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0:01
Welcome to Stuff You Missed in History Class,
0:03
A production of iHeartRadio.
0:11
Hello, and welcome to the podcast. I'm Holly
0:14
Frye and I'm Tracy V. Wilson.
0:16
Tracy, did you know that I'm kind of obsessed with popcorn?
0:19
No? I did not know this. I love popcorn.
0:21
I love it too, like I love love
0:23
it. We talked about it behind the scenes. Yeah,
0:25
let's do I you
0:28
know, late lately, on and off
0:30
the last couple of years, I've been looking at whether
0:32
or not I should buy a glazing
0:34
machine to do like, oh
0:36
fancy one theme park style popcorn
0:39
fun. I always back off
0:41
of it and in a moment of like, you don't
0:43
need that. Part of it is because there's
0:45
only one person in my house that eats popcorn.
0:48
But the bottom line is that this and
0:50
a couple other things have made me think about like popcorn.
0:55
And we'll talk about it in the course of the episode.
0:57
But a lot of like what we know about popcorn
1:00
words, early phases, or
1:02
what gets repeated, a lot is flat
1:04
out false, right, so, at
1:06
least in modern culture. So I thought it would be
1:09
fun to pick apart popcorn through
1:11
the ages, because it goes
1:13
back very far but was not
1:15
necessarily as prevalent in place as we have been
1:17
told it was. And
1:19
then we'll talk about how it has
1:21
become a huge industry. Yeah.
1:24
I had not thought about the economics of why it
1:26
is such a profit industry, but
1:30
now I have, so we'll talk about all of that today.
1:32
Yeah. So the use of the word
1:35
corn in historical contexts,
1:37
at least some of the time, it can be a little
1:40
deceiving because corn
1:42
is a word that has historically been used
1:45
more generally to describe
1:47
all kinds of grain crops.
1:50
So today corn,
1:54
I want to say the big lump with knobs, but
1:56
that's from so long ago on the Internet,
1:58
it's already a very dated reference, just
2:02
the thing you know with ears. But
2:05
corn in translation of
2:07
the Bible, as having been in Egypt,
2:10
that was probably barley. Similarly,
2:13
in Britain, the word corn has been used
2:15
to refer to crops that could include both
2:17
wheat and oats. So if
2:19
you're reading really old historical documents
2:21
and there's a reference to corn, it
2:24
might not mean the relative
2:27
of grass specifically that
2:29
we call corn today. Yes,
2:31
because corn is grass. Corn is
2:33
grass. As for another reference
2:36
that cuts a
2:38
little deep, but it's fine. I feel
2:40
like many of our listeners will get it. The corn that
2:42
we think of today using
2:44
that word is a native plant species
2:47
to the Americas that, as
2:49
Tracy said, related to grass and popping
2:51
corn is a specific type of
2:53
maize, which is different from the corn you would
2:55
eat, of course, as corn on the cob or
2:57
in corn dishes where you eat the intact
3:01
popping corn has a husk that is four
3:03
times thicker than those other varieties,
3:05
and popcorn predates
3:07
the other corn types, although they are all
3:10
the same species, so you could
3:12
have flour corn, podcorn, sweetcorn,
3:15
dent corn, and flint corn. They're all
3:17
very close genetic matches to popcorn,
3:20
but slightly different that were developed over
3:23
time as crops for their
3:25
edibility, and according to
3:27
Andrew Smith in his nineteen ninety nine book
3:29
Popped Culture quote, by the time
3:31
Europeans encountered the New World in the
3:33
late fifteenth century, maze
3:35
was already a domesticated plant that did
3:38
not grow in the wild. Without human
3:40
cultivation, maze did not survive
3:43
yees. So, just to recap maze
3:46
one of the many many plants
3:50
native to the Americas cultivated
3:53
by indigenous people now enjoyed world
3:55
worldwide. Yes, the
3:57
science of how corn pops
4:00
really pretty simple. That thick wall
4:02
of the kernel encases a little pocket
4:04
of starch and moisture, and
4:07
when the corn is heated up, that moisture
4:09
inside causes the starch to liquefy.
4:12
Just as boiling water expands, so
4:14
does that liquefied starch, and it gets
4:17
that builds up enough pressure to break that
4:19
outer shell, rapidly expanding
4:22
and re solidifying into the fluffy
4:24
white popcorn that we're familiar with today.
