Episode Transcript
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0:06
It's 1977 and a team of
0:08
archaeologists and scientists is working on
0:10
a dig on the northern tip
0:12
of Labrador, Canada. They are
0:15
way up north. Like if you
0:17
got in a boat and took off
0:19
heading east, eventually you would hit
0:21
Greenland. These
0:23
researchers are studying the geography of the
0:26
area and they're looking for artifacts from
0:28
thousands of years ago, like
0:30
the remains of sod houses and
0:32
old trash piles and burial mounds.
0:36
One day they start digging right on the edge of
0:38
the water. It's really stark
0:40
and beautiful here. The
0:42
water is this deep, deep blue
0:45
and in fact this area is known to some
0:47
of the Inuit people who live nearby as a
0:50
popular fishing spot. There's cliffs
0:52
and mountains that are gray black and
0:54
dotted with snow. But
0:57
at this spot they stumble on something very
1:00
weird. It's
1:03
a group of nine metal drums. They're
1:05
about three feet high, 20 inches
1:07
in diameter, and they are
1:09
heavy. Each one weighs about
1:12
200 pounds. There's
1:14
also two masts, one
1:16
with some sort of instrument on top
1:19
and the other one like a tall
1:21
radio antenna. These
1:24
definitely are not thousands of years old.
1:26
The researchers peer at a painted sign
1:28
on one of the drums. It
1:31
says, Canadian Meteor Service. Hmm,
1:35
that seems straightforward enough. Meteorological
1:38
equipment for some Canadian
1:40
government agency. But
1:43
the problem was these were not
1:45
actually the property of the Canadian
1:47
Meteor Service. And in
1:49
fact, the Canadian Meteor Service didn't
1:52
exist. So
1:56
who put these here? And
1:58
why? I'm
2:02
Amanda McGowan and this is Atlas
2:04
Obscura, a celebration of the world's
2:06
strange, incredible, and wondrous places. Today
2:09
we are tracking down the origins
2:12
of this abandoned weather station, which
2:14
has a name, Weather
2:16
Station Kurt. It
2:18
involves espionage, dog sledding, and a
2:21
war over... Well, we won't
2:23
give that part away just yet. That's
2:26
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Registry, Malta and Ecuador. Remember
4:00
how I said that if you took off from
4:03
the coast of Labrador and headed east you would
4:05
hit Greenland? Let's actually start
4:07
there in Greenland, specifically
4:09
on Greenland's rocky, rugged
4:11
eastern coast in March
4:13
of 1943. Three men are
4:19
on dog sleds gliding over the ice. They're
4:21
part of the Sledge Patrol, a
4:23
group of hunters recruited to patrol
4:26
Greenland's coast. They
4:28
are looking for strangers and because
4:30
this is World War II, that
4:32
means they're looking for Germans. They
4:35
head into a little fjord called
4:37
Sabine Island. There's a very isolated
4:39
hunting cabin here. This area has
4:42
got notoriously bad weather and honestly
4:44
bad hunting too, so they don't
4:46
really expect to see anything, let
4:48
alone anybody. But
4:51
then as they get closer to the
4:53
cabin, their dogs start to get agitated.
4:56
And then on the horizon, is that
4:59
smoke? The
5:01
men burst into the hunting
5:03
cabin and they find sleeping
5:05
bags, freshly killed polar bear
5:07
meat, radio equipment, cups
5:10
of coffee that are half empty, and
5:13
Nazi uniforms. The
5:18
Sledge Patrol had stumbled on what
5:20
was basically a secret intelligence operation.
5:23
These Germans were not technically spies, but
5:26
they were there to collect information that
5:28
was worth its weight in gold. Information
5:31
about the weather.
5:33
Yeah, they were basically
5:35
weathermen. We
5:38
just take it for granted that everyone knows what
5:40
the weather forecast is going to be. This
5:42
is Jeff Nokes. He's the Second World War
5:44
historian at the Canadian War Museum in Ottawa.
5:47
I mean nowadays, just about everybody
5:49
who's listening to this podcast is going
5:51
to have a desktop computer or a
5:53
laptop or a tablet or mobile
5:57
phone, which will then give them
5:59
access to to weather forecasting that's beyond anyone's
6:01
wildest dreams in the 1930s and 1940s. But
6:05
that hasn't always been the case, and in
6:07
wartime, it's the sort of information that's vitally
6:09
important. During
6:12
World War II, weather conditions could
6:14
be the difference between a successful
6:16
operation and a fiasco. For
6:18
example, bad storms could blow aircrafts or
6:21
ships off course. If
6:23
the weather's really bad in and around convoys, it
6:25
may not be possible to provide air support to
6:27
them to help protect them against submarine attacks. Military
6:30
operations were quite literally timed according
6:33
to weather reports. In fact,
6:35
the D-Day invasion of Normandy was actually delayed
6:37
by one day because there were high winds
6:39
in the forecast. To
6:41
give you a sense of how prized weather information was
6:43
at this time, during the war,
6:46
the U.S. Weather Bureau actually stopped broadcasting
6:48
forecasts over the radio because they were
6:50
worried that it would be too easy
6:53
for the enemy to intercept and use
6:55
it for their advantage. But
6:58
overall, the Allies had a key edge
7:00
in the North Atlantic weather war. Yes,
7:02
that is an official term. And
7:05
that edge was geography.
