:06

Fancy version, you know, incredible

6:09

wardrobes, And that's when you

6:11

get to see all the new different

6:13

styles even though they didn't necessarily. Know who

6:15

the designers were. They knew that the clothes came from

6:17

Paris. And and as a selling point like

6:19

check it out we have the latest fashions from France.

6:22

Does. A sort of the way

6:24

it was that Hollywood was more

6:26

or less interwoven with the French

6:28

fashion system until. Nineteen. Twenty

6:30

Nine. When. It happened in

6:33

Paris was they had come out with

6:35

a new look of close to him

6:37

lines were lower emin in it was

6:39

a complete. Different Silhouette. All the

6:42

French fashion designers were shifting away

6:44

from this like care free. Slapper

6:46

Style and it left the studios who

6:48

had already sought footage for movies with

6:50

these like short flapper dresses in the

6:52

lurch in other movies are slated to

6:54

come out and some way they look

6:56

at dated like they weren't offering the

6:58

latest in France. Fasten. Anymore And it

7:00

was like oh man. moviegoers were

7:03

paying twenty five cents to be

7:05

entertained with the latest. And. He

7:07

will not see in the raiders. They

7:09

were saying prose that were dated well

7:11

that movie studios. Like oh my god would with

7:13

on a do. And so they

7:16

just. Figured out okay we are no

7:18

longer use in Paris to Choosier in

7:20

the movies. We are now going

7:22

to. Establish Hollywood and

7:24

not Paris. As. Assassin

7:26

Capital of the world. So. Hollywood.

7:29

Sever. Of size of Paris. perusing to tour

7:32

was more or less. Band you know they

7:34

were like we. We do not abide by

7:36

the system anymore. We will not follow the

7:38

seasons, will not follow the chance because it's

7:40

not a good investment. You know you never

7:43

know, never know. when we were not idea of the

7:45

way it again yeah the guy you what? We're not going

7:47

to I played again and so they all pretty

7:49

much turn to their in house customers who are

7:51

really talented and they're like okay as you make

7:53

the close. And.

7:57

So meaning of the surgeon.

8:00

The costume department in the studio

8:02

start creating this very like face

8:05

timeless style for their after and

8:07

it's totally worth and you can

8:09

close your eyes and you can

8:12

imagine. It it's like blue T.

8:14

Satin gowns and elegant three

8:16

piece suit and we now

8:18

call this Hollywood some feeling

8:20

even now. On red carpet they'll

8:22

be like she looks so old Hollywood

8:24

usually when someone is where exactly like

8:26

a fly but like close fitting some

8:28

art deco detailing and that is coming

8:30

from the nineteen thirties when the movie

8:32

that's also starting to talk exactly so

8:34

that the movies. Are talking. They're.

8:37

Wearing this like pretty consistent

8:39

style. And. Now we

8:42

are solidly in the era. Of

8:44

the studio system. Last and

8:46

imaginative, one of the studios

8:48

free from another world. a

8:50

world of incomparable months and

8:53

briefly. So. Each studio

8:55

is basically like a self contained

8:57

factory and it contains all the

8:59

parts it needs to make the

9:01

movies. These have set designers, you

9:04

have directors, you have a makeup

9:06

artist, and you costume designers all.

9:08

Working. Continuously to turn out

9:10

movies on behalf of the different studios

9:13

and the actors are actually on contract.

9:15

It's like a whole system. Yeah

9:17

exactly. And so this means that

9:19

like because the actors are there

9:21

in house and the customers are

9:24

there in house. The customers can

9:26

craft very consistent look. For

9:28

actors across all their movies.

9:30

The. One thing about these costume designers in

9:33

the studios. These. People were really good

9:35

at what they did. These. Crows

9:37

were, they were engineered for

9:39

each particular actors. And.

9:41

As after his head like a flat san

9:44

a year or. Seat in her boobs.

9:46

You know they would pad things. So.

9:48

These designers were really really clever

9:50

and desk and does understood how

9:53

to make and actors were good.

9:56

So. Take Joan Crawford, for example,

9:58

her whole persona. In all her

10:00

films as As You Is. Really tough to get

10:02

out. Get your think that any thoughts on

10:04

them into the season. You with. Part

10:08

of that was you always are wearing these suits

10:10

shoulder. Pads and That look was

10:12

designed for her by the costume

10:14

designer. At Mcm, his name was

10:16

Gilbert Adrian. When Adrian put her

10:18

in those strong shoulder pads. And

10:21

that really strong look that really

10:23

did resonate with lot of women.