4:28
When popcorn is grown, every
4:30
step of the process is designed to ensure
4:33
that you get that fluffy, popped
4:35
finish. It is cured on
4:37
the stalk and then dried until
4:40
it reaches fourteen percent moisture
4:43
for a long time. The oldest example
4:45
of popcorn ever found was estimated
4:48
to be four thousand years old. And
4:50
these are small ears that were found
4:52
in the bat cave of Carlsbad Caverns
4:54
in New Mexico in the late nineteen forties
4:57
and early nineteen fifties. And we
4:59
say these are small ears,
5:01
we're talking about two inches long as the largest
5:03
of the collected specimens. The smallest
5:05
was reported as smaller than a penny, even
5:08
today, if you grow popcorn, those
5:10
ears are smaller than the other
5:13
kinds of corn we've talked about, but not quite
5:15
this tiny, So in any
5:17
case, very dissimilar from the ears of
5:19
corn that you might see today. But then in
5:21
twenty ten, far older
5:23
samples of popcorn were found in Peru,
5:26
and these were dated to six thy seven
5:28
hundred years ago, and they're really interesting
5:30
because in that case the popcorn
5:33
appears to have been popped while still
5:35
on the cob, not from separated
5:37
kernels. Delores Piperno,
5:40
who at the time was Curator of
5:42
New World Archaeology at the National
5:45
Museum of Natural History in Washington,
5:47
d C. Co authored a
5:49
paper on these samples that was published
5:51
in twenty twelve. It was titled
5:54
pre Ceramic Maize from Paradonis
5:56
and Juacapria to Peru. One
5:59
in interesting conclusion in this paper was
6:01
the statement quote, given
6:04
the scarcity and discontinuous
6:06
stratigraphic presence of maize
6:09
macro fossils and microfossils
6:11
at Paradonis and Juaca Prieta
6:14
and at other pre ceramic sites in the region,
6:16
we infer that this crop, both
6:19
its popcorn and flowery forms,
6:22
was not a primary food staple in the
6:24
local diet before about
6:26
forty five hundred to forty two hundred
6:29
CALBP. So, just in case folks
6:31
aren't familiar with that terminology, BP
6:33
is before the present and calb P
6:36
is calibrated before the present.
6:39
Yeah, that's a
6:42
type of year dating that you'll
6:44
see used in a lot of archaeological papers.
6:47
But although popcorn wasn't, according
6:49
to that paper, a particularly major part
6:51
of the agriculture of Peru, it is
6:53
now believed that popcorn was being actively
6:56
cultivated by people of the Americas
6:58
in other places as far back as
7:00
nine thousand years ago. Paperno
7:03
gave a statement in the press when this whole
7:06
article was published and became very
7:08
popular for a minute, that it was cultivated
7:10
from a wild grass known as tiacinde.
7:13
People that couldn't grow it likely traded
7:16
for it. This earlier version of
7:18
popcorn was also likely closer
7:20
to what's called parched corn today, so
7:22
in some cases it wasn't popping
7:24
exactly, but it was being used in
7:26
a way that it was dry heated, so it would
7:28
puff up slightly and become like a crunchy
7:31
thing. The Aztec culture
7:33
is often invoked in popcorn
7:35
discussion and for good reason. Popcorn
7:38
was used as food and also
7:40
as part of ceremonial practices. When
7:42
conquistador Hernan Cortes first
7:45
came in contact with the Aztecs, which
7:47
as we know, would ultimately lead
7:49
to the culture's destruction, he
7:52
became the first European to see
7:54
popcorn and noted its use
7:56
for eating, as well as being strung
7:58
on garlands that were used as jewelry
8:00
and headdresses and as decoration. The
8:03
automatopoetic word used
8:05
by the Aztecs to represent the
8:07
sound of the corn popping was
8:10
totapoka. Popcorn
8:12
was also closely associated with the Aztec
8:14
ring god Toscato. A Franciscan
8:17
friar named Bernardino de Sahagun,
8:19
who traveled to the Americas in the fifteen twenties
8:21
to convert the indigenous people there, wrote
8:24
of popcorn quote, they scattered parched
8:26
corn called momahito, a kind
8:28
of corn which bursts when parched and discloses
8:31
its contents and makes itself look
8:33
like a very white flower. They
8:35
said these were hailstones given to the god
8:37
of water. Now that's an interesting
8:39
quote because some translations of Sahagun's
8:42
words in this passage omit that
8:44
whole reference to the god of water, so it's
8:46
not sure if a translator added it later.
8:49
Some translations described the corn
8:51
grains instead as simply being like scattered
8:53
dice, and there's no mention of a deity. Sahagoon
8:57
made the effort to learn and understand the Nahua
8:59
language that he encountered, and to work
9:01
with members of the Aztec culture and gathering
9:03
information for his book General
9:05
History of the Things of New Spain. Jesuit
9:09
missionary Bernabe Cobo, who visited
9:11
Peru in the early sixteen hundreds,
9:13
also wrote of the practice of eating
9:16
popcorn there. Quote, they toast
9:18
a certain kind of corn until it bursts.
9:21
That corn, which was used in confection,
9:24
was called pisancaia. The
9:26
Spanish naturalist Felipe de Azara
9:29
described a grain he encountered in the Americas
9:31
in the late seventeen hundreds this way. Quote
9:34
it is boiled in fat or oil, the
9:36
grains burst without becoming detached,
9:39
and their results of superb bouquet, fit
9:41
to adorn a lady's hair at night without
9:43
anyone knowing what it was. I have
9:45
often eaten these burst grains and
9:47
found them very good. So
9:49
that's obviously an example of them being
9:52
popped on the cob. One of the reasons
9:54
that popcorn became a staple in so many
9:57
American cultures over time is its longevity.
10:00
Unpopped kernels or dried cobs of
10:02
them keep for a very very
10:04
long time, so they can travel and
10:06
store really easily. As
10:08
evidence of that longevity, botanist
10:11
Thomas Harper good Speed, founder
10:13
of the Botanical Gardens at University of California,
10:16
was given a gift by a colleague from Chile
10:18
in the late nineteen thirties. It was
10:20
pre Inca popcorn, and
10:23
good Speed's curiosity about them eventually
10:25
got the better of him, and he tried popping
10:28
them. In nineteen forty one, he published
10:30
a book titled Plant Hunters in the Andes,
10:32
and he shared the results, writing quote,
10:35
one evening at home in Berkeley, it
10:37
occurred to me to try an experiment with my
10:39
kernels of pre inca popcorn.