7:07
Weather systems, by and large, in the Northern
7:10
Hemisphere progress from west to east. And
7:13
so because the Allies
7:15
are in the United Kingdom, obviously, and
7:17
they're in Iceland, with
7:20
America, and they have all sorts of ships at
7:22
sea and everything else, they were able to get
7:24
a pretty good handle on what atmospheric conditions are
7:26
and what storms are moving in across the continent,
7:28
for instance, or what storms are moving out across
7:30
the Atlantic. The Nazis were
7:32
left with more limited options. They
7:35
sent out U-boats or submarines to
7:37
collect weather information. But
7:39
that information then had to be broadcasted
7:41
back to Germany by radio. And
7:43
the Allies have a very complex and increasingly
7:46
effective system of direction finding of locating where
7:48
these transmissions are coming from. So that means
7:50
that being a submarine on the surface of
7:53
the Atlantic broadcasting weather conditions can
7:55
get really risky. They could
7:58
establish secret manned weather stations. and
8:00
they did. But as we saw in Greenland, those
8:02
were pretty tough to hide. It's
8:05
incredibly logistically difficult to keep people
8:07
alive because you have
8:09
to keep feeding them and giving them supplies. And when
8:11
you do put people there, they also
8:14
tend to be in installations that
8:16
attract more attention if a plane's flying over.
8:19
So they set about putting together a system
8:21
that was a little more discreet. In
8:29
October of 1943, a
8:31
Nazi U-boat numbered U-537 was bobbing
8:34
its way toward the northern tip
8:36
of Labrador. On the way,
8:38
they encounter some really horrifically bad weather. And
8:40
the weather is so bad that in fact, it
8:42
tears one of the anti-aircraft guns off the submarine.
8:46
Ironically, considering that they're being
8:48
asked to put a weather station in place. Yes,
8:51
this is a top secret weather
8:53
mission. And this is not
8:55
just any old weather station. In
8:57
the hold of this submarine is a
8:59
pretty bizarre machine. It's nine canisters, each
9:02
about three feet tall, and weighing around
9:04
200 pounds. They
9:06
automatically do things like measure wind speed,
9:08
the direction of the wind, temperature, and
9:10
atmospheric pressure. So, the fundamentals. Not
9:13
only did the station collect
9:15
weather information, it also broadcasts
9:17
these measurements automatically by radio
9:19
at regular intervals. The
9:21
key word here is automatic. No
9:24
operator necessary. The
9:27
station is nicknamed Kurt. So
9:33
the idea is that you transport these. You
9:36
put them in place. They run off batteries for months at a
9:38
time. Most of those cylinders are in fact
9:40
batteries. Because you can't go and
9:42
plug Kurt in and recharge Kurt every night the
9:45
way you do with your mobile phone, you
9:48
need a lot of batteries. Getting
9:50
Kurt and his many giant batteries onto dry land
9:52
is the first big challenge. They
9:54
have to haul these out through submarine hatches, or
9:57
from storage cylinders on deck, load them in your bag.
10:00
inflatable rubber boats and bring them ashore and install
10:02
them. And the thing is to do this as
10:04
quickly as possible. And while they're doing this, there's
10:06
some people who are keeping an armed lookout up
10:09
on a nearby hill. Believe it
10:11
or not, they actually took photos of this entire
10:13
process. There's a couple of them with these guys
10:16
looking fairly cold and not
10:18
entirely comfortable with
10:20
machine guns sitting on this hillside, keeping
10:22
an eye on things
10:24
as the installation unfolds. As
10:27
they set up Kurt, they figure that someone is
10:29
eventually going to run across the station. So they
10:31
thought they would try to cover their tracks a
10:33
little bit. So to try
10:35
to tilt the odds in their favor,
10:37
they paint Canadian meteor service on
10:40
the outside of it, which presumably is supposed to be
10:42
meteor, is supposed to be short for meteorological. Then
10:44
they scatter around empty American cigarette packages and
10:46
everything else to try to make it look
10:49
like it had been a group of
10:51
Canadians or Americans who'd been there to install this. And
10:53
so if someone stumbled across it, they might think, oh,
10:56
well, you know, it's just a Canadian weather station. So
11:10
they set Kurt up and run a technical test.