10:26

Because. They like wow, you know Joan Crawford? You

10:28

know she's really bad ass. And. Make sense

10:30

of the costume designers would be designing. Costumes.

10:33

For. Movies, That's their job. But the thing

10:36

that was so interesting about this moment

10:38

is they're also designing. Clothes,

10:40

For the celebrities to were not

10:42

on. Screen of the time so

10:44

seamlessly when the city as were

10:46

in the business of crafting every

10:48

single part of any celebrities. Like

10:51

guess they'd be like your name will

10:53

be Rita Hayworth and we will make

10:55

you like sexy but in an approachable

10:57

and you know they sort of suicides

11:00

create be a whole person. I love

11:02

you of romantic partner to give you

11:04

a story exactly and of part of

11:06

that is then we'll tell you exactly

11:09

they were so invested in fully crafting.

11:11

Their. Entire persona. I bet

11:14

they closed them for almost

11:16

everything they needed going out

11:18

to dinner at Premier's just

11:20

living their lives, even. Their.

11:22

Wedding Dresses A wedding of through Hollywood

11:24

film stars. Big pile of goldblum though

11:27

and what a happy day for the

11:29

couple! And so some

11:31

of the house costumers.

11:34

Got. Like as. Famous.

11:36

Arguably. As some of these French

11:39

designers, for example, like eat a hairdresser,

11:41

Customer at Paramount and she became really famous

11:43

in her own right. And use of

11:45

images in the Incredibles. This is a sub

11:47

so it's valid are you have to be

11:49

seen as some of the now and I

11:51

mean Edna mode is like supposed to be

11:54

to that, exactly. So Hollywood is totally separate.

11:56

From France. Fasten to make sure that their

11:58

movies don't fall out of style. But.

12:00

The ceiling is also mutual like

12:02

friends fashion. Does. Not want

12:05

to be in the movies. There was

12:07

a moments when Coco Chanel came to

12:09

Hollywood in the thirtieth and she was

12:11

like she couldn't hack it. She left

12:13

the your would dress like as you

12:15

said of high end celebrities like Marlene

12:17

Dietrich. Bet. By. And large

12:19

Like his fancy upper crust French clients

12:22

did not want him dressing movie actors.

12:24

I mean this was consider these are

12:26

like very. Popular Yes and God is

12:28

not a high end the door fashion.

12:31

So Friends Fastened does not like

12:33

Hollywood and Hollywood does not like

12:35

French fashion And Hollywood isn't that

12:37

doing this thing called Hollywood Style

12:39

which is being made by costume

12:41

designers and they are doing it

12:43

everywhere. on screen, off screen. Yeah,

12:45

and they keep doing that until.

12:48

Everything falls apart. The

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14:41

Okay, so under the studio system, stars

14:43

were more or less cared for, cared

14:45

for, controlled, however

14:47

you want to put it, in like every single way.

14:49

They never had to worry about what they would wear.