10:41
I placed a few on a pie tin and heated
10:44
them on the electric stove. Much
10:46
to my surprise, that corn, which had been
10:48
gathered nearly a thousand years ago,
10:51
popped as readily as did last year's
10:53
crop that had come in a box from the shelves
10:55
of the neighborhood cash and carry store. I'm
10:58
curious how he knew that it was pre
11:00
inca popcorn, right, he's taking
11:03
that that person's word for it
11:05
is yeah, okay, okay, that's
11:09
I had questions. And
11:12
of course these travelers from Europe
11:14
brought maize back home with them. Spain
11:17
and Italy were the first places it was introduced,
11:19
and then it made its way to Turkey. But for
11:21
a long time it was used to feed animals
11:24
and not humans. There were very
11:26
few instances of anyone in Europe
11:28
trying to pop it. When it got
11:30
to Asia, also through Spanish colonists,
11:33
it was adopted more readily as a food for
11:35
people, including in its popped
11:37
form. Yeah. I saw one mention of
11:40
like this one place in Romania that
11:42
there may be evidence that it had been popped
11:44
at one point. And of course, obviously
11:46
people eventually did adopt
11:50
maize and maize products
11:52
into their stuff. That's why we have things like polenta,
11:54
but not really
11:56
into it initially. While you have probably
11:58
heard that popcorn was served at the
12:00
first Thanksgiving in Plymouth Colony as
12:03
belooney, there is no evidence to support that claim.
12:06
There's a lot about the first thanksgiving
12:09
story that there are, and
12:12
specifically the idea of indigenous
12:16
people giving colonists popcorn
12:19
comes up in so much literature that
12:22
book I mentioned just a moment ago. It
12:26
goes through like this long list from like
12:28
everyone from like Jane Adams writing about
12:31
it to I think Thau at one point, like all
12:33
of these people that perpetuated this myth
12:35
and made it part of that like kind
12:37
of fuzzy, more lovable
12:39
story of how those
12:42
encounters worked. And it's like
12:44
there's there's literally nothing to support,
12:50
but there was some mention of
12:52
popcorn from colonists in
12:54
the mid sixteen hundreds. John Winthrop
12:57
Junior made a report to the Royal Society
12:59
of London in sixteen sixty two
13:01
that included popping corn
13:03
in his description of the ways that Native Americans
13:06
used maize, noting that they seemed
13:08
to turn inside out and become flower
13:10
like, but he also described the
13:12
resulting puffs not being eaten as
13:14
they were the way we think of popcorn, but
13:17
being ground after that or beaten
13:19
into a meal. One hundred
13:21
years later, Ben Franklin described a similar
13:23
process, with the popping being done in a
13:25
large iron pot with sand and
13:28
then the sand being sifted off before the
13:30
pounding into the meal step. But
13:32
popcorn among the indigenous people of the East
13:34
coast of North America doesn't
13:37
really appear to have been a very
13:39
big thing. It was more work to
13:41
grow and harder to use than other forms
13:44
of maize, so it kind of seems like it really
13:46
didn't get a lot of favor. Coming
13:48
up, we'll talk about reasons. It's tricky
13:50
to figure out exactly how popcorn
13:52
got a start in the United States
13:55
as a nation different from
13:58
the Americas as a region. We'll
14:00
take a quick sponsor break before we get
14:02
to that. Because
14:13
popcorn is inexpensive and
14:15
as we've said, long lasting, it became
14:17
somewhat of a novelty to a lot of folks
14:20
in the early United States once it
14:22
had formed as a country, although there isn't
14:24
actually a mention of actual
14:26
popcorn in writing until the eighteen thirties,
14:29
when it was mentioned in a periodical called
14:31
Cultivator, which was geared towards farmers.
14:34
According to Andrew Smith in pop Culture,
14:36
it's possible that in terms of European
14:38
descendant inhabitants of the US and the eighteen
14:41
hundreds, the practice of popping
14:43
corn might have even come from Africa.
14:46
As maze made its way across Europe in
14:48
the fifteen hundreds, it also moved south
14:50
into Africa, but this is purely
14:52
a theory. The way maze spread,
14:54
which was in some cases tied to the slave
14:57
trade, makes it actually pretty hard
14:59
to know who actually had
15:01
it and who brought the concept of popcorn
15:03
into the culture of the US. And
15:05
of course there was popcorn in South
15:07
America well before any of this, so
15:10
it may have just moved north. But there's
15:12
no real chain of evidence to clearly
15:14
identify how white men started
15:16
popping popcorn rather than parching
15:19
and grinding it. The ways
15:21
people popped popcorn in its early
15:23
adoption in the United States could vary
15:25
a lot. Some sound
15:27
kind of arduous. There was a way
15:30
similar to how it would be done today
15:32
by a lot of folks using
15:34
fat or oil in a kettle. Another
15:37
method was to toss kernels of
15:39
popping corn into the hot ashes
15:42
from a fire and then all
15:44
that give that kind of a stir to get
15:46
the kernels to pop pop. That meant
15:49
that you had to get the
15:52
popped kernels out
15:54
from the ash to eat it. And I'm
15:56
just not seeing how you don't wind
15:58
up with a mouthful of ash. Yeah, that's
16:00
a hard pass for me. Another
16:03
approach was a wire box method,
16:05
where kernels could be placed in a wire
16:07
container that was held over a fire, though
16:11
it may have taken a while to catch on.