11:13
And it works. Mission accomplished. They
11:15
head back to the sub, do some operational
11:17
missions in the North Atlantic, and then go
11:19
back to Germany. But
11:22
what happens next is a little mysterious. About
11:24
a week after Kurt is installed, an
11:27
Allied plane makes an unusual patrol up
11:29
and down the Labrador coast. It's
11:31
never been fully explained why that happens. They did
11:33
fly periodic patrols, so it could have been coincidental.
11:37
But shortly afterward, back in Germany, where
11:39
they're monitoring Kurt, they're noticing
11:42
interference on the
11:44
same broadcast channels, on the same
11:47
frequencies. And then the
11:49
records are pretty vague and unclear, unfortunately.
11:51
So this is one of these big
11:53
unanswered questions is, you know, were the
11:55
Allies jamming this? Was this accidental interference
11:58
from another German radio broadcast? or
12:00
a German radio signal somewhere. And I've
12:03
never seen a definitive answer. We may never have
12:05
a definitive answer at this distance in time. After
12:12
weather station Kurtz forecast petered out,
12:14
nobody heard from it again. And
12:17
it pretty much dropped out of the history of World
12:19
War II for another 40 years. In
12:22
the meantime, local Inuit people came across it
12:24
while fishing, as did a team of archaeologists
12:26
in 1977, as we
12:28
mentioned at the beginning of the episode. But
12:31
everyone kind of just assumed it was a
12:33
Canadian or American station. Then in
12:35
the early 1980s, a retired German
12:37
engineer named Franz Selinger started digging into
12:40
the history of Nazi weather stations. He
12:42
was writing a book about it. And
12:45
he's digging through records and finds this
12:47
information about one particular station, and it
12:49
doesn't match with anything he's aware of.
12:53
And there are photographs and he's trying to
12:55
figure out, well, which submarine is it? I
12:57
don't recognize the landscape. By
12:59
doing some triangulation with old U-boat log
13:02
books, Franz figured out that the
13:04
station was actually in Canada. Then
13:06
they get in touch with Canadian authorities to
13:09
find out what had happened. And this comes
13:11
as a surprise to the relevant authorities in
13:14
Ottawa at the time. In
13:16
1981, Selinger and the official historian of the
13:18
Canadian Armed Forces made a trip up to
13:21
Labrador to see Kurt for themselves. And
13:24
here was something odd. When they got to
13:26
Kurt, they found that each of the canisters
13:28
had been opened up and everything inside was
13:30
strewn about. All of the
13:32
batteries and radio parts systematically dismantled.
13:35
They also found a single rifle cartridge
13:37
with the inscription, British
13:39
Dominion. So did
13:41
somebody sabotage Kurt on purpose? You'll
13:44
see different accounts. They range from everything from suggestions
13:46
that the Allies may in fact have known or
13:49
figured out that Kurt was there and sent a
13:51
party up to disable it. Although if
13:53
you're going to send people there to cut the cables and disable
13:55
it, you figure you'd recover the whole thing to take a look
13:57
at it. And there's...
13:59
There's also just suggestions that people might
14:02
have cut the cables to salvage the
14:04
materials in the cables as well. But
14:07
the thing is there's just enough detail
14:09
out there that it allows for all sorts of
14:11
speculation, which is one of the reasons why it's
14:14
also so interesting. If we thought that we
14:16
knew all the details, there'd be a lot less
14:18
speculation and conversation than leaving these sort of mysteries
14:21
where people can speculate. Today
14:26
you can visit Weather Station Kurt at the
14:28
Canadian War Museum in Ottawa, which is only
14:30
about 980 miles
14:32
from Kurt's original location in Labrador.
14:35
Jeff says today it is one of the
14:37
most popular artifacts at the museum. And I
14:40
mean, it does have something for everybody. You
14:42
know, technology and radio buffs, secret mission buffs,
14:45
and there's the mystery of how and why
14:47
it stopped working. On
14:49
that note, Jeff says that the installation
14:51
of Weather Station Kurt was the one
14:53
and only time that armed Nazi soldiers
14:56
in uniform landed in North America,
14:59
as far as we know. Our
15:15
podcast is a co-production of Atlas Obscura
15:17
and Stitcher Studios. Our
15:20
production team includes Dylan Thres,
15:22
Doug Baldinger, Chris Naka,
15:24
Camille Stanley, Manolo Morales,
15:26
Vodilaire, Gabby Gladney, Johanna
15:28
Mayer. Our technical director
15:30
is Casey Holford. This
15:33
episode was mixed by Luce Fleming.
15:36
Our theme in end credit music is by Sam
15:38
Tindall. And if you'd like to learn more about
15:40
what you heard today, you can head over to
15:42
our website at atlasobscura.com. There is a
15:44
link in the episode description. I'm
15:46
Amanda McGowan, wishing you all the wonder in the
15:48
world. I'll see you next time. for
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