14:52

And then the studio system fell apart. Right? Initially

14:55

it's a series of lawsuits, but over a period of

14:57

like 10 to 15 years, this whole factory system of

15:00

like assembly lining your movies,

15:02

it's not allowed anymore. And so sort of

15:04

by the late 60s, they no longer have

15:06

actors on contract. They no longer have directors

15:08

on contract. Everyone's sort of

15:11

becoming freelance, including of course the costume

15:13

designers. Right. And because

15:15

everyone is a freelancer now, the stars are

15:17

kind of on their own. And

15:19

they have to begin to send

15:22

for themselves kind of for

15:24

the first time in Hollywood history, which means

15:26

that the stars have to go

15:28

shopping. And since they'd never

15:30

had to shop, they weren't very

15:32

good at it. Frankly. This

15:35

is Dana Thomas, author of many excellent

15:38

fashion books, including Deluxe, How

15:40

Luxury Lost Its Luster. And

15:42

I spoke with her about this very particular

15:44

moment when suddenly movie stars have

15:46

to try to figure out what

15:48

to wear because they had been

15:51

dressed by the studios for

15:53

so long. They had a certain style

15:56

that had been developed for them, but

15:58

that didn't necessarily mean that they had. in

16:00

a style and and suddenly you

16:03

saw like wow Barb Streisand isn't looking as fabulous

16:05

as she did in the early 60s you know

16:07

she was just kind of showing up in pantsuits

16:12

generally in the 60s and 70s it's a

16:15

more casual period people are

16:17

dressed down and even on screen

16:19

the stories are not about like the

16:21

glamorous lives of the rich and famous

16:23

the stories are more about normal people who

16:25

are dressed normally you talking to me ladi

16:28

da la la and

16:31

stars are like they're even buying up it's

16:33

from like normal department stores what you could

16:36

see a celebrity at Saks getting something

16:38

that they might wear to the

16:40

Oscars while it was lovely

16:42

to see people looking like themselves rather

16:44

than what the Hollywood machine

16:46

had crafted it should be their public

16:48

image it was also sometimes so casual

16:51

that you were like could we make

16:53

a little bit more of an effort this is supposed

16:55

to be a nice event by

16:58

the 1980s Hollywood was starting

17:00

to agree with Dana casual

17:02

was going out of style we're

17:05

talking coke Gordon Gekko money Wall

17:07

Street Reagan like it's like glamours

17:10

back baby like big shoulders gowns

17:12

like a lot of money like money is back you

17:15

want to be like that riffing in money but the

17:17

stars are still on their own and basically on their

17:19

own they started

17:24

to make some unfortunate decision

17:26

and that's when we

17:28

had real fashion

17:30

horrors on the red carpet

17:33

it's the 61st annual Academy

17:35

Awards I remember

17:38

watching Oscars were hilarious that's Terry

17:40

Egan's again because you'd see all

17:43

these celebrities and just they would come

17:45

up with anything more

17:49

and Bruce Willis Give

17:51

me more, Give me more

17:53

more bike shorts to the

17:55

Oscars and everybody was laughing

17:57

like crazy like how could

17:59

you. The Worth: Something like that you

18:01

saw us had a weird get up

18:03

with. Him

18:06

basinger of words express to

18:08

Design herself. That's like half

18:10

long sleeve half shorts. Is doing is

18:12

that avant garde are just a. Big,

18:15

you know without with. Jodie Foster In

18:17

Nineteen Eighty Nine. When she won

18:19

an Oscar for the Accused. This is such a

18:22

big deal in my life is as simple

18:24

there is wearing this like powder blue dress

18:26

with the bigger though in the back and

18:28

means he was like a baby doll. it's

18:30

it's not very sophisticated the i mean that

18:33

was like a bad problem bridesmaid's dress it's

18:35

he just search. I remember watching those oscars

18:37

and you to server like. Horses

18:40

she would. Say. Jodie

18:44

Foster was very insulted by all

18:46

the hate that her cream puffs

18:48

blue prom dress got. to see

18:50

picked it out herself in Milan

18:53

and see thought it was really

18:55

beautiful and I think it was

18:57

very vulnerable thing for sars to

18:59

like, show their true tastes and

19:01

to get completely raced over the

19:03

coals. I think that most of

19:05

us equate celebrities was having lotta

19:07

style but there to the. Ordinary people

19:10

like the rest of us. And a

19:12

lot of them. May. Look good

19:14

because they were. Wardrobe to certain

19:16

way for a movie. But they

19:18

don't really have any in a style so they

19:20

needed somebody to help them out. And someone

19:22

would come to help them out. This

19:24

new. Upcoming. Designer. Name:

19:27

Giorgio Armani, part of

19:29

of yes some. Now we

19:31

think of Giorgio Armani as like this

19:33

you know up there with the Or

19:36

and Chanel as as kind of like

19:38

classic bread the avatar he was really

19:40

separate so our money was as young

19:42

upstarts is not based in France his

19:44

base out of Milan and his style

19:46

was also totally different. When you think

19:48

about you know the eighties. Had all these

19:50

like big structured power. Suits He was making.

19:53

These suits that were very loose. They

19:55

were made of linen. They were they

19:57

were breathe a bull. They. Were in

19:59

or. Own and weren't like black

20:02

and shiny. They have a glamour.