16:13
Once popcorn was introduced to the
16:15
US in its fluffy form, it
16:17
kind of became a fad. Just a
16:19
decade after that reference and cultivator,
16:22
the word popcorn appeared in Bartlett's
16:24
Dictionary of Americanism, so over
16:26
a ten year period it had gotten really really
16:29
popular. Soon holidays
16:31
celebrated in the US started to have popcorn
16:34
associated with them, and kind
16:36
of all holidays, right, like we sometimes
16:38
think of popcorn garlands for Christmas. I don't think
16:40
a lot of people do that, but some still do, or
16:43
like popcorn balls at Halloween. But it also
16:45
became part of Easter traditions, just
16:48
popcorn, not in its candied forms Halloween
16:50
traditions, and this eventually
16:52
led to the development of the popcorn ball
16:54
that I just mentioned. So a mass of popcorn
16:57
held together by a sugarcoating not
17:00
only eaten as a treat, but they were also used
17:02
as decor. In some cases, you could even
17:04
buy molds and gadgets that would help
17:06
shape candy coated popcorn
17:09
into decorative shapes, so you could make a little
17:11
ornament by this. By the eighteen
17:13
sixties, popcorn recipes started
17:15
appearing in cookbooks. They often
17:17
included ways to make sweet treats or desserts
17:20
with it. It wasn't so much savory
17:22
stuff going on at that point. When
17:24
the steel plow was invented in
17:27
the mid eighteen hundreds, that made growing popcorn
17:29
even easier, and the crop became
17:32
even more popular. Became easier
17:34
to cut the stalks which were really
17:36
starty. This is what led to the development
17:39
of the corn belts. It was
17:41
during the latter half of the eighteen hundreds
17:43
that popcorn was also adopted
17:46
by healthy living advocates.
17:48
Dietitian Ella Kellogg, the wife
17:51
of John Harvey Kellogg, used
17:53
popcorn as a breakfast cereal, eating
17:55
it with milk. She thought popcorn
17:57
should be incorporated as a dish at just
18:00
about any meal. At that point,
18:02
popcorn was readily available in
18:04
just about every grocery, and it was also
18:06
routinely sold as a treat at sporting
18:09
events and circuses. In
18:11
eighteen seventy five, Frederick J. Myers
18:14
of Govington, Kentucky, filed a
18:16
patent for a corn popper that enabled
18:18
the user to keep from burning their hand
18:20
the handle of the device stayed cool
18:22
to the touch. His improvement
18:25
in corn poppers didn't involve any kind
18:27
of revolutionary materials or thermodynamic
18:29
tricks. You could just detach the handle
18:31
while the corn was over the heat source and then
18:34
reattach it to pull the poppedcorn out.
18:37
Ten years after Meyer's patent, Charles
18:39
Creeters enters the story, and he's a
18:41
significant figure in popcorn's
18:43
US history. Creators owned
18:46
a candy store, and as he sought to
18:48
expand his offerings, he ordered a
18:50
peanut roaster for his shop so he could
18:52
sell fresh roasted nuts alongside
18:54
his candy. He didn't actually
18:56
like the roaster, though, and started taking
18:59
it apart to see if he could improve on it somehow.
19:02
In the tinkering, Creators expanded
19:04
his vision to invent a new roaster
19:07
instead of just trying to fix the one he purchased
19:09
and didn't like. Around the
19:11
same time, he realized he could design a
19:13
machine that would pop popcorn as
19:16
well as roast peanuts, and that he could
19:18
use it to roast coffee beans. As well.
19:21
He ended up building roasters in a variety
19:23
of sizes to fit different needs. Creators
19:26
used steam to run his machinery, which
19:28
gave consistent power and
19:30
in the case of the popcorn, that meant it would
19:32
heat evenly and produce consistent
19:34
batches of white, fluffy popcorn.
19:37
He popped that in a mixture of lard
19:39
and clarified butter. The steam
19:42
was then used to keep the popped popcorn
19:44
warm. He was able to add seasonings
19:47
before popping, and that would stick to the kernels
19:50
as they exploded. Soon he was
19:52
selling roasting machines to other entrepreneurs
19:55
instead of selling candy. In
19:57
eighteen ninety three, Creators exhibited
19:59
at the World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago.
20:02
Popular Mechanics reported on the popcorn
20:05
machine on wheels that he had on display,
20:07
which was marketed to grocery stores, initially
20:10
as something that they could move in or out of the
20:12
building as proprietors wished. According
20:15
to that write up in Popular Mechanics quote,
20:17
this machine was designed with the idea
20:19
of moving it about to any location
20:21
where the operator would be likely to do a
20:23
good business. The apparatus,
20:25
which is light and strong and weighing, but four
20:28
hundred or five hundred pounds can be
20:30
drawn readily by a boy or by a small
20:32
pony to any picnic ground, fair,
20:34
political rally, etc. And to many
20:36
other places where a good business
20:38
could be done for a day or two. After
20:41
kind of a slow start at the expo where he
20:43
couldn't get people interested, Creators just
20:46
started making bags of popcorn to give away,
20:48
and then that freebee plus
20:50
the smell of popcorn popping, made
20:53
the crowd show up. He eventually
20:55
started selling the popcorn, and he made
20:57
a nice sum over the course of the exposition,
21:00
and the success of his popcorn sales also
21:02
inspired the sales of his mobile popcorn
21:04
machine, which he called the earn More,
21:07
and this launched an entirely new field
21:10
of mobile food vending. While
21:12
people have sold food on foot for
21:14
centuries, We've talked about it so many times,
21:16
this was new in that the food could be prepared
21:19
on the spot wherever the vendor went.