20:04

They have been a lawn and everybody

20:06

looked good in his clothes. But

20:08

our money was really small. You could

20:10

only by his clothes at Barney's in

20:13

New York, but this small group of

20:15

people in Hollywood were like sitting on

20:17

to this nice. Little known

20:20

designer. And they were

20:22

mostly people who were not on

20:24

camera. There are a lot as

20:26

powerful agents and directors, and. One

20:29

of these fans was John Travolta

20:31

as manager The Sky Bob Le

20:33

Monde and Travolta was hired by

20:36

Director Paul Schrader to plane this

20:38

new movie called American Gigolo and.

20:41

Le. Mans said you know. You.

20:43

Should get that character to wear these

20:45

suits. He's Giorgio Armani suits of his

20:47

posts be a gigolo, nice puzzle a

20:49

great hot and sexy and modern and

20:52

fabulous. his be were an Armani suits

20:54

and then. Travel to met with our

20:56

money, went to Milan he did sitting saw this and

20:58

then he dropped out of the movie to go make

21:00

Urban Cowboy. And. Schrader

21:02

hired as unknown actor. Named Richard

21:04

Gere and Richard Than put on

21:07

the Mice and. Fox

21:10

often a nice big hotel's

21:12

run into women for foreign

21:14

countries mainly transfer. May

21:18

hire you. Armani

21:24

see sales skyrocket when this

21:26

movie comes out. And so

21:28

they are like okay, this Hollywood thing, it's through and

21:30

lover as and so then they went on. To. His

21:32

clothes the cast of the Untouchables

21:35

again sales go up. These are

21:37

seeing this rocket like connection between

21:39

his clothes and the movies. This

21:42

is the first time anybody, it's sort

21:44

of. So the two together and realized

21:46

that this was a marketing platform. So

21:49

our money has discovered the power of

21:51

celebrity in a way that nobody else

21:53

really had yet. like Snow and You

21:55

Are Were still refusing to dress celebrities.

21:57

The one notable example. Was at like Audrey

21:59

Hepburn with draft by you Fancy. But that's

22:01

like the exception that proves

22:03

the rule. This was not

22:05

something that established designers did

22:07

except. Our on he decides

22:09

to like make this whole thing he decides to go

22:12

all and he's like or a hollywood will be the

22:14

way. To establish my brand. So.

22:16

He hired this fabulous woman named

22:18

Wanda Mcdaniel, who had been a

22:20

journalist working at The Herald Examiner.

22:22

Covering. Celebrities: Giorgio Armani

22:25

hired her and said. I'm

22:27

giving you one thing to do and that is the. Dress.

22:30

These celebrities who really need help

22:32

and who could look so much

22:34

better. And. Hope who to see?

22:36

Call but Jodie Foster. And as like, hey,

22:38

I know that a lot of shit. For.

22:41

The to to to hesitated address. Let let

22:43

me take care of it. Let Armani

22:45

dress you can buy will hook you up.

22:47

If she said oh god please take this

22:49

burden off my shoulders I guess for the

22:52

rest my like please just. Help Help

22:54

Help. One, the mckenna start

22:56

calling every by sit next to you want

22:58

us to take care of you come into

23:00

our warm embrace like we got him. So

23:03

the next year Giorgio Armani dress about four

23:05

or five. As

23:07

was on the red carpet in

23:10

these long pure spare columns in

23:12

very solid colors. that which is

23:14

the right color for each woman.

23:17

With some sparkle but not

23:19

too much sparkle. Their hair

23:21

beautiful but not overly formal.

23:23

He looked just. Sued.

23:25

For and suddenly everyone's gaga in.

23:27

That was the moment Women's Wear

23:29

Daily did this headline and. They

23:32

call their oscars the Armani

23:34

Awards because. In Ninety One every.

23:37

Every celebrity who was worth

23:39

something was were an Armani

23:41

men and women to narrow

23:43

it all sorts. nagar Glenn

23:45

close so whole game. And

23:48

so Armani to start getting a lot

23:50

of attention. but he is crafting. These

23:52

celebrities to look so elegant

23:55

and and stately and. One

23:57

by one celebrities are starting soon.

24:00

to be styled by Armani, they start

24:02

to shop at the Armani store, and

24:04

it was directly, again, impacting sales.

24:07

And then a light bulb went on. Every

24:09

designer said, we're not going to let

24:12

Armani, like, have this to himself. So

24:14

they all decided that they needed to

24:16

get into the game. And

24:18

so all these designers start inviting

24:21

celebrities into their VIP rooms, inviting

24:23

them to their salons, inviting them

24:25

into their boutiques for a glass

24:27

of champagne. And increasingly,

24:30

celebrities are going because they

24:32

need more and more clothes. We're

24:35

at the beginning of this period where you're starting to

24:37

have this whole explosion of media,

24:40

MTV, InStyle magazine.

24:43

You saw celebrities in full length shots. You

24:45

saw them on the town. You saw

24:47

them behind the velvet rope at movie

24:49

premieres. You saw them inside their fabulous

24:51

homes. And of

24:53

course, at the award shows. There is

24:56

no better way to bring in the new year than

24:58

with a huge, glimmerous award show

25:00

like the 54th annual Golden Globes. And

25:02

hello, everybody. I am Joan Rivers, and

25:04

we are live. Okay, Melissa, who have

25:07

you got there now? Mom, I am

25:09

here with Kelsey Grammer, one of my

25:11

favorites. By the late 90s, the

25:13

red carpet is being televised. It's become as

25:15

big as the awards themselves. Because

25:18

we changed it. We turned walking

25:21

into a building into an event.

25:23

So we actually got to talk to

25:25

Melissa Rivers, as in Joan

25:27

Rivers' daughter. She and

25:29

her mom were both red carpet hosts.

25:31

They were there talking to

25:34

celebrities about what designers they were

25:36

wearing. You are so beautiful.

25:38

Who are you wearing? Ah, Almani. Almani.

25:40

Who are you wearing? I'm wearing Alberta forever.

25:43

Who are you wearing? Paul Smith. Who

25:45

are you wearing and who are you wearing? And by

25:47

the way, and who are you wearing was asked out

25:49

of desperation. We

25:52

were live, and my mom, she didn't know

25:54

what to ask somebody. She was

25:56

like, fuck, what am I going to say? And

25:58

we're live, and I run out of anything. to

26:00

talk to this person about and they were in

26:03

a beautiful dress. So she said, instead

26:05

of what are you wearing, she said, who

26:07

are you wearing? And

26:09

that's how that started. So now

26:11

we are solidly in the who

26:13

are you wearing era and celebrities

26:15

and designers are fully interwoven. Every

26:18

outfit is being scrutinized. Everyone knows

26:20

who's wearing what, who designed what

26:22

and if it didn't look good,

26:25

Joan and Melissa would be there to call you

26:27

out on it. They wouldn't

26:29

let you know. Cameron Diaz and she

26:31

was in Dior by John Gagliana. It

26:33

looks like she was dressed by Martha

26:36

Stewart's towel department. I think

26:38

this is more effective than an IUD.

26:40

I think this dress is fashion first

26:43

control. Red dress, looks like a

26:45

blood clot. Good to wear on like heavy

26:47

flow days, you know. That's like an

26:49

Alba Valentino Oats Couture. She looks like

26:52

an Atlantic City hooker who got a

26:54

sewing machine for one of her johns

26:56

and no lessons. People

27:00

could say, how could you say that? And it's

27:03

so mean. And my mother used to always say,

27:05

we're not saying anything different than

27:07

what everyone's saying next to each other on the

27:10

couch. Anyone who denies

27:12

that they judge what the

27:14

people are wearing is a

27:16

big liar. Okay, so

27:19

like we have a lot, a lot of

27:21

events. And we have like, a

27:23

lot of people like Joan and Melissa who

27:25

are out there ready to shark bite you

27:27

for every single thing that you wear. Yeah, the

27:29

fashion police are patrolling. And if

27:31

you're an actor, this really matters.

27:34

You don't want to be the butt of

27:36

a joke. But now it's not so simple to

27:38

just sign on to be in the warm embrace

27:40

of Armani. Now, a

27:43

bunch of other designers have like caught on to

27:45

what Armani is doing, and everybody's imitating him.

27:47

Other people are reaching out to celebrities and they're

27:49

like, Oh, let us dress you let us dress

27:51

you let us dress you. And so now they're

27:53

like, so many more choices to be made. The

27:56

business got so huge. And there's so many brands

27:58

and so many options and so many Collections

28:00

that it became a full time job to keep

28:02

up with. I mean this when they're working women

28:04

they don't have time to go out and go

28:06

to the shows and see everything and cultural. The

28:08

look books and make sure it's the right size.