21:22
Other manufacturers of nut roasting machines
21:24
hustled to get in on this new popcorn
21:26
market by making poppers similar
21:28
to creets. The creater's company,
21:31
by the way, still exists today, and
21:33
it still manufactures concession
21:35
equipment of all kinds.
21:37
As Creaters was working on his popping
21:39
machine, commercially produced popcorn
21:42
became available at retail. Up
21:44
until the eighteen eighties, people who made popcorn
21:46
were usually growing their own or
21:48
getting it in places like farmer's markets,
21:51
but in the eighteen eighties the Albert Dickinson
21:53
Company started offering prepackaged
21:56
popcorn with the branding names of Big
21:58
Buster and Little Bust. Similarly,
22:02
other people besides Creators were working
22:04
to innovate in the corn popping arena.
22:07
One of Creeter's employees, C F. Dunbar,
22:10
left the company to start his own popcorn
22:12
machine business, and he invented a
22:14
machine that would pop the popcorn dry
22:16
without any oil and then pass it
22:18
through an automated butter dispenser. The
22:21
first patent for a machine that would coat
22:23
popcorn with a sugar glaze to keep each
22:26
popped kernel fresh was filed by a man
22:28
named James Voods. This machine
22:30
kept those popkernels separate from one another,
22:33
so each one could dry with the coating
22:35
without clumping up into a ball. Frederick
22:38
and Lewis Rookheim of Germany
22:40
developed a hand held popper that gave
22:43
them the capability to flavor each small
22:45
batch however they wished. The Rookheims
22:48
are also responsible for introducing an
22:50
enduring snack brand, which is Crackerjack.
22:53
Crackerjack, in case anybody
22:56
in our listening audience has not had it,
22:58
combines popcorn and peanuts. The
23:00
molasses coating Crackerjack
23:02
was such a huge hit that copycat recipes
23:04
started showing up in cookbooks
23:06
not long after its introduction. Once
23:10
again, because of the low cost, popcorn
23:12
has endured in popularity through various
23:15
economic downturns. During
23:17
the Great Depression, popcorn became one
23:19
of the few treats that families could still
23:21
afford. It was kind of an austerity luxury,
23:24
and it also meant that companies that sold popcorn
23:27
fared better during the Great Depression than other
23:29
industries as popcorn sales
23:31
continued to rise. The
23:33
depression also led to one of the most
23:36
common associations we have with popcorn,
23:38
and that's being a movie theater snack. This
23:41
was a cost effective way for theater
23:43
owners to offer some kind of snack that
23:45
overhead was very low. But
23:47
not all theaters were on board with the popcorn
23:50
boom. Initially, some of them
23:52
feared rightfully as Anybody
23:54
who has ever left a theater at
23:57
the end of a movie has seen that
23:59
it would make messes. Sometimes
24:02
people intentionally make bigger messes with
24:04
it. There had also just been
24:06
a push within the industry to create a luxury
24:09
experience that popcorn and other snacks
24:11
couldn't really match with. But
24:13
it was so popular already as a low
24:15
cost snack that popcorn sellers
24:18
started to pop up adjacent to theaters,
24:20
having moved there from sporting events and carnivals,
24:23
so patrons could buy a bag
24:25
on their way into the theater. Eventually,
24:28
theater owners recognized that they were losing
24:30
a potential revenue stream and started offering
24:33
popcorn in their establishments. In
24:36
many theaters, this began as a rental
24:38
arrangement with the vendors who had once been
24:41
outside, but overtime theaters
24:43
introduced their own snack counters and handled
24:45
their own concessions. And of course most won't
24:47
let you bring a whole bag of popcorn in with you
24:50
unless you're really sly, and then they're still
24:52
take you to do it. But you know, I'm
24:54
not going to comment on that anyway. Another
24:56
world event that further solidified popcorns
24:59
hold on the US the snack market was World
25:01
War II. Sugar was ration
25:03
in World War Two. It was one of the first things to be ration
25:06
The supply lines that the continental US
25:08
got sugar through were the Philippines, Hawaii,
25:11
Puerto Rico, and the US Virgin Islands,
25:14
all of which were theaters of war, so
25:16
those supply lines were essentially cut.
25:19
Additionally, what sugar there was was often
25:21
sent overseas for troops. The
25:24
amount of sugar allowed through rationing was
25:26
half of what most households used on average.
25:29
Because of the sugar shortage, savory
25:31
popcorn once again had a surge of popularity
25:34
as a snack that was readily available and could
25:36
be eaten without sugar. Reportedly,
25:38
popcorn consumption in the US tripled
25:41
in the early nineteen forties. Coming
25:43
up, we'll talk about how the invention of television
25:46
caused popcorn's popularity to dip
25:49
for a little bit. But first we will
25:51
hear from some sponsors that keep the
25:53
show going.
26:04
Okay, we will finally get to an important
26:06
historical moment that actually hurt popcorn
26:08
sales at least for a little while, and
26:11
that's the advent of television. As
26:13
people adopted the new technology at home,
26:16
they made big use of it as an entertainment
26:18
investment, and as a consequence,
26:21
movie theaters saw a drop in ticket
26:23
sales and thus popcorn sales
26:25
also declined at this
26:27
point. In this moment, popcorn was usually,
26:30
though not always, a treat that people
26:32
would eat when they went out. People
26:35
absolutely did continue to make popcorn
26:37
at home, but that was no longer the primary
26:39
way that most popcorn was consumed. But
26:42
that shift to home entertainment brought about
26:44
by the rise of television shifted
26:46
things once again for popcorn two,
26:49
because then after a while, they
26:51
missed that popcorn, and it became more and more
26:53
common again for families to make popcorn
26:55
themselves at home to eat while watching
26:58
TV. Another
27:00
icon of popcorn's popularity
27:02
in the US was Orville Reddenbacker.
27:05
Redenbacker was born in Brazil, Indiana,
27:08
on July sixteenth, nineteen oh seven.
27:10
His parents were corn farmers, and
27:13
Orville grow up to work as a Farm
27:15
Bureau extension agent. After graduating
27:18
from Purdue University with a degree
27:20
in agronomy, he also
27:22
opened his own very successful fertilizer
27:25
company. But popcorn had
27:27
always been his favorite treat, and he had
27:29
dabbled for years with the idea
27:31
of creating a perfect popping corn.
27:35
By their early nineteen seventies, Reddenbacher
27:37
was ready to turn that hobby into a business.
27:40
He had developed a strain of corn that
27:42
he felt was absolutely perfect for popping,
27:45
and he partnered with a man named Charlie Bowman
27:48
to launch a company to sell it. And
27:50
the popcorn was originally named as a portmanteau
27:53
of the two men's names. It was called red bow
27:55
but by the time they started selling it it was
27:58
Orville Reddenbacker Popcorn. To
28:00
name change that he said was based on
28:02
advice from an advertising firm.
28:04
There's a very funny David Letterman clip
28:06
of him explaining this thing if
28:08
you ever want to go hunting for it online. It
28:11
was a very small company to start.
28:13
Orville initially was selling the popcorn
28:15
out of his car, but in
28:18
nineteen seventy two there was a huge
28:20
ad campaign. Orville
28:22
starred in the commercials right alongside
28:24
his popcorn, and soon he became really
28:27
well recognized. Although he was
28:29
so associated with the commercials
28:31
that a lot of people thought he was an actor
28:34
portraying the character of Orvile
28:37
Redbacker, not like actually the man
28:39
that the product was named for. Regardless
28:42
of whether consumers understood the importance
28:45
of the company's commercial spokesman,
28:48
Orville Reddenbacker, popcorn became
28:50
a huge seller. And then
28:52
there was, of course, the microwave
28:55
of it. So the microwave, which
28:57
we talked about before, was the brainchild of
28:59
Percy, who worked for Raytheon
29:01
Manufacturing Corporation, which producer
29:04
reported eighty percent of the magnetrons
29:06
used by the Allied forces in World War
29:08
II. In a meeting
29:10
where the executives of Raytheon were trying
29:12
to come up with ways to keep the company's momentum
29:15
going in peacetime, Spencer
29:17
suggested that magnetrons might
29:19
be used to cook food. Spencer
29:21
was really well respected. His work had
29:23
been what enabled Raytheon to produce magnetrons
29:26
at the scale needed to support the war
29:28
effort, so they took his
29:31
idea to heart and started experimenting with
29:33
food. We've talked before about
29:35
Spencer and that great story about how
29:37
he realized that microwaves could heat food
29:40
when a candy bar in his pocket melted
29:42
while he was working in the lab one day. Building
29:45
on that food lore, popcorn
29:47
didn't just benefit from the transition of
29:49
microwave technology into home use.
29:52
It was also an important part of developing
29:54
it. Percy Spencer used
29:56
popcorn to test what would happen to
29:58
it when it was exposed to the magne tron. After
30:00
this whole melting candy bar incident, he
30:03
said to have ended up with popped kernels flying
30:05
all over the lab. Although
30:07
the development of the microwave began in the nineteen
30:10
forties, it didn't really become widely
30:12
appealing to home consumers for several
30:14
decades. But once that new technology
30:17
was integrated into a lot of people's
30:19
household lives, manufacturers
30:21
sought ways to capitalize on it, and they
30:23
started developing popcorn specifically
30:26
designed for microwave use, and
30:28
microwave popcorn is one of those oddities
30:31
that was embraced by consumers really
30:33
quickly. Microwave popcorn
30:35
got a boost from the huge surge in fitness
30:38
enthusiasm in the nineteen eighties.
30:40
It's a pretty healthy treat. It has a low calorie
30:43
and sodium count, and it offers a lot of fiber.
30:45
So just as more and more households were
30:47
getting microwaves, a large portion
30:50
of those households were interested in popcorn.
30:52
Whether it was just because it's an easy tasty
30:55
treat or because they saw it as
30:57
healthier than other options. I
30:59
will say that sodium number can really
31:01
vary depending well. Popcorn
31:04
on its own right, no, very
31:06
little sodium, very little. But if it's
31:09
covered in salty butter, if with the
31:11
national salt, that changes. In
31:15
a nineteen eighty seven article in The
31:17
New York Times titled microwave key
31:20
to popcorn War, it was noted
31:22
that quote five years ago, microwave popcorn
31:24
did not exist. In nineteen eighty three,
31:27
the first full year that microwave popcorn
31:29
was available nationally, it generated
31:31
retail sales of fifty three million
31:34
dollars according to Packaged Facts,
31:36
a New York based consumer research
31:39
concern. Last year,
31:41
consumers popped and estimated two hundred
31:43
and fifty million dollars worth of the stuff
31:45
according to the Popcorn Institute,
31:48
a Chicago based trade group. Yeah,
31:50
that's huge growth over a five year period.