28:10

If is not right size get the taylor they

28:12

are get a fix. Yeah it is. That is

28:14

either that it's an end. it's a full time

28:16

jobs will stay a higher the person to do

28:18

it. Because it's a full time job. Okay

28:22

Miller I know it sounds like this

28:24

is the end and were like that

28:26

I have a Silas Was Born. Roll

28:28

credits yeah but but it will take

28:30

a little bit longer for the stylist.

28:33

You'd become the glamorous for we

28:35

think of it as. High

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30:19

All. right? So we are. Now in the

30:21

era of the silas. Kind.

30:23

Of low key behind the scenes

30:26

celebrities have started asking. Other people

30:28

to shop for them, address them and look where

30:30

these he bought. Humming sound. A

30:32

lot of them are actually coming from

30:34

magazines because for photo. Shoots: You need

30:37

someone to like pull all the clothes from

30:39

all the designer so rooms and put them

30:41

on the celebrity And that's honestly how a

30:43

lot of celebrities and stylus met in a

30:45

they'd like style someone for a photo shoot

30:47

and in the celebrity. Would turn to them in be

30:49

like hey I like this look you've made. A

30:51

can you do this for me all the time? What?

30:54

Look this is the same Any

30:56

celebrity who somebody of know. For.

30:58

Them to walk a mean: going

31:01

to the restaurant with a celebrity

31:03

is a two to three hour

31:05

endeavor because they're. Going to be

31:07

stopped ten times herself. See this is

31:10

my friends in Yang. See has worked

31:12

as a stylist for a long time

31:14

to. Try on and get clothing

31:16

it it's just not an easy

31:19

thing for them to do because

31:21

you go into a store, you

31:23

are photographed, you are being trapped,

31:25

and. Because. You

31:27

now have to do press

31:29

tours in ten cities a

31:31

it. Is. A outrageous amount

31:34

of looks, It's

31:36

daunting. Game. Started

31:38

in magazines and. She's been in

31:40

the business since she styled Kiyani Reeves

31:43

for a press suit in the nineteen

31:45

nineties and then developed a very. Impressive

31:47

roster including as she

31:50

says, Five Batman, George

31:52

Clooney, Michael. Keaton, Ben

31:54

Affleck, Three Spiderman, Tom Holland,

31:57

Toby Maguire, and And Who

31:59

Got. field, Robert Gandy

32:01

Jr., yeah, a lot of other super

32:03

people. And it's amazing she can just

32:05

openly say that she styles these

32:07

people, because at first this

32:10

was like a dirty secret. Like

32:12

no star was supposed to admit

32:14

that someone dresses them. It

32:16

was like supposed to be like an innate

32:18

skill they had. Like they were glamorous, they're

32:20

fashionable, they don't need help. These are stylish

32:22

people, exactly. But then some

32:25

stylists started to emerge out of the

32:27

shadows and take pride in it. The

32:30

most notable example of this was Rachel Zoe.

32:32

She had this very distinct look. And I'll

32:34

tell you some of her clients and you'll

32:36

summon the look immediately. It was like Lindsay

32:39

Lohan, Nicole Richie, Paris

32:42

Hilton, like every boho

32:44

chic, it girl of the

32:46

early aughts. And Rachel Zoe

32:48

became a celebrity to the point where she even

32:50

got her own TV show. I'm Rachel

32:52

Zoe and I'm a stylist. I

32:54

find the dresses, the jewelry, and then

32:57

I put it all together and create

32:59

the ultimate red carpet moment. And

33:01

this like brings us back to where

33:03

we started with Zendaya and Laura. Yes,

33:05

exactly, the stylist as a celebrity. His

33:07

job is to carefully craft the visual

33:09

image of his clients and

33:11

his career is exploding as

33:13

a result. So there's the

33:16

glamor of being a celebrity stylist,

33:18

but then there's also the job itself.

33:20

And I was curious about what that actually

33:23

is. So I asked Jean Yang, there's

33:25

so many things involved in the

33:27

practicalities of dealing with this job

33:30

that people have no concept of.

33:33

It's a business. If you think

33:35

it's just about style, you

33:38

are sorely mistaken. Like what are the actual, what do

33:40

you think you spend most of the time doing? I'd

33:42

say three quarters of the job is schlepping.