31:53
That article also noted that Orville
31:55
Reddenbacher, who at that point was the undisputed
31:58
king of home use popcorn brand for more
32:00
than a decade, was suddenly in competition
32:03
with companies like Pillsbury, General
32:05
Mills, and Nabisco, which had all
32:07
launched their own microwave popcorn products.
32:10
The article then quoted then GM
32:12
of General Mills Donald Newtson as
32:14
saying of their microwave popcorn pop
32:16
secret quote, this is easily the
32:19
hottest microwave product General
32:21
Mills has ever introduced. The
32:23
article also mentions cost and that even
32:25
though microwave popcorn costs more than
32:27
twice as much as regular popcorn, consumers
32:30
seemed to be happy to pay that for the convenience.
32:34
But we should note that though Reddenbacher had
32:36
competition, and that was the whole crux of this article,
32:39
that brand, which was owned by the Beatrice
32:41
Company in nineteen eighty seven, had been
32:43
selling microwave popcorn since nineteen
32:45
eighty three, and it was still the leading brand
32:48
on the market when Orbal Reddenbacher
32:50
died in nineteen ninety five, his popcorn
32:52
accounted for forty five percent of
32:54
the market. Citing market
32:57
experts, that article also predicted
32:59
that a few brands would survive and
33:01
thrive, but all other microwave popcorn
33:04
makers would fall away. This
33:07
was way off base given the situation
33:09
at most grocery stores these days,
33:12
where there are dozens of options for
33:14
microwave popcorn and many
33:16
other products. Also
33:20
ay off base was a quote from Deborah
33:22
A. Koom who was manager of popcorn
33:25
popper manufacturer West Bend
33:27
Company. According to her quote,
33:29
microwave popcorn is a fad. It will
33:31
last until people read labels and realize
33:34
what chemicals microwave manufacturers
33:36
put into their popcorn. Microwave
33:39
popcorn did lose some market
33:42
share to pre popped popcorn
33:44
in the early twenty teens, but
33:46
it's still around. It's not a fad. Popcorn
33:50
is, in fact, such an enduring treat that
33:52
it enabled some movie theaters to stay
33:54
afloat even when no movies were showing
33:57
during the early days of the pandemic. Twenty
34:00
twenty three rate up at Sirius Eats, the
34:02
co owner of a theater in Parkridge, Illinois
34:05
named Dave Loomos talked about
34:07
his company's use of popcorn to maintain
34:09
business. He said, quote, we had our doors
34:11
closed and no income coming in. We
34:14
decided to do curb side popcorn pickup
34:16
to see how it would go, and we've been doing that for
34:19
the past couple of weeks and it seems
34:21
like it's well received. That's
34:23
very smart, in my opinion. I think so too.
34:26
Popcorn once again had a huge surge
34:28
when the COVID nineteen pandemic began
34:31
because people wanted to replicate movie
34:33
night at home. Grocery Store
34:35
popcorn sales ROSA reported thirty
34:38
percent. In twenty twenty one, the
34:40
global popcorn market was estimated
34:42
to be worth five point two billion
34:45
dollars. It's expected to
34:47
continue on a growth trajectory
34:49
into twenty thirty. One
34:51
of the largest drivers today is the
34:53
ready to eat popcorn market and
34:55
particularly gourmet flavors
34:58
of pre popped popcorn.
35:01
Oh, popcorn, I love you, mm
35:03
hmmm ah.
35:05
I will talk in behind the scenes on Friday
35:07
about popcorn. Yeah, Ada,
35:10
super will. I'm excited popcorn.
35:14
I have a listener mail from our listener,
35:16
Trenna. tRNA
35:18
writes, Hi, Tracy and Holly. First,
35:20
of course, I am a longtime listener and fan, but
35:22
first time emailer. I love the podcast
35:24
and often listen when I'm driving for a number of
35:27
hours, so I get both episodes and the
35:29
behind the scenes all in one swoop.
35:31
I'm finally writing because it seems that all
35:33
of the stars aligned to compel me to say how
35:36
thankful I am for your podcast. As
35:38
a history major, I loved hearing the behind the
35:40
scenes, so to speak, regarding the famous people
35:42
of our past. So, just after
35:44
listening to your episode on Vinnie Reem, I went
35:46
to Washington, D C. For a friend's birthday.
35:49
I really wanted to see the statue,
35:51
but unfortunately all of the tours
35:53
of the Capitol Building were sold out. Instead,
35:56
I spent many an hour touring all of the monuments
35:59
and tributes include Washington Memorial,
36:01
Lincoln Memorial, World War One and two memorials,
36:03
Korean War Memorial, Vietnam Memorial,
36:06
African American History Museum, which is
36:08
an amazing museum if you've never been. That's my input.
36:11
Harriet Tubman Museum in Cambridge, in many
36:13
more places. My last tour that I
36:15
crammed in that day I was leaving, but I
36:17
could not leave without seeing Arlington. I
36:19
took a two hour walking tour that included
36:22
JFK Memorial and his Brothers
36:24
and Justice Ginsburg, Thurgood Marshall,
36:26
and many more. I was disappointed
36:29
to not see any statue, but our
36:31
tour guide pointed out a grave site and asked
36:33
anyone if they knew who they were. It
36:35
was Jimmy Doolittle and I was like horsehack
36:38
dating myself here because of course I
36:40
listened to the episode. I took a picture
36:42
of the tomb to include in this email, just to send
36:44
you thank you so much for what you do.