33:46

It is, it's schlepping. So just

33:48

like starting from the beginning, let's

33:52

say celebrity reaches out to you. So it's

33:54

like, hey Jean, I'd really like to work with you.

33:57

What happens then? So typically it's

33:59

actually a... publicist who will reach out

34:01

to you and will say,

34:03

look, this person has this going on.

34:06

I would go online and I would research

34:08

everything that that person had ever worn. And

34:11

I would see what worked, what didn't

34:13

work. Most of the people I

34:15

work with are very busy. They only want me

34:17

to bring the things that I think would be

34:19

right for them. And Jean told

34:21

me that going to showrooms and pulling options that would

34:24

be right for them is really

34:26

not as easy as it sounds.

34:28

People just think we go into showrooms and have

34:30

clothing and we can get anything. It's like, no. What

34:33

you typically do is you have to have

34:35

the showroom say, okay, it's for

34:37

so and so, sure, no problem. Of

34:39

the five things I've pulled, I'll say, oh, we're

34:41

so sorry, we only want this for red

34:44

carpet. Oh, this is only for award show.

34:46

And then you maybe only get two of those items.

34:50

Sometimes you beg and say, oh, please, I promise you,

34:52

this will be a big moment. Here,

34:54

please. If it would please the court. And

34:57

then there's an additional step because her clients

34:59

actually, they have to like it themselves. Yeah,

35:02

I asked about that. Well, I wonder

35:04

how you kind of get to that point of discovering

35:06

what they want. It is done in

35:08

a very baby step manner. Maybe

35:10

a guy has always been

35:12

wearing a pair of trainers

35:15

and track pants and a t-shirt

35:17

and they wanna up their look. Well, you

35:19

can't immediately jump into a gorgeous,

35:22

wrap around Jojian peach suit.

35:25

It is really talking and finding out what

35:27

they want and then trying it on and

35:30

then looking at the eyes, looking

35:32

at the corners of their mouths. Are

35:35

they feeling comfortable? But when

35:37

I look at the

35:39

client, as a stylist, it's

35:41

your job to see what looks good

35:44

and to feel if they're gonna feel comfortable

35:47

in front of a hundred cameras. And

35:49

they're not just in front of cameras during award season,

35:51

it's constant. Yeah, totally. And when

35:53

celebrities are going on a multi-city

35:56

press tour, Jojian's job

35:59

is literally. To pack their bags

36:01

for them. I'm like okay what you're

36:03

going to be in the middle of Russia

36:05

or you're going to be in the middle

36:07

of Ireland for this. For me I can

36:09

be negative twenty so I'd really recommend that

36:11

we do this coat and with this like

36:13

you have to have all that already have

36:15

to look at the weather yep weather and

36:17

you have to sit there and co lucky

36:19

needs Sox shoes Broz cufflinks. I would literally

36:21

have a check office for my assistance when

36:23

we're packing. It was like with the seems

36:25

opened with a the white stitches take that

36:27

taken out of the jacket to we have

36:29

the pocket. Open for the pocket square is

36:31

there double. Stick tape is there, Cufflinks

36:33

is their socks for each outfits. It

36:35

sounds like such a. Difficult.

36:38

Stressful job.

36:41

Was. It actually fun. Oh

36:43

look at it is fine but it's.

36:46

Like a meal. When. You

36:48

get to have that delicious meal

36:50

if you don't realize that there

36:52

were hours and hours upon preparation

36:54

from the person who. Killed.

36:57

The soil. To. The sous

36:59

chef and the press people who

37:01

put that together then. You.

37:04

Don't begin to even. Comprehend.

37:06

What is involved in that beautiful outfit on

37:09

the red carpet? Now. What's

37:11

going on behind the scenes on the

37:13

red carpet outfits is so leveled up.

37:16

There. A lot of paperwork now behind

37:18

the scenes. So many celebrities are

37:20

being paid like. Anywhere, From

37:23

two hundred fifty thousand to millions

37:25

of dollars to wear the clothes

37:27

on the red carpet Stars have

37:29

to like. Sign. A

37:32

lot of contracts and get very

37:34

specific about what designer they're wearing,

37:36

how many times they say the

37:38

designers dame, it's all very rigorously

37:40

contracted out and what you're describing

37:42

is like an industry that sort

37:44

of like has grown up and

37:46

become just like a proper business

37:48

says. real money behind at yeah

37:50

right. it functioned and I guess

37:52

was enough for the clothes. Well.