36:46
I love listening to the funny parts of the story
36:48
and how you both crack up at the sillier side
36:50
of things. So to that end, my poor
36:53
old kiddy died last year after a very long
36:55
life, so I'm including a picture of another funny
36:57
episode from my past background.
37:00
My husband and I had two dogs who were BFFs
37:02
forever. When the older one, Mac died,
37:05
my poor little miniature Docsin was heartbroken,
37:07
following me everywhere. So I had the bright
37:09
idea of adopting another docs in to
37:11
keep him company. I found a rescue
37:14
on a website and thought she was adorable. We
37:16
went out to meet her with Winston to see
37:18
if they were compatible. They appeared to get
37:20
along well, so I said we will take her, at
37:23
which point the rescue center told me about
37:25
her mother. Apparently the two
37:27
were living in a car with a bunch of other dogs
37:30
and they were all rescued and no one had
37:32
come forward for the mother, who she had been with her
37:34
whole life. Yep, you guessed it. I'm
37:36
a sucker, so I said, give me the mom too. I
37:39
love you for this. Well two weeks later,
37:41
I'm sitting on our sofa and the younger one goes
37:43
crazy, running all over and up and down the stairs,
37:46
pulling down the afghans and blankets, and I
37:48
didn't know what to think about. Thirty minutes
37:50
later, I hear a muling noise.
37:52
I got up to look, and yes, you guessed it, there
37:55
was a puppy on the couch. I called
37:57
to my husband calmly, I'm sure, honey,
38:00
I have a problem. After back and forth
38:02
about yes, really, there is a puppy on our
38:04
couch, he dove in and helped deliver
38:06
the rest of the pups. Of course, it was a Sunday,
38:08
so no vets were open. In the end, we navigated
38:11
the delivery of three puppies within
38:13
two days. One of my best friends came over and
38:15
said how cute the puppies were. Then she looked
38:18
at the mom and said, I'll have one of hers. I
38:20
said she's not pregnant, and my friends said, yes, she
38:22
is. Sure enough. My husband took
38:24
mom to the vet the next day, and four puppies were
38:26
in our future. So long story, short,
38:29
we went from one dog to ten dogs in about
38:31
a month. Here's a picture of my miniature
38:33
docs in with the puppies. Who doesn't
38:35
love a snuggle. Looking forward to seeing you
38:37
in Indianapolis, Trena. One,
38:40
I love you for taking care of all of these
38:43
bibbis. Two, I love you for adopting a
38:45
mom. That's always my thing on Mother's Day. Adopt
38:48
the mom. Animals they don't get taken in the
38:50
puppies and kittens always do and they often sit
38:52
in shelters, So hooray for you. Thank you
38:54
for that. And also I have been at a
38:56
puppy delivery and it's a lot of work, and like
38:58
my hat is off to you, so
39:01
thank you so much for accidentally segueing
39:03
us to being able to talk about our live show in
39:05
Indiana. Yeah're going to be at the Indiana
39:07
Historical Society on July nineteenth,
39:11
so if you would like to see stuff you missed in history Class
39:13
live, it is a seven thirty to
39:15
eight thirty PM show at the Eugene and Maryland
39:18
Glick Indiana History Center. It
39:20
is thirty dollars if you're a member. It's twenty
39:23
dollars if you're only going to the show. There's another
39:25
option for a slightly more expensive ticket
39:27
which also includes a meet and greet, so we
39:29
would love to see you there. If
39:31
you would like to register for this show and come and see us
39:33
in Indianapolis, we would love to see
39:35
you. You can do that at www
39:38
dot indianahistory dot org slash
39:40
events and you'll see it right there,
39:42
and we will be there, and Trent and
39:45
I will hug you for taking
39:47
care of all of those dogs, because
39:49
thank you for doing it. They're so cute. This
39:51
is also the wonderful mystery
39:53
and surprise sometimes of adopting rescue
39:55
animals from shelters. Different
39:57
shelters have different levels of care they're able
39:59
to give before adoption. Sometimes
40:02
you get a surprise. One of my previous
40:05
cats, who is no longer
40:08
with me, was the
40:10
mom and they had found homes for
40:12
all the babies, and then Villain
40:14
l came to live with me for
40:16
the next decade ish.
40:19
More than that, she was a cute little shy
40:21
thing. Yeah, yeah,
40:23
so thank you. If you want to write
40:26
to us about your adventures
40:28
in touring historical sites or with
40:31
animals and surprise puppies, which I'm
40:33
just gazing at this puppy picture, It's like a
40:35
dopamine hit, It's so good, or
40:38
anything else you want to talk about. You can write to
40:40
us at History Podcast at iHeartRadio
40:42
dot com. You can also find us on social
40:44
media as missed in History And if
40:47
you would like to subscribe to the podcast and you haven't,
40:50
you can do that on the iHeartRadio app
40:52
or wherever you listen to your favorite shows.
40:59
Stuffy and History Class is a production of
41:01
iHeartRadio. For more podcasts
41:03
from iHeartRadio, visit the iHeartRadio
41:06
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41:08
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