37:55

If. You ask? Melissa Rivers? It's

37:58

boring. That's. The thing. Everybody

38:00

looks the same now. Melissa. Rivers

38:02

as she could never revive the

38:05

Fashion Police. Now because everybody is

38:07

just like. To polished

38:09

people have been looking at

38:11

thousand times better. But. That

38:13

also takes the fun out of our job.

38:16

You. Know you miss these. Celebrities:

38:19

Dressing themselves because that's when you

38:21

got in the state. You

38:23

know a was. So. Much more.

38:26

Fun! Because. People

38:28

would make their own decisions. A

38:32

yeah I'd be like i love this in

38:34

their dislike dogs years saw it in L

38:36

but I feel like you and your mom

38:39

were like the the threats that made people

38:41

get stylus. I mean I will say oh

38:43

my god totally upset over the and I

38:45

run into the stylus. And they

38:47

turn to me. La Raza literally

38:49

said to me. I have my

38:51

career because of you. Or

38:54

did you guys. Sometimes. I wonder

38:57

if we've released the crack it's he

38:59

has known I have it is is

39:01

the legacy get a be? Wow! They

39:03

changed fashion as a business. Or.

39:06

Is it gonna be Oh dear god

39:08

the he he just bought us this

39:10

is I think that yet to be

39:12

seen. I have to say

39:14

the Z makes a very compelling

39:17

defense for the Rise of the

39:19

Stylus Says he says it's not

39:21

that Stylus have made celebrities boring.

39:23

Stylus have made regular people look

39:26

more interesting. Look it. especially men

39:28

swear. To. See an alpha

39:30

male looking guy wearing a pink.

39:32

Sue gives any guy permission to

39:34

wear a cooler full suit. It

39:36

goes without saying that men can

39:39

have. These. Shortened pants with their ankle

39:41

showing. It goes without saying that.

39:43

Lots of men are wearing. Nail

39:46

polish Now, the proliferation

39:48

of color, the proliferation

39:50

of styles. Is.

39:52

Is is all permission that was

39:54

given because his celebrity styling. I'd

39:56

like to think. So. Every what

39:59

do you think of. The last. I

40:01

mean, I do think. Having

40:03

people who know a lot about

40:05

fashion and. Not as like what's

40:07

in and what's hot, but like

40:10

they know a lot of weird

40:12

obscure designers. They know a lot

40:14

of fashion history by like having

40:17

these people on hand dressing celebrities.

40:19

I think it makes the conversation

40:21

around clothing way more intellectual an

40:24

interesting. I mean like the example

40:26

of law routes, dressings and air

40:28

in that like vintage. Term ugly

40:30

or peace. And the

40:32

Mets like a old archival piece of

40:35

couture that should be in a museum

40:37

and. He brought that to the red

40:39

carpet and people get to like. Learn about

40:41

Fasten history in that way. So it's

40:43

like elevated the conversation around clothing in

40:45

this way that I of course lot.

40:48

Of snow ice. I see that. I

40:50

think that there's like a little bit. Of a trade

40:52

off because I also through

40:54

recognize the kind of claustrophobic

40:56

peacefulness that Melissa Rivers was

40:58

talking about was yeah, everyone

41:01

looks pretty good. It's

41:03

almost like the floor has been raised and

41:05

I think that glad to be expected like

41:07

litter profession has. Been professionalize.

41:09

You're gonna see. More competence are

41:11

going to see more polished and you

41:13

might lose a little. Something and and

41:15

wacky nasty now and like gives us Alice

41:17

is bad, you may be. it's pretty bland.

41:20

Yeah. But. Conversely,

41:22

if the stylist is good thing you

41:24

do get some watching as you do

41:26

get some risk. you know a good

41:28

fastened doesn't mean boring person know that?

41:31

That is totally true. And I think

41:33

also we've learned like a viewer and

41:35

I'll bet that everyone hates now at

41:38

least. This

41:49

is decoder ring. I will have Haskins if

41:51

you have any cultural mysteries he wants to

41:53

decode. Please email us at decoder

41:56

ring at Sleep South Com. This

41:58

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42:01

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42:05

John is executive producer. Merrick Jacob is senior technical director. You

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